Yes but understand what all dodge was saying, unless you have an ingition system problem like weak coil bad cap and rotor or bad wires it should start with a .030 or .045” gap. Pull a plug crank and see if you have spark or
as mentioned if you pour a little gas down carb or spray a touch of starting fluid in and it coughs or runs briefly then dies …it verifies you have spark.
you rebuilt the carb at the same time right? and mention when you davance the throttle no gas comes out of the accelerator pump. This means there is no gas in carb. Would take fuel line off carb crank and see if gas is being pumped into carb. If it is verify screen in carb inlet is installed correctly and needle seat and float is working. From what you’ve described seems like after carb rebuild you are nit getting gas into carb.
how do i check if it gets 12v if the connections are unplugged ? or do u want me to check the other end , the plug end?Do you see 12V on pin b of the coil pic post 11 ?
Take hi volt wire from coil off center post of distributor and hold close to clean ground on engine block, crank engine should see a good blue spark that can jump 3/8”/10 mm or so. If not spark here will need to diagnose distributor sensor and ignition module.i get gas to car and i see it squirt good from the 2 ports. Ill verify spark
Yes check fir 12 v at plug in wire harness when key is on or crankinghow do i check if it gets 12v if the connections are unplugged ? or do u want me to check the other end , the plug end?
i got 12v at the plug and i got a strong good spark from the center cable to ground.Yes check fir 12 v at plug in wire harness when key is on or cranking
i got a good strong spark. it shocked me good and i saw the blue sparkTake hi volt wire from coil off center post of distributor and hold close to clean ground on engine block, crank engine should see a good blue spark that can jump 3/8”/10 mm or so. If not spark here will need to diagnose distributor sensor and ignition module.
if you have spark off coil, verify you get spark at the plugs. If not spark there check cap and rotor, plug wires
Ok do you have it at the spark plugs? If you have it at the center cable you must be loosing it inside the distributor cap. Maybe connection between center post and rotor is gonei got 12v at the plug and i got a strong good spark from the center cable to ground.
ill check that next tomorrowOk do you have it at the spark plugs? If you have it at the center cable you must be loosing it inside the distributor cap. Maybe connection between center post and rotor is gone
no when i unplugged cylinder one to test out spark it ran and same for last cylinder. so 3 cylinders. Yeah im thinking maybe one or more of my plugs or.cables are bad .It ran with 2 plugs but not 4? Recheck your wire order on your distributor cap and your timing
He says he has spark, i assume this is to disable the shift interrupt?here are pics of the cap
If the float level is a little higher or lower than spec it will only make it richer or leaner a touch.ok i tested all the cables and spark plugs with multi meter and all are good the inner contacts of the distributor cap were corroded a little i cleaned them out it back.I also turned the idle screw clockwise some more and she ran for like 10 seconds and turned off ?? i just rebuilt the carb again. For the float drop i measured about 20/32 and upside down around 1 and 5/32 close enough? i added a little bit because the gasket in the kit was superthin not like the original one. all thats left is maybe timing or distributer off ??