1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Nautolex is great, I love it on my deck, however I hesitated to recommend it for this because I don't think it would work around corners and such on your cabin ceiling. Nautolex is glued down but they still recommend some sort of mechanical fastening on the edges. Something "painted" on is probably the best idea. The non-slip products should work great, just don't get something too rough that would skin your forehead! Maybe just some Rustoleum with sand added for texture would be the ticket. jasoutside did some tests with different things for his deck in his Islander thread you may want to check out. Photos too.

Yeah, nautolex has some other products also other than the flooring material. I'm just taking it all in and am in no rush to spend money on something I am not sure aboat. Rustoleum with sand added is not an option for me. I don't like painting fiberglass and the sand additive is not really the texture I am looking for.

As of right now I am leaning towards Duraback. This stuff is even used on outdoor pavements like at cross walks and such. They use it on tug boats etc. I think this is probably some of the tuffest stuff out there for diy projects. The durabak is offered in a smooth texture as well as non-skid and can be applied as thick as you want it. I would like to have a nice 1/8 inch coating. The down side is they have pre-mixed colors, so I would have to find a color I liked from there pallet of colors.

The advantages of the kiwi is, it can be tinted to any color and you can adjust the texture to basically anything you want as you apply it. I have also already used this product a few times. It also can be recoated several times to be a nice thick coating that will deaden sound.

I have also ordered some sample swaths of a few other products that I have interest in just to see what they are like in hand..

Keep the opinions and ideas coming. I promise what ever I do, It will be something very cool and right for the space.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

CC254,
Lot of good recommendations above, but departing a bit from specific "finishes" - and from a more general perspective, you have a good combination of a clean/basic look with some nice teak accents on the rest of the boat, and you have proven yourself to being quite handy at bringing faded teak back to life. I know the material is expensive (and you are probably sick of dealing with it), but maybe doing a nice (easy to clean, mold free, fabric free) finishing coat and just add a couple of teak accents (almost like a chair rail type piece) in there to match the rest of the boat. You could do vinyl on the pads that match your exterior vinyl or just go with plain white/cream.... Also, with your electrical proficiency, maybe add some cool leds or courtesy lights. Maybe this is also a good time to make sure the ventilation/hatches are "robust" especially if you are re-doing the windows (just to make sure you have plenty of fresh air without leaks).... I have heard those cabins can get stuffy.... Just thinking out loud.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

CC254,
Lot of good recommendations above, but departing a bit from specific "finishes" - and from a more general perspective, you have a good combination of a clean/basic look with some nice teak accents on the rest of the boat, and you have proven yourself to being quite handy at bringing faded teak back to life. I know the material is expensive (and you are probably sick of dealing with it), but maybe doing a nice (easy to clean, mold free, fabric free) finishing coat and just add a couple of teak accents (almost like a chair rail type piece) in there to match the rest of the boat. You could do vinyl on the pads that match your exterior vinyl or just go with plain white/cream.... Also, with your electrical proficiency, maybe add some cool leds or courtesy lights. Maybe this is also a good time to make sure the ventilation/hatches are "robust" especially if you are re-doing the windows (just to make sure you have plenty of fresh air without leaks).... I have heard those cabins can get stuffy.... Just thinking out loud.

I appreciate all your comments. I do have plans to continue some teak inside, that is a definate. I love me some teak! lol If I use any vinyl in the cabin it will more than likely be just in the lower areas to replace what is there and new cushions as the old ones don't match the existing exterior vinyl. I want to bring the color pallet I used on the exterior bolster pads to the interior. Just want it to be consistant and flow through out the boat. I will eventually have all new canvas made for the hardtop inclosure also to play off these colors.

Led lighting will be added to the interior. I am doing away with the 3 overhead lights that were there to give it a much cleaner look. The lighting obviously has to be useful but also want it to accent well. Will be using the same lights that I used for the exterior rod boxes, over head box and logo.

The coating of the walls will just be a backdrop of all the other things that will be going in. I design kitchens,baths, homes, etc etc all the time as part of my living. The smaller the space, the less you need to show it off. So, things will be very deliberate and clean looking. Colors have to be suttle but effective and lighting can make or break a job. I like the no clutter look.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Got some more grinding done today. Chris Craft had used alot of filler around the corners. This is going to look like night and day by the time I'm done. Boat builders just did not care what things looked like under that monkey fur. Arrggg!

Not the best pics, was taken early evening with flash and alot of dust.

Before

After

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

More pics of progress.

 

[25thmustang]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Looking really good. I did this on my last 27' boat and can relate to how nasty grinding that stuff down truly is.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Looking really good. I did this on my last 27' boat and can relate to how nasty grinding that stuff down truly is.

Thanks man. I have found it not to be to bad with the top hatch open and side windows open the dust tends to fly out as I am grinding. Not sure what my neighbors think about that, but ohh well,lol

What part of CT are you in? I spent about 10 years up there in Stamford and then Darien.

What did you end up finishing the interior with on that 27 footer after you got her smooth?

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Worked on the cabin a bit more last night. Focused on the ceiling. Note - grinding directly over your head directs the dust away from you. I will definately have some fiberglass repairs in the corners where Chris Craft did a poor job of layup. Will install fillets to the corners eventually to round the corners some and make it easier to fiberglass.

Will also have to skim coat most of the cabin to get it to smooth out well. Its either filler or fiberglass/resin. Filler sounds like a easier option imo. Anyone have recommendations on the best fairing/filler material to use?

These are panoramic pics, a little distorted but gives you an idea of the whole interior in one shot.

 

[zopperman]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Peanut butter for filling and fairing...

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Peanut butter for filling and fairing...

Really? I was thinking fiberglass bondo or 3m premium marine filler. I will burn through a gallon in no time in this interior. How are you mixing your peanut butter?

 

[zopperman]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

I use US composites stuff.. resin + 1/4" chopped fibers, + cabosil.. mix till it's PB and add hardener. I suggest this because I assumed you had some resin and stuff laying around.
You could use bondo hair for this since its pretty protected.. I dont recommend it for below the water line, it can swell up, absorb water and pop off. but It can withstand a few drops in a cabin.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

I use US composites stuff.. resin + 1/4" chopped fibers, + cabosil.. mix till it's PB and add hardener. I suggest this because I assumed you had some resin and stuff laying around.
You could use bondo hair for this since its pretty protected.. I dont recommend it for below the water line, it can swell up, absorb water and pop off. but It can withstand a few drops in a cabin.

Zac, thanks for your input. The bondo that I was referring to is for boats it is fiberglass bondo. It is waterproof according to them. I do have some resin here and some mat but that will be used in the corners and varies other areas that need some glass before I start fairing it all out.

The good thing about the Bondo compared to some others is I have applied it in cold weather with good results. Dries in about 20 minutes and can be sanded. That may become a factor as I think I will be doing this in the cold. I do have a space heater I can use in the cuddy though.

Budd

 

[zopperman]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Yeah, bondo is fine! I know it says its waterproof, but I've seen it fail below the waterline, just a heads up.
keep them pix coming!!

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Yeah, bondo is fine! I know it says its waterproof, but I've seen it fail below the waterline, just a heads up.
keep them pix coming!!

Heres to hoping my cabin is NEVER below the water line!!!!

 

[zopperman]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Heres to hoping my cabin is NEVER below the water line!!!!

Amen!!!!

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Heres an update. Things don't always go smoothly. I was completly done with the bow pulpit and went to install the hardware/roller assembly on it for the anchor. The holes for the roller assembly was tweaked a little and when I torqued the bolts down, it tweeked the wood just enough to raise one seam while lowering another. This caused the perfectly smooth finish to not be completely smooth.

Well, after completly being irritated with myself for not pre-drilling the holes a little larger, I went to stripping the multiple coats back off the pulpit. A belt sander made short work of this. The good news was the seams I was having issues with before were much easier to cover this time around.

This is the pulpit as it sits now, will be going back on the boat tomarrow. Its as good as its going to get!

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Bow pulpit installed,waiting on new stainless led bow light. Next will be the swim platform. What a pits that will be!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

That little project was WELL WORTH the effort. Nice!

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

That little project was WELL WORTH the effort. Nice!

Thankyou sir! Yeah, I think I can finish the interior up faster than that little project took,lol We will see.

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1990 Chris Craft 254 Seahawk ( Refurb and upgrades)

Well, got the swim platform off the boat and sanded down today. Unlike other times on this platform, I really took the time to get the edges sanded/filed down this time.

This is before removal. It still looks pretty good but up close it doesn't.

You can see here the 45 degree edges need some work where the planks meet up with one another. I didn't spend much time on those areas before when I had sanded it down and applied teak oil.

There were other areas like one crack and some old bolt holes that needed to be filled. I also wanted to do away with the routed out surface on each plank, so I sanded it down until smooth. This is after sanding the top surface down.

You can see here the 45 degree edge is going to need alot of work.

I though of many ways to tackle the 45 edges but the only tool that really would do the job right was a hand file and alot of work and patience. This pic is an over all pic of the platform after lots of hours of filing by hand.