ilove2fixx
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2016
- Messages
- 501
because right after i gapped them last week it wouldn't start . i did have the wires crossed but even after i got them right it wouldn't start.
Yes but understand what all dodge was saying, unless you have an ingition system problem like weak coil bad cap and rotor or bad wires it should start with a .030 or .045” gap. Pull a plug crank and see if you have spark orbecause right after i gapped them last week it wouldn't start . i did have the wires crossed but even after i got them right it wouldn't start.
it is getting gas it ran yesterday for couple seconds very rough though. If the carb adjustments are off will that cause a no start ? when i rebuilt it forgot to do the float measurements. Also will it hurt anything if i crank it to many times ? i try to give it couple min after like 5-8 attempts to unflood the carb. Your probably right i missed something during the rebuild.Yes but understand what all dodge was saying, unless you have an ingition system problem like weak coil bad cap and rotor or bad wires it should start with a .030 or .045” gap. Pull a plug crank and see if you have spark or
as mentioned if you pour a little gas down carb or spray a touch of starting fluid in and it coughs or runs briefly then dies …it verifies you have spark.
you rebuilt the carb at the same time right? and mention when you davance the throttle no gas comes out of the accelerator pump. This means there is no gas in carb. Would take fuel line off carb crank and see if gas is being pumped into carb. If it is verify screen in carb inlet is installed correctly and needle seat and float is working. From what you’ve described seems like after carb rebuild you are nit getting gas into carb.
If you forgot the float measurements yes the carb rebuild is screwed…best advice find somebody who knows carbs who can walk you thorough itit is getting gas it ran yesterday for couple seconds very rough though. If the carb adjustments are off will that cause a no start ? when i rebuilt it forgot to do the float measurements. Also will it hurt anything if i crank it to many times ? i try to give it couple min after like 5-8 attempts to unflood the carb. Your probably right i missed something during the rebuild.
it is getting gas it ran yesterday for couple seconds very rough though. If the carb adjustments are off will that cause a no start ? when i rebuilt it forgot to do the float measurements. Also will it hurt anything if i crank it to many times ? i try to give it couple min after like 5-8 attempts to unflood the carb. Your probably right i missed something during the rebuild.
i checked the coil and from A to B its 7700 ohmsLooks correct 1-3-4-2
Disconnect the plug on the right and see if it fires. If it does then its the shift interruptor
If it still doesn't start with the basics.
12V at the coil
Check the Dist
The one on the left is not the right power valve, there is no poppet sticking up.Also when rebuilding the carb i noticed the new power jet is way diff then my old one, i just put back the old one but i kinda damaged it but the pin still moves freely.
Not sure what A to B means here is a video showing primary and secondary ohm valuesi checked the coil and from A to B its 7700 ohms
but all the others that supposed to be .4 are 1.1 ?
and from B to Ground nothing changes on meter at all tried many different grounds. ?
Can it be bad ? or maybe just flooding since i didnt do the float measurements? I tried squirting some starting fluid and nothing. But this was maybe while its flooded. How would i know if its flooded ?
the new one is hollow from the back the original one had a small hole. Also its missing the pin, its just way different.Whats different? I'd go with the new one.
thats what im at now , i tried what they said to spray some starting fluid and still wouldnt start. ill try regapping them to .030 fro .045 maybe thatll help.Many troubleshooting steps suggested above, doesn't look like we've even narrowed it down to spark v fuel
exactly its different ill order another kit and do it right this time.The one on the left is not the right power valve, there is no poppet sticking up.
You need to notch a crew driver to remove the power valves with out screwing it up. There is a video at Mikes carburetor parts that shows this. Be careful if your now beat up power valve is hanging up it will run rich or lean depending on if it hangs open or closed when it shouldn't need to move freely
Ok, the new one is completely wrong. I'd talk to who you got the kit from.the new one is hollow from the back the original one had a small hole. Also its missing the pin, its just way different.
Check spark first, it's easy and usually either there or not.thats what im at now , i tried what they said to spray some starting fluid and still wouldnt start. ill try regapping them to .030 fro .045 maybe thatll help.
You have no spark then . Diagnosis the igntion systemthats what im at now , i tried what they said to spray some starting fluid and still wouldnt start. ill try regapping them to .030 fro .045 maybe thatll help.
Check spark first, it's easy and usually either there or not
ok there are 5 values the previous post said to test. i got a .5 and two 1.1 readings and a 7700 . so i think im good. Also from B to Ground it just shows infinite the meter just stays at 1 qnd never moves or changes.Not sure what A to B means here is a video showing primary and secondary ohm values
on the coil i got a .4 reading two 1.1 readings and a 7700 ohm reading also infinite from B to Ground. Nothing changes on meter just stuck 9n 1 . so it looks good??Looks correct 1-3-4-2
Disconnect the plug on the right and see if it fires. If it does then its the shift interruptor
If it still doesn't start with the basics.
12V at the coil
Check the Dist