1997 Bayliner Capri Stringer and Floor Repair

[SteveD78]

Hey Guys,

Just looking for some help. I'm trying to replace some rotten stringers etc. for my first time. Long story short, I was told the boat was good to go and not so much. Anyway. started demo today. Cut up about 4"'s on both sides of the ski locker and all the way to the bow seating area.

Planning on replacing the stringers and section of flooring, so I can run a new piece of floor and cut out a new hole for access.

After getting busy under the driver side, or starboard, still new at this lol, I noticed another stringer that didn't even look like it had fiberglass. Nothing came with the foam, just bare. All the foam is water logged, so have to remove all that and now replace another stringer section. Can you tell me if this looks normal? Almost looks like the inner hull has been compromised as well. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

I can't see anything that looks like hull damage, but you're definitely in for a complete tear down. With the stringers that you can see in that condition and water logged foam, you can bet that the whole stringer system is going to be about as bad. So now you're in for stringers, floor, motor mounts, and most likely transome.

 

[SteveD78]

I can't see anything that looks like hull damage, but you're definitely in for a complete tear down. With the stringers that you can see in that condition and water logged foam, you can bet that the whole stringer system is going to be about as bad. So now you're in for stringers, floor, motor mounts, and most likely transome.

Is it normal though that they would only fiberglass that one stringer part way? There was nothing either side and looks like the just ran oit and said F"k it.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome to Bayliner build quality

Based on the pics, youre in for a full gut and referb.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Is it normal though that they would only fiberglass that one stringer part way? There was nothing either side and looks like the just ran oit and said F"k it.

That would be my guess too. I've seen some stuff like that where it wasn't rolled out well, but not just skipped over. Unless there was something else glassed over that spot before, and it was later removed without sealing back up.

 

[bakerjw]

Steve, just be aware that you are not alone. Many of us here have cracked open a can of worms just like you did and have lived to tell about it. In fact, I missed a couple of things on my current Stratos and had to dig back into it. My stringers and bulkheads are all still dry and solid as a rock.

One thing that you will also find is that the engine and IO mounts will likely be bad too. It is a task but as mentioned in many other threads, when you are done, you will have a SOLID boat and be able to brag that you did it yourself.

I do not know if you can pull the cap of a Bayliner but doing so makes ease of access much easier. With the cap gone, you might have to cradle the hull when you work on it. Prevents it from flattening out. Others here with experience around these style of boats can chime in.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would try to pull the cap. the cap will have screws and adhesive holding down most of it.

 

[redneck joe]

welcome to the forum.


If you undertake it, plan for a big job ahead of you but as stated you will know you have a well built boat that will outlast you if taken care of.

You will never recoup your money.

Can take a few months or a few years depending on your money situation and time commitment.

 

[SteveD78]

Is it normal though that they would only fiberglass that one stringer part way? There was nothing either side and looks like the just ran oit and said F"k it.

Ya, that's crazy. That's exactly how it looks. Friday shift, ran out of material and said screw it, I wouldn't buy a Bayliner anyway

I work in automotive, I doubt I would buy one of these vehicles either

I guess the next few weeks are gonna be interesting.

Thanks for the help.

 

[SteveD78]

Welcome to Bayliner build quality

Based on the pics, youre in for a full gut and referb.

Ya, slowly moving backwards from the Bow. Just working on the starboard side for now, that seemed like the worst side. Think someone just left this poor boat to sit and rot away.

Guess carpet is coming off.

 

[redneck joe]

Ya, slowly moving backwards from the Bow. Just working on the starboard side for now, that seemed like the worst side. Think someone just left this poor boat to sit and rot away.

Guess carpet is coming off.

thats how it happens - a tarp/cover that collects water and falls in but hey its covered...

 

[SteveD78]

welcome to the forum.


If you undertake it, plan for a big job ahead of you but as stated you will know you have a well built boat that will outlast you if taken care of.

You will never recoup your money.

Can take a few months or a few years depending on your money situation and time commitment.

 

[SteveD78]

Ya, cost is not really the worry, it's the time it will take and not having a heated shop to work in over the winter. Also, spending more than the boat is worth will be the ice breaker when tryimg to explain it to the wife.

The rot is all the way back, so this isn't piece work anymore, it's full tear out.

Gonna see what I can get, to sell it for parts and if nothing, then I guess I have a project .

 

[SteveD78]

I would try to pull the cap. the cap will have screws and adhesive holding down most of it.

I pulled mlre today to try and get a better look. Still figuring out how to do the seats without having to rebuild all that as well.

 

[SteveD78]

Steve, just be aware that you are not alone. Many of us here have cracked open a can of worms just like you did and have lived to tell about it. In fact, I missed a couple of things on my current Stratos and had to dig back into it. My stringers and bulkheads are all still dry and solid as a rock.

One thing that you will also find is that the engine and IO mounts will likely be bad too. It is a task but as mentioned in many other threads, when you are done, you will have a SOLID boat and be able to brag that you did it yourself.

I do not know if you can pull the cap of a Bayliner but doing so makes ease of access much easier. With the cap gone, you might have to cradle the hull when you work on it. Prevents it from flattening out. Others here with experience around these style of boats can chime in.

Ya I read somewhere about having to block it. Neighbours are gonna love me . Something else to learn.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Neighbours are gonna love me .

Just wait till you start grinding, they'll love that.

 

[redneck joe]

Ya, cost is not really the worry, it's the time it will take and not having a heated shop to work in over the winter. Also, spending more than the boat is worth will be the ice breaker when tryimg to explain it to the wife.

The rot is all the way back, so this isn't piece work anymore, it's full tear out.

Gonna see what I can get, to sell it for parts and if nothing, then I guess I have a project .

cost - if you do it once, it will be correct. Sell/trash this one, next one can be the same or just a pit of never ending money.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Assume 3500-5000 for cost and a fair amount of time

 

[redneck joe]

also, 'more than it is worth' is a given with a boat. You need to use the ROI of the cost against the entirety of boating, not just the hardware. as with most hobbies, it is about what brings you happiness.

 

[bakerjw]

Just wait till you start grinding, they'll love that.

When I ground down my Stratos to the hull, I originally used a heavy sandblasting hood. Most miserable day of my life.


I do automotive painting as a hobby so I already had one of these. When you grind, get something like this. Compressor air is not healthy too.

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