Thanks for double checking me, and I did look at the V* model, and should have been manual 32 (start with S/N 0M322781), but the torque specs are the same
In post 1 you said it was a 2007 motor, an by looking at your intake, it appears to be aluminum. Manual 25 is 1998 to about 2000 (see S/N above)
Need to set like it it was disassembled. Remove port valve cover an bring the motor around until the 0 mark comes up then drop the distributor in. Either that or drop it in at the 0 mark, and if it backfires, remove and rotate 180 degrees and try again
Your out of time. While its running, rotate the distributor a bit one way or the other until it smooths out. Have a timing light to set timing at 10 BTDC
To set timing you need to take a jumper wire from ground to the Purple/White wire coming from the distributor. Ensure your RPM is at 650
Ok so yesterday I removed the intake and the right side valve cover. I reset the intake and found TDC again. Then installed the distributor and the valve cover. I also replaced the thermostat and today it ran well over an hour with no problems. I think it’s finally fixed.
So here’s what I think happened. Alldodge you can correct me if I’m wrong. The thermostat was stuck at 140 degrees so I had restricted flow into the intake causing the crack. The engine temp sensor activated and shut off the fuel pump because it was too hot causing the carb to run out of fuel.
Don't know what caused the intake to crack, but most time they crack there is from freezing, others have more info
The Temp switch in this pic is to keep power on the TKS module after it warms up, it has no effect on the fuel pump. The oil pressure switch is what keeps power on the pump