1998 Johnson 175 Ficht Not Starting

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Crosbyman

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ok all this says the coils don't fire ....we are back to the ground pulses on the control leads ...

Since all plugs don't fire likelyhood of a bad ECU is a definite possibility or... the ECU is not firng because it decides not to do so for sensor reasons... line a bad CPS . check manual for potential reasons for NO STARTS

it may be a good time investment to recheck all system voltages as per manual. recheck all connectors and check contacts were possible ...aply contact cleaner.
 
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whalerbob

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Today I check if fuel was getting into the cylinders by following Crosbyman's advice and I can confirm fuel is getting to the cylinders, fuel pressure test on the high and low ports are within specs.
Using the noid light and the static fuel injector test in evdiagnostic I can confirm all injectors appear to be operating normally, I watched each light blink on and off 30 times, no blips.
No faults appearing in evdiagnostic.
 
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whalerbob

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Faztbullet said:
Test output to ignition module from ECU
Click to expand...
In conducting voltage supply tests, I placed the positive meter lead on the fuse for the "Ignition System", with the key on the voltage should be 1 volt less than the reading at the battery, and it is. While cranking, this voltage should be increase, but it doesn't
I attempted to test the voltage coming to the coil packs, the instruction said leave the primary coil wire connected, insert a test connecter (sewing pin for me) into the boot of the primary coil wire at the coil, with the meter, red to the test connecter, and black to engine block ground. When I crank the engine, I should get a minimum of 180 volts, my meter reading says -8.5 volts. I tried it on several primary coil connecters and I get the same result. I am either conducting this test wrong, or it's pointing to the problem. I think it's also important to note that it is/was an intermittent problem. Any thoughts?
 
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Crosbyman

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the 2002 -2006 FICHT _ETEC book doesn't mention much on the 180v your refer to ...unfortunately I have no access to a 20011 manual but if you found that info in a reliable book you may be on to something.
 
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whalerbob

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whalerbob said:
Today I check if fuel was getting into the cylinders by following Crosbyman's advice and I can confirm fuel is getting to the cylinders, fuel pressure test on the high and low ports are within specs.
Using the noid light and the static fuel injector test in evdiagnostic I can confirm all injectors appear to be operating normally, I watched each light blink on and off 30 times, no blips.
No faults appearing in evdiagnostic.
Click to expand...
I forgot to add that I inserted paper into the cylinders while cranking to confirm fuel is being sprayed in the cylinder.
 
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whalerbob

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whalerbob

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I'm going through the tests again and I discovered the Power Relay connector has signs of melting. The wires seem intact, the power relay doesn't appear to have any signs of heat damage, and the power relay test was good, it just looks like the connector housing is melting. I grabbed my old harness to see if I could swap out the connector and that one was also in the same condition. I'm going to cut the wires at the clip, put new clips with plastic sheathing on them and attach them to the relay without the housing. Finding those big clips is not so easy.
 
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whalerbob

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saltchuckmatt

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Everyone has everything for that motor that you don't need.

No one except for some kind of barn find, will have the part you need.

You'll end up having to buy the whole engine and possibly the boat.

Sad really.

Hopefully, Crosby will have some kind of work around for you.
 
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saltchuckmatt

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Well there you go. Some entrepreneur is fixing them....$600 smakers and down the rabbit hole you might go.

You gotta wonder, why did it burn up?

Nice to know you can fix it if you want to!
 
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whalerbob

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I'm back with an update - over the last 2 months I searched high and low for an ignition module. The first one I found came out of California from someone that parts out motors, $450 with a 6 month guarantee - that one proved to be faulty and kept blowing the ignition circuit fuse, I got a full refund minus shipping. The second one came out of California from a private seller, the bracket was rusted and cracked in multiple places, it had a ford relay in and it appeared to be off a motor that was submerged, that one cost me only shipping. The third one came out of Florida from another salvage company for $400, it looks brand new, however I can tell it was installed on a motor by the markings on the bracket where the bolts go. One of the bracket arms was bent, but nothing that I couldn't work around. The engine started right up and I'm back in business. Thank you for everyone's comments and advice, these forums and it's members are the best.
 
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Crosbyman

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great news thanks for the feedback but..still curious about your compression numbers if the engine runs good.... a bad meter maybe ???
 
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