1991 Searay 225 BR Transom and Stringer Evaluation

[JASinIL2006]

Your grinding looks really good to me. If the stuff that's left is solid, pink, and clean, you are good to go. You do not have to remove all the old tabbing, as long as the stuff left behind is clean and solid, and as long as it's not getting in the way of new glass to be added.

That smooth stuff on the transom is the thickened resin used to attach the transom core. You don't have to remove it, but you want to make sure your total transom thickness when you're done is within spec. If that old thickened resin is too thick, it might cause your overall thickness (after glassing in the transom core) to be too great. If it looks like that might happen, just grind some off. If you're eventual thickness looks OK, though, you can leave the old stuff.

 

[kcassells]

Kcassells thanks for the responses. I'm going to have to read thru your rebuild.

Any comment on the grinding questions above?

Looks darn good. Couple of spots I would grind down some more in pic 1 and 3. 2 pic looks good.
Some areas the glass didn't bond well or is air, otheres kinda the same or rough. you want to be able to roll your hand across with out getting pricked by nubs. The nubs keep the glass off the hull and make air pockets.
I marked out a couple of spots but thats what I see from your pic. You're a better judge of that than me.

 

[GCartwright]

Yes the transom does have a bump out or step where the resin is so more grinding there, up in the front I don't have the room to get into the corner with my flapwheel so will try a die grinder with an abrasive stone to see if that works. The drum sander I tried lasted about 10 seconds before it ripped apart

 

[GCartwright]

What type of grinder are people using to get into tight area's such as around the upper transom when the caps are still on?
Also the transom where it meets the hull in the strakes seems hard to grind with all the angles there.

Would a belt sander like this work better than a 41/2" grinding disk?

 

[kcassells]

That's a handy darn tool. Keep wanting to pick one up! That'll do it.

 

[Woodonglass]

the Multi Tool is a GREAT tool for cutting and sanding in tight spots...

https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=multitool

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I second WOG. The cheap multitool is great, just don't use it for long extended time periods unless you like your hands to feel like they are humming a tune when you are done. Cheap and effective vibration dampening do not go together.

 

[AlabamaNewbie]

That HF Oscillating tool is awesome. I used it with a metal blade to cut out my deck, stringers, and transom. It was low dust and pretty quick.

 

[GCartwright]

Your grinding looks really good to me. If the stuff that's left is solid, pink, and clean, you are good to go. You do not have to remove all the old tabbing, as long as the stuff left behind is clean and solid, and as long as it's not getting in the way of new glass to be added.

That smooth stuff on the transom is the thickened resin used to attach the transom core. You don't have to remove it, but you want to make sure your total transom thickness when you're done is within spec. If that old thickened resin is too thick, it might cause your overall thickness (after glassing in the transom core) to be too great. If it looks like that might happen, just grind some off. If you're eventual thickness looks OK, though, you can leave the old stuff.

I just put a straight edge across the transom and it's high in the center by about 1/8" so hope that I can take the center down just a a bit to flatten it out , didn't measure the transom thickness but doesn't look any thicker than about 3/16"

I was able to get back a few inches above the transom, going to try to reach the rest with an oscillating tool still have more grinding to do..

Appreciate the help and comments, grinded through the hull in one spot last week so felling a bit gunshy

 

[Woodonglass]

Hulls are EEEEEEZZZZZYYYY PEEEEEZZZZZEEEE to fix. Don't be gun shy!!!

 

[Mad Props]

hope you didn't throw away all that grinding dust by the transom! It makes great coffee creamer!

Obviously JK lol, don't eat it!

 

[GCartwright]

hope you didn't throw away all that grinding dust by the transom! It makes great coffee creamer!

Obviously JK lol, don't eat it!

Never thought of that, I've just been sprinkling it on my pancakes

Enjoying your YouTube restoration videos MP

 

[Mad Props]

Thank you! Nice to hear some people are actually watching them lol..

Was hoping the views/subscribers would pick up a little faster than they are, but I enjoy making them anyways so if they do, good, if they don't, oh well!

 

[GCartwright]

Got some grinding done over the weekend, hoping the transom is close to being finished, still a bit of the factory paint to get off.
Does the cream colored stuff (pl?)running along the upper shelf need to be completely removed as well as in the hull to transom corner?
I plan to do a 6"and 12" tab of 1708

 

[Woodonglass]

Based on the above pics, I'd say...Job well done!!! Wash her down with acetone and let the Glassing Begin!!! Your tabbing sounds correct. Check my Transom link below for any Refresher thoughts you might need. Using enuf PB and proper clamping are the keys to a good transom install. Make sure and Seal the edges Thoroughly.

 

[GCartwright]

Thanks for stopping by WoG, warm weather is coming to an end and I would like to get the transom in while we have the odd day in the 70's, I do have the trim tab holes to give additional clamping as well

 

[GCartwright]

I always thought that my back would be my weak link on this project but it's the standing on a 21 degree incline that is killer on my knee.
While I wait for my knee to settle down I have a few questions about some gelcoat /fiberglass repair
The picture is of the strake that is very close to the motor mount where I went through the hull with the grinder, flap disk edge and fogged up goggles, we'll go with that :facepalm:
switched to a 34 grit resin disk which works better anyway

I do plan on filling the strakes with pb so what would be the best method to repair?

Also I'm seeing that brown crap that was under the mount and in other areas , that need to be ground out as well as what looks like pl that's still in the strake?
is the brown discolored fiberglass from the rotten wood?

 

[Mad Props]

Most likely surface staining from the rotted wood. I would grind it down to clean glass, especially if you are filling the strakes anyway.

 

[GCartwright]

got a bit done in the last week, rain has been really bad for the past few weeks , the transom is cut, laminated with Tight bond lll and test fit, keyhole also is cut, still need to smooth out all the edges and drill for the steering relief hole.

A few questions :

I picked up about 20 yards of 2oz chop strand mat for next to nothing (well $20 is something if I can't use it ) I understand that it's more difficult to use than 1.5 oz, is it just corners that this mat doesn't like? I do have enough of the 1.5 oz and will just use that if it makes it easier

In the last picture of the transom I marked where the holes for the trim tabs would be, I would like to drill oversize holes and fill the holes with pb and redrill on all through holes , with the upper mount am I better off drilling the whole works out with a 3"hole saw and pb or just drill and Pb each individual hole?

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[Woodonglass]

2oz is fine. It'll drink a bit more resin and as you stated a bit harder to make it conform. TIP: Do a test run with the CSM and use tape to hold it in place. Mark the corners with a Magic Marker and then remove the glass. Where the marks are tug and pull the Glass to loosen it up about 6" in all directions. This will make it conform much easier.