1990 Force 120HP #2 Cyl zero compression and upon opening piston shows damage

[gica]

When I tested every second wire from #4 down showed continuity to the mounting bolt at the end. And that was on both motors. The only one that didn't was for #1 wires which showed OL for both wires to the bolt and 55 ohms to each other.. So I think that there is something going on. Have no clue if those wires should show that when tested. I have the CDI test procedures printed will see what happens.

 

[gica]

Ok did some tests the trigger DVA shows 0.5 or less on 4 3 and 2 and 0.7 on 1
If I do resistance between trigger wires I get 52ohms between all except #1 ehich shows close to 1k ohms to the other leads. Supposed to be 50 something.
On the statorsidr I get 550 k ohms between 4 and 3 blue to yellow and 680 between 2 and 1. DVA I get 190 between 4 and 3 and 210v between 2 and 1.
All at cranking. I didn't actually start it to see higher RPM.
Bench tested the diodes in tye rectifier and they are fine.
Ok so I just checked spark and #1 does not show a visible spark. All the others do.
On tye second engine I get 250V DVA between the 2 yellow and blue sets.
I checked trigger between 2 and 1 and I get .7V
I already ordered a trigger Because of the resistance on number 1.
Do I need anything else? Thanks

 

[gica]

Any idea if based on the tests the stator should he changed also?

 

[The Force power]

I would check the Stator-wires that is giving less than 680 ohms

 

[gica]

So I ordered a trigger based on the online Crowley Marine info 300-888797.
I received a 4 wire trigger with a 5th ground black. My trigger has 2 wire per cyl so 8 total. The only ones I found to be similar are for the 90hp but being a 3 cyl it's not good. Any idea where I can buy this.

 

[Nordin]

I would suggest you to call Franz at Franz Marine Service.
He is the man that knows all about Chrysler and Force.
He will have the right trigger base and if he not have it, he will give you information where to find it.

 

[gica]

Thanks Nordin.
I just read about the replacement 4 wire triggers on the CDI website.
Supposetly they trimmed it down to 4 wires from 8 and the wires are stronger and longer lasting.
And this is how you install. I thought it was tye wrong part but it seems they don't make the 8 wire anymore.
Waiting for the stator tomorrow and then I will take out the flywheel yet again. Hope this time it will be easier.

 

[The Force power]

So I ordered a trigger based on the online Crowley Marine info 300-888797.
I received a 4 wire trigger with a 5th ground black. My trigger has 2 wire per cyl so 8 total. The only ones I found to be similar are for the 90hp but being a 3 cyl it's not good. Any idea where I can buy this.

when I searched the # I found , So I think they send the wrong part

 

[The Force power]

when I searched the # I found , So I think they send the wrong part
View attachment 391698

OR

136-4029-4 Force Trigger F654029, F654029-1, 300-F654029-1, 300-888797 | Outboardignition.com

CDI Electronics 136-4029-4 Force Outboard Boat Motor Trigger F654029, F654029-1, 300-F654029-1, 300-888797

www.outboardignition.com

 

[gica]

The one I got is OEM Presto 300-888797 5 wire just like the CDI in your attachment.
Can I use that and install per diagram below?
The resistance between leads is in the 90s between 4,3 and 2 and in the 70s between 2 and 1. So that is a bit different.

 

[The Force power]

The one I got is OEM Presto 300-888797 5 wire just like the CDI in your attachment.
Can I use that and install per diagram below?
The resistance between leads is in the 90s between 4,3 and 2 and in the 70s between 2 and 1. So that is a bit different.

I had another look & I see now the second white-green lead, sorry yes it looks like the correct one

 

[The Force power]

Waiting for the stator tomorrow and then I will take out the flywheel yet again. Hope this time it will be easier.

Have you trimmed / cut the wires back on the one set with lesser reading to see if the wiring was damaged getting a better reading?

 

[gica]

I did not but I recently fixed all the wires because I could get idle to stay at low RPM. Afterwards it stayed but I had the hesitation
So earlier I removed the flywheel, so easy this time thank god, and I have the old trigger in front of me, I don't get any readings between 1, 2 , 3 and 4. I only get readings between 1 an 1, 2 and 2 3 and 3 4 and 4. Remember there are 8 wires. And I get OL between any of the wires and the body of the trigger.
On the new 4 wire plus ground I get a reading between any of the wires. And all the wires are continuous to ground and body of the trigger. Wtf.

 

[gica]

On the new one I get 96ohms between any leads and 48 ohms between any lead to ground. The ground seems to be common. The 8 leads also had ground on every second lead when mounted on the outboard. It tested continuous to the mounting bolt.
Anyways I do hope this fixes the hesitation issue.
I still need to know if I can use the 4 wire in the place of the 2 wire. I think I can.
It was redone to eliminate the second wire from each pack.

 

[gica]

Wonder if Jerry would know about the trigger if the 300-888797 4+1 can be used to replace the 8 wire 300-F654029-1

 

[Nordin]

Looks like they have grounded the trigger to the housing and added a ground wire for the block at the new typ.
In the old typ trigger the common wires are insulated to the ground and there is no ground wire.
That why the old one have 4 more wires for the trigger signal.
The trigger signal is a low voltage signal and it is for open the thyristor in the CD box to discharge the capacitors and dump it to the ignition coil.
In the old style the voltage from the trigger is created between the 2 wires from each trigger coil. In the new style they use ground to create a voltage for each trigger coil signal.
I have not worked with this new style trigger but now I know there is a new style trigger.
Thanks.

 

[gica]

Looks like they have grounded the trigger to the housing and added a ground wire for the block at the new typ.
In the old typ trigger the common wires are insulated to the ground and there is no ground wire.
That why the old one have 4 more wires for the trigger signal.
The trigger signal is a low voltage signal and it is for open the thyristor in the CD box to discharge the capacitors and dump it to the ignition coil.
In the old style the voltage from the trigger is created between the 2 wires from each trigger coil. In the new style they use ground to create a voltage for each trigger coil signal.
I have not worked with this new style trigger but now I know there is a new style trigger.
Thanks.

So it should be safe to use to replace the old one right?

 

[Nordin]

Yes, if this one is replacement for the OEM trigger.
I have not checked which OEM trigger part number this one replaces.
You can check at outboardignitiondotcom.
They sells CDI Electronic parts.

 

[gica]

Force 120 Horsepower Trigger 136-4029-4 134-7029-4 134-8303-4 | Outboardignition.com

Trigger for 120 HP Force 1996-99 models with Serial # OE138600 thru OE369299 Manufactured by CDI electronics. 828303A1, 855745A22

www.outboardignition.com

The first one says
Replaces: F654029, F654029-1, 300-F654029-1, 300-888797
So it replaces both
Old 8 wire 300-F654029-1 and newer 4 wire 300-888797

 

[The Force power]

Force 120 Horsepower Trigger 136-4029-4 134-7029-4 134-8303-4 | Outboardignition.com

Trigger for 120 HP Force 1996-99 models with Serial # OE138600 thru OE369299 Manufactured by CDI electronics. 828303A1, 855745A22

www.outboardignition.com

The first one says
Replaces: F654029, F654029-1, 300-F654029-1, 300-888797
So it replaces both
Old 8 wire 300-F654029-1 and newer 4 wire 300-888797

Yes, the top one is
Not the bottom one that for the Merc. ignition system