lowkee
Lieutenant Commander
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2008
- Messages
- 1,890
Re: '1990 Bayliner Capri 2050 BR - Deck, stringers, transom, custom interior'
Thanks bear! Making it became quite addicting... My wife was beginning to get annoyed hearing the same song 40 times while I was working on it, hehe.
Well, today was stringer day. I put it off as long as I could, buying foam and just plain goofing off. They turned out better than I was expecting and were much easier to make than I thought (after some initial 'hmm' time).
I sawed 6 1/2" from each side to mate the 3/4" plywood. I used fine threaded drywall screws and liquid nails. The drywall screws will be fine, since they should never touch water and the lquid nails also holds well
To make the cut-line on the stringer boards, I placed 2 2x2 boards across the gunwhale and tied string to them
To make the stringer boards hover, I tied them using a temporary drywall screw in the top edge of each end of the board. This allowed me to adjust for height and level quite easily. It really made easy work of preparing them for marking
Once the boards were hovering in place, I used a stick with a pencil taped in place to draw a line perfectly matching the contour of the hull. This became my cut-line and transferred every bump and dip perfectly
Once the cut-line was drawn, I used a cheap angle finder at various points along the hull to make the stringer bottom match the hull contour down to the degree
I used a jig saw to make the initial cut and a skil saw to make the angle cut, adjusting the angle along the way. I also made an angle cut at the end of the stringer for the transom slope
Thanks bear! Making it became quite addicting... My wife was beginning to get annoyed hearing the same song 40 times while I was working on it, hehe.
Well, today was stringer day. I put it off as long as I could, buying foam and just plain goofing off. They turned out better than I was expecting and were much easier to make than I thought (after some initial 'hmm' time).
I sawed 6 1/2" from each side to mate the 3/4" plywood. I used fine threaded drywall screws and liquid nails. The drywall screws will be fine, since they should never touch water and the lquid nails also holds well
To make the cut-line on the stringer boards, I placed 2 2x2 boards across the gunwhale and tied string to them
To make the stringer boards hover, I tied them using a temporary drywall screw in the top edge of each end of the board. This allowed me to adjust for height and level quite easily. It really made easy work of preparing them for marking
Once the boards were hovering in place, I used a stick with a pencil taped in place to draw a line perfectly matching the contour of the hull. This became my cut-line and transferred every bump and dip perfectly
Once the cut-line was drawn, I used a cheap angle finder at various points along the hull to make the stringer bottom match the hull contour down to the degree
I used a jig saw to make the initial cut and a skil saw to make the angle cut, adjusting the angle along the way. I also made an angle cut at the end of the stringer for the transom slope
