20 hp Mariner No spark

[KC9000]

So I bought another project motor, No Spark is what I was told. Testing the components I think I found the problem. 86617A20- Stator, when testing ohms resistance from black/yellow wire to black/white wire is reading Open loop and when in the black/white wire and touching the plate part is getting a 141 ohms reading. Is this a bad Stator for sure. There quite pricey and want to confirm it's bad. Is there any thing else I should check to see if it might be bad as well?

 

[KC9000]

This is what I get on a ohm resistance on this part, 86704A10 - Stator Assembly, I get a .6 or .5 reading, cant find much on this part as far as what it should read. Any advice would be good.

 

[KC9000]

The trigger assembly is reading within the specs I can find online.

 

[KC9000]

Here are the specs I can find online. 78 - 94 row 339-7452

 

[KC9000]

This is how the chart reads

 

[flyingscott]

Never seen one of those go bad. Have you checked the kill switches? If it is a tiller pay attention to the one in the handle. Have you done a DVA test? Any tests beside continuity?

 

[KC9000]

Just continuity, I will put it back together and try DVA, I unplugged the kill switches, it has one in the end of tiller and one on the side of motor, I disconnected them and it still looked like no spark, I will check again and report back, and do the DVA test.

 

[KC9000]

But shouldn't I get some kinda reading from that Stator? OL is not good right? Am I doing that test correctly? I am gonna order a DVA adapter and do that test but will be a few days. If Stator were cheaper I would just buy one and roll the dice, but they are pricey for a roll of the dice...lol

 

[Faztbullet]

Yes you should get a reading and yes I have replaced several failed ones. The 2nd stator is for battery charging.

 

[KC9000]

So am I doing that test correctly and can we confirm that is a bad Stator? Also that 2nd Stator for charging means this motor should have a starter? Which has obviously been removed.

 

[Faztbullet]

I reread your testing...you should measure the blk/yell to stator base and should read 3200-3650 ohms and the blk/wht should be 150-250 ohms.

 

[KC9000]

Yeah I get no reading from blk/yell to base, blk/wht gives me 141 ohms. I ordered a new one, I will report back of she fires up. Thank you guys for your input and advice, I am truly grateful for your knowledge and time responding to these threads. Thanks again.

 

[KC9000]

So replaced the Stator and we got it fired up. It runs a bit rough, any thoughts on that? What would make it run so rough? Would not idle either...

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[Faztbullet]

Check spark and timing on both cylinders when running

 

[KC9000]

I did, hooked up a timing gun and it looked good through my amateur eyes nice rapid pulse on both cylinders. I will get new plugs, then record a video of the timing light and post it. I absolutely appreciate your time, thanks again.

 

[Faztbullet]

Mark TDC on both cylinders and check

 

[KC9000]

Well, did an adjustment on the carb needle and the engine ran good. It will need a carb rebuild, it is leaking a little from some areas, I will tighten the screws and bolts to see if that does the trick. But before that think I am gonna take it for a spin. How does it sound, I would like a expert opinion, please.

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[Faztbullet]

Sound good but at least clean the main jet before WOT use. That is a chrome bore motor and dont want to run cylinders/pistons lean. ......Like he Jeep as same rims on my Z71

 

[KC9000]

Awesome, will do. Thanks again, thats the kinda info I would not know but now I do. Yeah that jeep I've owned for 20 years now, I love that jeep!!!

 

[KC9000]

Is 16 the main jet? I am gonna do a rebuilt kit on this carb when I get more time but for now I will take her easy on it. How about spraying some seafoam in the carb? Think that will clean it out?