Re: 1995 Crownline 210 CCR Deck Repair
Glad to see I'm not the only one who numbers things. heh As always, take my advice with a gallon of salt since I'm still very new to this also.
1) Should i, after doing demolition of old stringers, leave around 1/4" of the channel that the old stringers came out of to use as a guide for the new stringers?
I was really tempted to do this because it makes things easier. Cleaning out the channels (I have not tried a chainsaw as one suggested) is a fair amount of work since you want/need everything out of there to get a clean bond I think. It seems about as much effort if not less to just grind them flat which also ensures that they wont peel up on you like a couple of mine are trying to do.
2) I'll be using poly resin for a majority of the rebuild (budget reasons). Once i have the stringers glassed and set in the hull, should i use mat and epoxy (for its bonding qualities) to attach stringers to the hull of can i still use the poly?
I think you can use poly all the way around.
3) Bedding for the stringers??? What is that and what do i do? I assume something goes between the wood and the hull for "cushion"? Need some guidance with this please.
I believe that describes the gap filler between the hull and the stringer so that you don't have the stringer placed directly against the hull which can create "hard spots". From my reading here some use a peanut butter type resin mix and some use the PL adhesive you can get from Lowes.
4) Does this sound correct...? cut and form pieces used for stringers and deck, then lay it all out. Coat with poly, then cloth, then wet the cloth making sure to get everything coated (including wood edges)... do this for top and bottom sides. Once everything is in place and deck is attached to stringers, switch to biax for final layer?
Sounds about right to me. I am going to do as much of my epoxy coating outside of the boat to make life easier and then assemble and glass inside.
5) Foam floatation... with pour in foam holding water, can i use (should i use) pink 2" thick insulation foam for floatation instead? This is water resistant, correct?
No help here I'm afraid. I'm not putting the foam back in after what I saw. I think any foam is going to eventually absorb water. If it was I'd probably use that pink stuff. It looked easy to work with.
6) Limber holes, done from front to rear to allow any water intrusion to drain to rear of boat or can i do it from outside towards center of hull? Does it really make a big difference?
I am probably going to go a little overboard (pun intended) on limber holing (<=- new verb). For mine it will be one limber hole per boxed in area on whichever the lower side is.
I'm asking this all now because with any luck (and a great amound of help from God) I'll get everything torn out by this weekend and be able to start prep for new material by next weekend.
Awesome! You'll be ahead of me then and I can start asking you questions 
*edit* - Wahoo! I wasn't completely out in left field.
