1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

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tpenfield

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Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Ha ha, yeah. Some guys ask what tools you will need to do this job. It would be easier to name the tools you don't need.... The hardest part about boat restoring is all the trades you will need to become familiar with:

Woodworking
Fiberglassing
Carpeting
Vinyl/Upholstery
Gel coat repair
Mechanics(engine and outdrive)
Electrical
Painting(bilge and engine compartment)
Sales(to you wife why you need more suppiles)
Marriage Counseling(when she doesn't believe you)
Finance (when you blow your original budget)

... well at least that is how it went for me.

Nice assembly job and good project :thumb:

Yup, those seem like the skills . . . and its one of those things that if you knew then what you know now . . .
 

Badfish95

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

"Nice assembly job and good project

Yup, those seem like the skills . . . and its one of those things that if you knew then what you know now . . ."

I couldn't agree more. I believe that I made improvements to the original design, however if I had another crack at it..... Just kidding. I'm hanging up the dust mask. I give credit to those who do this for a living and completely understand why they charge the rates they do.
 

DanTheMan23

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Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Congratulations! You really did a bang up job!!

What made you go with a #20 spring for the hatch? I thought the original springs were #60.. I was just about to order a set for my hatch..
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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5,674
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Ha ha, yeah. Some guys ask what tools you will need to do this job. It would be easier to name the tools you don't need.... The hardest part about boat restoring is all the trades you will need to become familiar with:

Woodworking
Fiberglassing
Carpeting
Vinyl/Upholstery
Gel coat repair
Mechanics(engine and outdrive)
Electrical
Painting(bilge and engine compartment)
Sales(to your wife why you need more supplies)
Marriage Counseling(when she doesn't believe you)
Finance (when you blow your original budget)

... well at least that is how it went for me.

Man, you got those right!

Nice job on the restoration. What beautiful work! You now have a really nice boat that should last you for years and years...

The weather we're having in this part of the country has not been conducive to boating; I know we needed the rain, and I'm glad the rivers, lakes and aquifers are being replenished. We're getting close to having too much of a good thing, and I WANT TO GET MY BOAT OUT AND REALLY OPEN HER UP!

Congrats, though, Badfish, on completing your boat. She's sweet!

Jim
 

Badfish95

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

DanTheMan23 said:
Today 09:24 AM
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration
Congratulations! You really did a bang up job!!

What made you go with a #20 spring for the hatch? I thought the original springs were #60.. I was just about to order a set for my hatch..

You may very well be correct on the gas springs. I felt the old one and without a scale guessed it to be the 30# spring.... But if you go strictly by the part # it matches the 20# ers. It was one of those things that I was bound to guess wrong. I would say you would be good with the 30's or the 60's. the 20's somewhat assist when lifting an are enough once its all the way up to keep it from falling. 120#' of constant pressure on the 3/8" plywood seemed high to me but maybe not. I didn't want my 3 year old to pull the latch and eject my 30# 2 year old overboard. Let me know how yours goes.
 

Badfish95

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Originally Posted by Badfish95
Ha ha, yeah. Some guys ask what tools you will need to do this job. It would be easier to name the tools you don't need.... The hardest part about boat restoring is all the trades you will need to become familiar with:

Woodworking
Fiberglassing
Carpeting
Vinyl/Upholstery
Gel coat repair
Mechanics(engine and outdrive)
Electrical
Painting(bilge and engine compartment)
Sales(to your wife why you need more supplies)
Marriage Counseling(when she doesn't believe you)
Finance (when you blow your original budget)

... well at least that is how it went for me.
Man, you got those right!

Nice job on the restoration. What beautiful work! You now have a really nice boat that should last you for years and years...

The weather we're having in this part of the country has not been conducive to boating; I know we needed the rain, and I'm glad the rivers, lakes and aquifers are being replenished. We're getting close to having too much of a good thing, and I WANT TO GET MY BOAT OUT AND REALLY OPEN HER UP!

Congrats, though, Badfish, on completing your boat. She's sweet!

Jim

Thanks Jim. I really appreciated your encouragement as I was working on her.

This weather is ridiculous. I checked the forecast for Sunday and it looks dry....with a high of 69!!!! I'm from Northern IL originally. Thought that moving 3 hours South would get me a few more weeks of summer. I'd settle for 90 degrees and 90% humidity at this point!

Be sure to post how your first WOT pass turns out.
 

Nameless boat

Recruit
Joined
Jul 1, 2013
Messages
1
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Badfish 95. I have a 98 202 br that is in need of a new floor and stringers. I plan on using your project as a guide to help me. I plan on starting at the end of the season. Without pulling out all of your receipts, how much do you think the job ended up costing in materials. Also are there any tips you could give me that may make my life easier or anything you wish you knew before you started?
Thanks in advance and great job the boat looks great
 

jsturvey

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
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Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Beautiful Restoration, Badfish! Judging from the pics, that looks like a brand new boat!
 

Badfish95

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 30, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

Badfish 95. I have a 98 202 br that is in need of a new floor and stringers. I plan on using your project as a guide to help me. I plan on starting at the end of the season. Without pulling out all of your receipts, how much do you think the job ended up costing in materials. Also are there any tips you could give me that may make my life easier or anything you wish you knew before you started?
Thanks in advance and great job the boat looks great

Sorry Nameless for not getting back to you more quickly.

Approximately $3,000.00 for all materials. That includes all resin, cloth, screws, paint, carpet and upholstery work. I shopped around for most materials too. I was quoted $3,000.00 from a local boat yard to redo the floor. When you factor in labor, Just imagine the corners that would need to be cut in order to come in under that budget.

Advice:
1. Post your progress. This is what really helped me when I got overwhelmed. Feedback from other iBoaters will help you get through it.
2. Set goals for progress. Have a realistic goal for completion and stick to it.
3. Don't get discouraged. The grinding will seem endless, but it does pass.
4. Ask friends for help. Some jobs just need more hands. Having someone mix your resin and hand you materials sure beats getting in and out of the boat 20 times a night.

If you have any questions PM me and I'll do my best to help you out.
 

Lwarden

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 22, 2012
Messages
346
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

IMG_1262_zps63ee0e60.jpg

All Stringers received a coat of poly resin with 10% styrene mixed in to thin it out. It took a little longer to dry, but seemed to penetrate well.

IMG_1266_zps0c590be8.jpg

Stringers are bed in! We used 5 tubes of PL Premium. I used a brad nailer to tack the stringers in while it sets. It will all be glassed over so they will be encapsulated. It was great feeling to have bones back in my boat. There were a few times during the build that I wondered if this day would ever come.

IMG_1265_zps3ba5de1b.jpg

This photo brings us up to date. The PL Premium is drying currently. My dad and I have logged about 32.5 hours each in the cutting of stringers, grinding, recutting, resin coating and bedding of stringers. We took a half day off to let the glue dry and reward ourselves.

IMG_1263_zps60da4463.jpg

Saw this Marine grade 16 oz carpet at Lowe's for 1.28 sqft. What do youguys think? Beige(close to original), Midnight(Dark grey) or Maroon(Boat's accent color)?

What carpet did you end up going with and was the 16oz of when you wrapped corners and edges? could you see the backer when it was folded?
 

Badfish95

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
118
Re: 1995 Crownline 202 BR Deck Restoration

What carpet did you end up going with and was the 16oz of when you wrapped corners and edges? could you see the backer when it was folded?

I went with 24' of the 1302 12' wide Midnight from Lowes. You cannot see the backing when folded around corners. I think it cost around $300 if I remember correctly. You may be able to find a better grade of carpet online for the same price. It was thinner than the original carpet, maybe 20 oz originally?

Also, I used 3 types if glue. I used a latex outdoor carpet glue, 3M spray adhesive, and DAP Weldwood contact cement. My recommendation is to go with 2 gallons of the DAP and a can of the 3M spray. The easiest glue to work with was the latex, but it did not have the hold down strength of the others. Use the DAP primarily and the 3M spray in the more difficult areas.
 
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Badfish, lots of props for the work you've done on your '94. Looking super solid. Your string has been my main source of knowledge as I tackle my own sucker project: A 1996 Crownline 202BR very similar to yours. I've begun tearing out, and have thus far siphoned and removed (and cleaned) the fuel tank, etc. I didn't invest very much (yet) in mine, because the engine blick was also cracked. The engine is out currently (being built), and I have the space to rebuild the floor. The good news is that the transom and engine mounts are solid. The rear floorboards on either side of the engine also seem to be very solid, so I was thinking of beginning my stringer and floor replacement from there forward. I've fully exposed the bulkhead that separates the fuel tank area from the engine compartment, and that piece of 3/4 inch plywood is water-logged and soft. To you and all the guys who have done a floor replacement, do you see any problem with this? I've been studying the stringer layout, and it seems that it shouldn't be too hard to double the thickness of that bulkhead and connect to the area behind. Agree or object? Also, wondering if I can stop my floor board (sole?) cut BEFORE the outside edges that meet the boat hull. I'm concerned about gouging the hull. Thoughts on cutting to the fiberglassed blocks that extend from the walls to around four inches inward? Thanks for any info - I know this job has to be done correctly. - AgainstTheWind13 (new to the forum!)
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Badfish, lots of props for the work you've done on your '94. Looking super solid. Your string has been my main source of knowledge as I tackle my own sucker project: A 1996 Crownline 202BR very similar to yours. I've begun tearing out, and have thus far siphoned and removed (and cleaned) the fuel tank, etc. I didn't invest very much (yet) in mine, because the engine blick was also cracked. The engine is out currently (being built), and I have the space to rebuild the floor. The good news is that the transom and engine mounts are solid. The rear floorboards on either side of the engine also seem to be very solid, so I was thinking of beginning my stringer and floor replacement from there forward. I've fully exposed the bulkhead that separates the fuel tank area from the engine compartment, and that piece of 3/4 inch plywood is water-logged and soft. To you and all the guys who have done a floor replacement, do you see any problem with this? I've been studying the stringer layout, and it seems that it shouldn't be too hard to double the thickness of that bulkhead and connect to the area behind. Agree or object? Also, wondering if I can stop my floor board (sole?) cut BEFORE the outside edges that meet the boat hull. I'm concerned about gouging the hull. Thoughts on cutting to the fiberglassed blocks that extend from the walls to around four inches inward? Thanks for any info - I know this job has to be done correctly. - AgainstTheWind13 (new to the forum!)

This thread has been inactive for 3 years. We ask in a case like this that only the original poster revive the thread.

Please start your own thread and you can ask all the questions in the world and Badfish can reply there.

Badfish - Closing this. If you want to continue posting and keep it alive, let any of the Mods know and we will reopen it for you.
 
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