2003 Ebbtide Mercruiser 3.0 engine rattle? Normal?

ilove2fixx

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hi guys i just bought an 2003 ebbtide 182 with the mercruiser 3.0 and the engine was running little high around 1100 rpm with muffs on. I checked plugs and they were around .030 but on the carb it says .045 ? Also i hear like a rattle from the rear end around transom area. Not sure if thats normal. I uploaded a video to youtube


 

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alldodge

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Running a tad rich, maybe the increased gap will help

Check the exhaust shutters for the rattle
 

Scott06

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3.0s are not the quietest engine.
Agree with AD on the flapper, especially if it had been over heated the rubber gets burnt off them.

Other thoughts are rocker noise due to loose rocker or lifter not taking up clearance. Might pop the valve cover and look at rockers if they are ok maybe try running a cleaner with oil and changing oil. I generally regard products like seafoam as snake oil but I have visually cleaned up the inside of engines with deposits from infrequent oil changes doing this.

Lastly maybe gimbal and ujoints. Hard to tell from keyboard but easiest way to diagnosis is pull the drive shove a hose in water port on bellhousing and run the engine if noise is gone its related to driveshaft gimbal or ujoints
 

ilove2fixx

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ok thanks guys will check everything you mentioned! Oil looks fresh and clean. I hope its something simple.
but u know i regapped to .045 and i think i have the wires in the right place but she wont start now? i took apart the carb to rebuild it dumb move when i opened it up she was brand new inside clean as a wistle amazing for a 18yr old carb. I think old owners took real.good care of it. my issue now is the rebuild kit power jet on bottom of bowl is different from whats in the rebuild kit? here are pics
 

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Grub54891

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If you are looking at the accelerator pump piston it will look different. They changed the rubber to an ethanol resistant type.
 

ilove2fixx

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the main jet is the one with the push pin embedded inside right? well as u can see in the bottom pics, its way different its wide open on the bottom end. i just put back the original one , its a little torn up on the top but the pin still moves freely .
 

alldodge

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Don't know about the "push pin" but if the hole is a different size then use the old, it will work fine
 

Scott06

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The size of the orifice in the power valve and the height of the pin need to match the original so the piston/rod that actuates it will work correctly.

Mikes Carb parts can probably verify if you have the correct one. There are several that fit Rochester 2 jets and Mercarbs. Make sure the piston/rod operates freely.

Its not unusual for the jets to be hard to get out. As long as you go back in with same size it will be fine.

to OP - if you change the plug gap and now it doesn't fire either gap is too big or firing order is wrong now.
 
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ilove2fixx

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im pretty sure i got the firing order right . But its like this
 

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alldodge

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Looks correct 1-3-4-2
Disconnect the plug on the right and see if it fires. If it does then its the shift interruptor

If it still doesn't start with the basics.
12V at the coil
Check the Dist
 

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Scott06

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Looks correct 1-3-4-2
Disconnect the plug on the right and see if it fires. If it does then its the shift interruptor

If it still doesn't start with the basics.
12V at the coil
Check the Dist
Check kill switch as well, also check spark with spark gap tester. You may have a weak ignition and now that you opened the gap cant jump it. Had this one time years ago - care wouldn't start had very weak spark closed gap on plugs from .040 down to about .028 and it started. Wasn't a long term fix but I was able to drive that day...was bad plug wires on a wet day
 

ilove2fixx

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Looks correct 1-3-4-2
Disconnect the plug on the right and see if it fires. If it does then its the shift interruptor

If it still doesn't start with the basics.
12V at the coil
Check the Dist
which plug exactly? ok will do, after rebuilding the carb the pump doesnt make a sound like it use to and i disconnected the throttle cable and manually lifted the accelerator many times and i hear nothing nor do i see any fuel being sprayed out through the 2 jets?? or is that normal if its not running ?
 

alldodge

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No fuel, that's the problem

Pump gets powered from the yellow/red wire when cranking, and the purple once started. Check for power when cranking.

If not present trace back to starter relay and oil pressure switch
 

ilove2fixx

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No fuel, that's the problem

Pump gets powered from the yellow/red wire when cranking, and the purple once started. Check for power when cranking.

If not present trace back to starter relay and oil pressure switch
i meant the little pump inside the carb.
 

ilove2fixx

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ill also put back the gaps to .28 because it seems like right after i gapped them to .045 it wouldnt start.
 

Scott06

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ill also put back the gaps to .28 because it seems like right after i gapped them to .045 it wouldnt start.
If no fuel is in the carb that is the issue. Dump fuel down carb see if it starts for a bit. If it does ignition is ok work on fuel
 

ilove2fixx

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ok fiddled with the carb a little got her to start for couple seconds running very rough and she died.. wouldnt start again. I havent put back the spark plug gaps back to .030 ( how they were before i started to work on the engine and it was running decently ) now they are at .045 maybe thats the issue. i will find out sunday But how do the plugs look i took the pics when i regapped them last week. There is oil on the threads , valve cover ?
 

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alldodge

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Look good enough to run. Changing gap won't cause a non-run issue unless the coil is taking a dump. Very few coils actually go bad
 
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