1991 V135 - Project Engine

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Tip of the week: Ever fought that huge snap ring at the bottom of the engine mount pivot shaft? Here's a simple solution:

First locate socket that just fits over the end of the shaft. Next get a wood workers pipe clamp with a pipe long enough so the clamp fits over the length of the tube when inserted into the bracket. I used one with a 36" piece of black pipe, (never use galvanized the clamp ends won't slide and they will slip under tension).

With the clamp loosely in place with room to fit the socket and snap ring under the bottom of the tube, place the snap ring on top of the open end of the socket and place them both on the clamp end. Begin tightening the clamp and align it with the tube end as you go. The ring will expand and easily slide over the tube and into the grove.

That should save you a few frustrations....

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

09/23/2009 -

L/U Work

JB Weld Build up:

Sanded:

Primed:

Painted:

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

L/U update 09/23/09 -

Found: +- 1/4" side play in bearing described in parts manual as "Bearing Kit" part number 36387A1. I didn't lookup the proper name for this bearing in the service manual yet. I will edit this post later to add it.

Proper name is roller bearing no exact designation. If you were to call it the drive shaft roller bearing I think that would be distinct enough to not confuse it with the lower pinion bearing which according to the manual is a needle bearing.

Found: Blue discoloration of the drive shaft on the upper end just below the splines. Found out this may be normal, I suspect (unconfirmable) that it is from the milling of the splines. If the shaft is monel steel then this would in fact be normal.

1. Do I leave as is? No was my initial thought but it may be normal and I trust the source of the information. So yes, I will leave it as is.
2. Do I repair it? Only if it appear to be a problem later when the engine is in the water and running.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Hey Steve ,If I may point out several items: thats a regulator not rectifier. It being bad is why the stator encapsulated windings are swollen and rubbing flywheel and transfer to magnets are what scuffed the metal ends, The only way a flywheel can rub a stator is if upper bearing fails or stator comes loose not a balance issue. I have run stock flywheels on stock cranks at over 6800 rpm and never had one rub. As for the bearing in lower unit, to check it you must pull up a shaft as gears are designed to "come together" when running, if you dont it will be sloppy play in it. As for the upper part blue tinted I have seen several of these from factory this way ,guess someone forgot to polish. Great post!!!

 

[bigshrimpin]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Absolutely correct. While you can get 150 hp out of a 135 it's not a simple carb swap to make it happen and hardly worth the money either. This particlular engine of mine is a pretty darn good example of what happens when you try to bolt on hp.

.

Difference between the factory Mercury 2.0L 135 and 2.0L 150 was carbs and exhaust tuner. 135 had the LONG LONG tuner and 150 had a shorter tuner. older 150 XR2 and 150 Mariner Magnum had the short bell 2.4L 200hp exhaust tuner. If you add fingerports, D port pistons, cut the heads (bump up compression), open rod slots . . . you can get more than 150hp out of that small 2.0L.

Don't foget to remove the oil injection and idle stabilizer module.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Thats correct on later model engines (1992 up) but the 1991 was a block all to itself. The 92-99 135/150 are the common block engines as in 2000-01 block changed again.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Hey Steve ,If I may point out several items: thats a regulator not rectifier. It being bad is why the stator encapsulated windings are swollen and rubbing flywheel and transfer to magnets are what scuffed the metal ends, The only way a flywheel can rub a stator is if upper bearing fails or stator comes loose not a balance issue. I have run stock flywheels on stock cranks at over 6800 rpm and never had one rub. As for the bearing in lower unit, to check it you must pull up a shaft as gears are designed to "come together" when running, if you dont it will be sloppy play in it. As for the upper part blue tinted I have seen several of these from factory this way ,guess someone forgot to polish. Great post!!!

Thanks so much, I fixed the regulator problem, sloppy posting on my part. I need to proof read.

Regarding the drive shaft and the upper bearing in the L/U. Thanks for the info. I'll try and read up on it tonight. I don't have other drive shafts to compare mine to so thanks for giving me piece of mind on the blueing. I guess that's from production milling of the splines. I think it's Monel steel, pretty tough stuff to mill without surface discoloration even in the best conditions.

Thanks again..

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Difference between the factory Mercury 2.0L 135 and 2.0L 150 was carbs and exhaust tuner. 135 had the LONG LONG tuner and 150 had a shorter tuner. older 150 XR2 and 150 Mariner Magnum had the short bell 2.4L 200hp exhaust tuner. If you add fingerports, D port pistons, cut the heads (bump up compression), open rod slots . . . you can get more than 150hp out of that small 2.0L.

Don't foget to remove the oil injection and idle stabilizer module.

Interesting info thank you. I had heard that these little guy's can put out decent HP. I've pretty much resolved to leaving it fairly stock and going for longevity instead.

I have it in my plans to do away with the oil pump and the stabilizer is badly damaged from heat. I had heard that it was best to do away with it and you've confirmed it. Thanks.

What do you think about the fuel pump? I was thinking of going to a high volume low pressure, (4-7lb) electric.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Thats correct on later model engines (1992 up) but the 1991 was a block all to itself. The 92-99 135/150 are the common block engines as in 2000-01 block changed again.

Exactly, mine was cast in 90 and is a 91 with the 10 bolt stud bolt pattern. I know the 91 uses a bottom guided rod and in 92 I think they changed to top guided and based on what was said seems like they changed a lot of other things also. A light bulb just went on as to why I'm getting info on this engine that doesn't seem right compared with what I'm seeing.

There you go, you did it again.. Thanks!

P.S. You're propbably right about the stator. Jump back a few pages and take a look at the trigger.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Gone fishin.. be back in a couple of weeks.... maybe..

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

After much conteplation, I have decided not to end this post.

Waiting for parts, please standby, the show will resume soon. I also have new pics of piston/rod assembly. I'll post them soon.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Picking up a bunch of parts today... Just got a call an everything is in except the electrical.. Got a break in the weather so I'm going fishing tomorrow. I'll try to get some pics posted Sunday. Been really busy rolling out a new core software application at work so not much time for play.

 

[fedpo]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

I just ran across this post today and I thoroughly enjoyed reading all 4 pages. I'm having piston/cylinder work currently being done on my 2003 200 hp Merc, so this is somewhat similar. PLEASE keep the post going and I look forward to hearing about (and hopefully seein pictures of) the final project. GOOD LUCK!

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Thank you for the nice comments. The power head is back on the mid section now and a preliminary compression check shows 115 lbs on all 6. This is consistent with new rings and fresh bores before break in and ring seating occurs.

The next step is to repair what wiring I can and replace the remaining. The motor will not be running oil injection and I have plugged the oil pump mount with high temp epoxy. The pulse fuel pump will also not be used and instead will be replaced with a Holley Red Marine grade pump with vapor return.

The 16 amp stator will be augmented with a 50amp aftermarket alternator so there is plenty of juice for charging and lighting if desired. Addtionally, the stock rectifier and regulator will be replaced with a single combined CDI rectifier/regulator package. The rectifier/regulator for the add-on alternator is internal.

Someone asked why I didn't just upgrade to a 40amp stator and the answer is that I could not find a flwheel that was reasonably priced and my crank is balanced to my 16 amp flywheel. I'd be throwing that work away so at slightly over 500.00 for the aftermarket unit and 150.00 for the cowling upgraded I came out about the same for cost and got more.

I have purchased a 1998 Optimax cowling to accomodate the new alternator. This is a direct replacement for the original 91 cowling.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Why did you plug oil pump hole with epoxy??? Why not a factory block off plug or a plate? I would worry about fuel breaking down the epoxy and slivers entering crankcase and cylinder. If you needed a 40 amp flywheel you should have posted it as I have several and the cowling would not have been changed

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Why did you plug oil pump hole with epoxy??? Why not a factory block off plug or a plate? I would worry about fuel breaking down the epoxy and slivers entering crankcase and cylinder. If you needed a 40 amp flywheel you should have posted it as I have several and the cowling would not have been changed

They use JB weld to fix cracks in these blocks and its just an overated epoxy. The stuff I use is made by Loctite and is fuel resistant, it's not going anywhere.

Thanks for the offer on the 40 amp flywheel. The 40amp systems are not very efficient compared to a 50amp auxillary alternator. Even if you gave me a flywheel I would stil have to buy a 40 amp stator and dual rectifiers/regulators so the cost would have been about the same. If this doesn't work out I'll certainly be knockin at your email address.

The cowling change makes the engine look a little newer and more in tune with today's stylings. I would probably have done it anyway.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Couple of pic's --

 

[fedpo]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

LOOKIN' GOOD! How much longer before you take her on the water?

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

LOOKIN' GOOD! How much longer before you take her on the water?

If parts get here I may get her fired up this weekend. I'm taking a little "Work on Hobby" vacation starting tomorrow so I might splash it on Monday before I have to go back to work on Tuesday. She's hangin of the back of the boat now and all wired up.

I got my CDI spark gap tester yesterday and I'm just waiting on the new Merc coils and the plug wires form Bob's Machine. I have a standard set of wires I can use to get it broke in if the new ones don't get here.

As a side note, I had a problem with Sierra coils colapsing early and double firing that I don't want repeated on this engine. There's no guarantee that I won't have a "out of box" failure with the Merc coils either but I feel better with original equipment.

 

[sschefer]

Re: 1991 V135 - Project Engine

Put some fuel in her this morning and had one float problem. Took the carb apart and found that the gasket under the needle seat was twice the normal thickness. Don't know why I didn't see that when I put it together the first time but I do remember that it was the only float that I had to tweak. It couldn't fully close with that thick gasket. Just another Merc gottcha.

Gave it one last look over, choked it for 5 seconds and fired it up. It took a few seconds to burn through the fogging oil but it came to life rather quickly. I idled it for about 5 minutes and it settled right in. It smoked a lot because I'm running 20:1 mix in a 6 gal gas tank for break in.
I then ran it at various RPM's not exceeding 2500 and it just got better.

I pulled the plugs and ran a compression check and had a perfectly even 125lbs on all 6. Not even a pound difference.

The cooling system is flawless, thermostats opened at 143 and the water temp was perfect for instant coffee just as it should be..

Water pressure was a little low but it was on the hose and the pee hole was a wide open 3/8 fitting since I had the lower skirts off.
3lbs at 800 rpm idle and 8 lbs at 2000 rpm.

Stuffed it in gear f/n/r and the gearcase sounded perfect. It has one of those quiet clutches in it so there's barely even a clunk when it shifts.

After another half hour of running I re-torqued the heads then fired it back up. I rapped the throttle a couple of times and it sound like a finely tuned motor cycle. Extemely responsive. I'm pretty sure that's the result of Chris Carsons reeds.

I think I have the flu or something and won't be able to make it to work tomorrow. I think I better stay away from people. Humm.. There shouldnt be anybody at the lake tomorrow.

Here's some pic's

The newer alien style cowling should be here next week. It should make the engine look a little more modern. I'll be ordering the 50 amp alternator once I'm sure it will fit under the new cowling.

There was one major glitch for me in building this engine but it was a quality control issue with CDI. Seems someone got the yellow and black bands on the trigger wires swapped. I actually figured out the problem fairly quickly but was to stubborn to belive my findings. I had such high regard for CDI that I just couldn't believe they made a mistake. They did and so did I.

Lesson learned on that. If you do the tests and they tell you what's wrong.. Believe it.:redface: