2005 350 mag (5.7) smartcraft faults Water pressure + fuel level sender

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alldodge

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More then one sender on a sigal outlet with a Tee will make no difference in the reading. Your readings makes me think the sender works in reverse (low resistance for low, and high resistance for high) then the North American standard. The European standard use the reverse.

So far as the sender, this is a difference between what you all came up with and me. I believe the oil sender is 881879T11 not 8M6000626

If you have analog trim senders, they will not work with smartcraft without a analog to digital converter. I installed a digital to analog converter trying to get it to work the other way, and mine still does not work. Longer story

In short, the digital trim limit/gauge sender is all in one and mounts on only one side of the drive. Smartcraft reads the data and controls both. With SC, as in my case, gauge doesn't work but trim does, but also does not have a limit
 

spunkyman

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From what I'm seeing 881879T11 and 8M600626 are the SAME part ! , or superseded numbers Please see part I purchased has BOTH numbers ! .... Ebay sellers use these numbers interchangably. Most are using the 881879 and 8M600626 as the same part..... all the mercury catalog of parts gives me are the analog sensor/senders - nothing digital ! .... this is an interesting one...
 

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alldodge

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I see what your saying, so guess this needs to go to Merc for a question, either that or muc might know. Item 36 shows 4 entries, 2 for PS cooler water pressure, and 2 for oil 0-100 psi. Both are labeled 36 because only one is shown but used in 2 different locations

Motor SN 0W068236

PS cooler 8818793 and 8M6000623
Oil 881879A6 and 881879T11

When I search for 8M600626 it shows up as a water pressure sender, and as you say so does the T11

sendors.jpg
 

achris

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OIL PRESSURE - make sure you have 3 wires connected and going where they should. If the ground is broken, the output value will indicate a high oil pressure. (see diagrams below)

TRIM - make sure you have the SENDER plugged in, not the limit switch. If it's plugged correctly, then it needs the sender adjusted.

ECM - Can't help much there, but both indicate 350MAG Bravo...

Chris..........

3wire.PNG
sensors.PNG
But if the ground or reference voltage are not present (broken wire, bad contact), then the output will be at the level of the intact wire. If ground is missing, the output will be at reference voltage, if the reference voltage is missing, then the output will be at ground. Also, be aware, sensor grounds are not the same as engine block ground.
 

muc

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SENSOR (0 - 100 PSI)
Item:881879A6
Qty:1
Add to Picklist
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Details
Part Class:0000
Status:SS
Alternate Desc:SENSOR KIT
Pkg Qty:1
US Units
Weight:.156 LBS
Length:3 IN
Width:2.25 IN
Height:1.25 IN
Metric Units
Weight:.071 KG
Length:7.619 CM
Width:5.714 CM
Height:3.175 CM
Discount %:
Qty Level Discount:
EmailPrint
Supersession History
minusTopBottom.gif
iconPart.png
881879T11
minusBottom.gif
iconPart.png
881879011
minusBottom.gif
iconPart.png
881879A6
lineMiddle.gif
iconPart.png
859604A1
minusBottom.gif
iconPart.png
859210T
lineBottom.gif
iconPart.png
859210
 

muc

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The oil pressure sensor is in the cylinder block - (camshaft and crankshaft) group.
 

spunkyman

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ok great !.. I'll check my ground wire on the 3 pin connection... for oil sensor. Seems as though that 881879A6 number is connected to the 8M600626/881879T11 so next step is to check the connecter, I did see some green on one of the conductors.... perhaps that's my problem. At least I have the right part !! y'all have a great weekend ! :lalala:
 

spunkyman

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Hey all ! Back from a brutal winter up here in the great white north !
Last fall, I took my boat to water and while I forgot to refill my power steering reservoir, I didn't have any power to get up on plane. Kind of hesitating, bogged down. Could no power steering fluid actually play a part or is it the timing, that would do that AND is timing set manually or by the ECM? I'm almost there ! hope y'all had a decent off season....
 

alldodge

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Could no power steering fluid actually play a part or is it the timing, that would do that AND is timing set manually or by the ECM?

No, you would just burn up the pump
 

achris

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... or is it the timing, that would do that AND is timing set manually or by the ECM? I'm almost there ! hope y'all had a decent off season....

Timing is completely controller by the ECM. It knows where TDC is, based on the crank sensor, it has an idle advance programmed in, usually 8 or 10 BTDC, and then advances the timing as engine speed increases based on load, atmospheric pressure, air and coolant temperature, etc. Nothing you do to the distributor will change the timing.

As long as the distributor is in the right place (initial setup, see below), then the ECM deals with the rest.

Chris........

dissy.JPG
 

spunkyman

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So, here's a pic of my distributor... it looks to be adjusted properly. I cranked it to line up TDC with he "tick" on the engine. I imagine that proper alignment means the white interior is aligned with the black exterior of the shaft assembly and those red marks just show where the white should be on top of the black housing? So, if this is indeed set up properly, what could be the reason for no power in forward gear? Furthermore, should that plug have something plugged into it (top part of distributor diagram) ? many thx ! happy spring ! See photo...
 

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alldodge

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If the number one cylinder is at TDC, then your distributor is not set correctly

HVS Distributor Timing.jpg
 

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spunkyman

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OK.. i think I was off a wee bit with my TDC. I've readjusted within a 16th" of the ENGINE TICK and my tang sits right at the top of the 2 red lines. Since, there is only one way to put this cap on (or I'd be out by 180*), I feel like this is set properly... agree? OR do I have to take the rotor shaft out and do something there...? Shaft is rusty... maybe that shaft needs replacing? ALSO, there is NOTHING plugged into it from the wiring harness. I'm guessing the guy that put this engine together for me forgot to plug it in?? I don't see anything on my wiring harness that would fit in there that isn't plugged into something else.... please see pics... BUT if it needs to be plugged in, could that be my problem... ?
 

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alldodge

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Don't think your 180 out, but if you are at TDC within a 1/16, then you need to adjust the distributor

Put a scribe mark on the dist and intake before moving, so if you need to put it back where it was
 

muc

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I don’t agree. Your engine has 2 TDC. One is TDC on exhaust stroke and one is TDC on compression stroke. How your distributor cap fits has nothing to do with it.

Some 5.7L ECM555 engines use the cam sensor in the distributor some don’t. I don’t remember any 5.0L ECM555 that used it. I seem to remember that your using a 5.0L wiring harness so your harness might not have that connector. If your ECM needs the cam sensor, it will set a code when you try to start it. But should still start without it.

edit. I don’t agree with the O.P. I wasn’t disagreeing with AllDodge. I haven’t reread this entire post and maybe he saw something that leads him to know the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke.
 
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alldodge

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Your timing is correct so we can set that aside for now.

Need to scan the motor for codes.
Do you hear a beep when you turn the key to ON? (wondering if your warning horn works)
 

spunkyman

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After a few days of rain, I've checked the faults on the TACH, and I'm down to PITOT and FUEL SENDER for errors. My alarm worked last year, but doesn't come on when I turn the key. Is it possible my fuel sender / sensor could limit my power? Not sure what else to do at this point. Boat runs and idles.
 

alldodge

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PITOT and FUEL SENDER
Is it possible my fuel sender / sensor could limit my power?

No, this is of no issue for you, your boat does not have the senders so no issue, just default codes

You should have a water pressure code which would limit your power (from post 1)
 
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