1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

RIDEPATE

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

wna,
It sure looks in your pics that your motor is low in the front. The angle of the pulleys and how close the alternator-bracket is to the floor. I would not move another inch until you pull the drive and check the alignment. If the boats that rotten, the motor-mount area and the transom more than likely are too. Get some close-ups of the mounts.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

wna,
It sure looks in your pics that your motor is low in the front. The angle of the pulleys and how close the alternator-bracket is to the floor. I would not move another inch until you pull the drive and check the alignment. If the boats that rotten, the motor-mount area and the transom more than likely are too. Get some close-ups of the mounts.

I really dont have much rot at all when I look at alot of what other guys are dealing with. I went back out there, looked at the mounts and everything appears to be solidd and in place. The motor does kinda look like its leaning forward when you look at it from the side. I pryed up a little on the engine and it didnt budge. None of the glass around the mounts looks cracked or disturbed. The transom drill tested solid as did the stringers underneath. Should I try to drill into the mount bases to see what I find? The alternator bracket seems to be hitting the hose from the fuel tank because it is tucked out of the way under the bracket and actually gets pulled back out and was attached with clamps to the old seat framing. I never heard of a boat engine being misaligned. How do you go about checking the alignment and what would a misaligned engine do/symptoms?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Woodonglass that draw-up is awesome and will certainly come in handy. So I heavily soak all the edges with resin, I suspect to seal them. Do I let the edges dry before applying the bottom layer of csm and subsequantly wrapping the edges with(wrapped from the bottom up and over). Does the csm come in different weights as I have seen you type "csm" in some places and "1.5 oz csm" in others. Roughly how long does this kind of stuff take to dry before I can move onto the next steps?

All the CSM I am talking about is 1.5oz. Yep Soak the edges GOOD and Coat ALL of the wood first and let it dry. Then lay a layer of CSM on the BOTTOM of the Deck Wood and wrap it over the edges. Then install the deck. Then lay the Final layers of CSM on the Top of the Deck and run it up on the sides of the hull AFTER you use the PB to fill the GAP between the deck and the Sides of the HUll. YOu only have about 15-20 minutes to work with until the resin will start to KICK and set up. So only mix about a quart at a time at first. When you get used to working with it you can mix more. Don't want to waste it. It will get a little WARM when the chemical reaction starts so don't panic, that is normal.

What are you using on the Grinder to grind with? A Backup Pad and 36 Grit Sanding Discs I hope!!!!
 

RIDEPATE

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

I really dont have much rot at all when I look at alot of what other guys are dealing with. I went back out there, looked at the mounts and everything appears to be solidd and in place. The motor does kinda look like its leaning forward when you look at it from the side. I pryed up a little on the engine and it didnt budge. None of the glass around the mounts looks cracked or disturbed. The transom drill tested solid as did the stringers underneath. Should I try to drill into the mount bases to see what I find? The alternator bracket seems to be hitting the hose from the fuel tank because it is tucked out of the way under the bracket and actually gets pulled back out and was attached with clamps to the old seat framing. I never heard of a boat engine being misaligned. How do you go about checking the alignment and what would a misaligned engine do/symptoms?

You would need an alignment tool. Do a search. When the mounts sink, the input-shaft from the drive and the coupler are not aligned correctly any longer which will result in the coupler failing and/or a leak at the transom housing. I would for sure core-drill the mounts. Are your mounting bolts lag-screws??? Or are they through-bolted (with a Nut/washer). Most, not all, mercs are lagged. Pull out a lag-bolt and see what it looks like. Or better yet try to snug-one up a little, if it tightens, you're probably good, if not..Trouble.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

I will get some pics up of the motor mounts probably tomorrow. I do know this boat sits real low in the water(backend), maybe the motor sits level while its in the water and looks like its leaning forward out? I tightened up the nuts on the mounts and the left side tightened a few turns and then was tighter than I could turn with my 20" crescent wrench. The right tightened up as well but didnt require as many turns. It does appear that the left has about an inch of threads sticking above the nut while the right is flush with the top of it.

It looks like it will be trickier to get the wood around the back stringers with the engine in place. It really doesnt look like the wood was even on top of the stringer rather than butted up to it.I can get down there and look at the side and dont see any wood left on top of the stringer but there is definately hard fiberglass. Since I will have to piece in the floor, do I just seal the seams with fiberglass over them and then again with the fiberglass for the entire floor?

Woodon, (per pm) Home depot sells some woven stuff(I assume biax), and then regular fiberglass mat. I looked but it never said anywhere that it was 1.5oz or any weight for that matter. I want to get started on fixing the hole but I dont know if its the right stuff.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Sorry Woodon I missed your post about the grinder. Where it was suggested using PB in beetween the wood and the hull, it appears they did that as well. When I first removed the floor I left a strip of glass all the way around. I went through with my regular hard disc grinder and cut that tab sticking out off. I assume when you refer to a grinder to start grinding on the hull your refering to a DA style sander/grinder?

Heres the bad news I went out to try and get a gameplan for getting the wood in around the motor and believe I found some rot. Is it possible that there are stringers that stop in front of the motor and then a seperate string runs from there to the transom? Theres a small section about 8" long on the stringer beside the engine that looks like it may have gotten wet. It drills out the color of good wood and not dark in any way but its soft. It looks like it starts about 3" from the back of the boat and is soft for 8". Its all there and my screwdriver doesnt go in farther than the initial tip but I need to know what to do with it. Does the whole stringer have to come out now?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

"Woodon, (per pm) Home depot sells some woven stuff(I assume biax), and then regular fiberglass mat. I looked but it never said anywhere that it was 1.5oz or any weight for that matter. I want to get started on fixing the hole but I dont know if its the right stuff. "

NOPE!! You're prolly NOT going to be able to buy your supplies locally. You're probably going to have to order them. www.usomposites.com is a great source for supplies. That SOFT stringer is WORRISOME!!! Have you done any more DRILLING and have you found any MORE soft areas???
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Woodonglass;3281376 NOPE!! You're prolly NOT going to be able to buy your supplies locally. You're probably going to have to order them. [URL="http://www.usomposites.com" said:
www.usomposites.com[/URL] is a great source for supplies. That SOFT stringer is WORRISOME!!! Have you done any more DRILLING and have you found any MORE soft areas???


I drilled out a few more spots and spent a liitle today getting the wood out from under the fiberglass that comes out of the engine area. I can now see the top of the stringer in that area and it is still solid but has began the rot process although not very far along. Its still just that one small area.
 

RIDEPATE

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

I drilled out a few more spots and spent a liitle today getting the wood out from under the fiberglass that comes out of the engine area. I can now see the top of the stringer in that area and it is still solid but has began the rot process although not very far along. Its still just that one small area.

Like I've said all along, get the tool and check the alignment. That will be the key-indicator of just how much the mounts have sunk. Like wood says......"Denile" Can you band-aid it to last for a season?? Probably, but you'll be back...............sooner or later.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Aligning the engine might be a bit out of my expertise or ability do to other circumstances. It may be something that I need a mechanic to do.
 

RIDEPATE

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Aligning the engine might be a bit out of my expertise or ability do to other circumstances. It may be something that I need a mechanic to do.

If you can pull the drive. You can align it. Not difficult at all. The tool is all over E-bay. You can do a search here to explain. I just hate to see you put all this work in your boat and it comes back to bite you. If the mounts are soft. and the motors sinking(sunk), you will blow the coupler,then you'll be doing it allover again. Now maybe your mounts are fine (enough) align it and boat-on. Most I/O mounts do sink/settle some, but there is a point where it's too much.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

If the mounts sunk wouldnt there be some indication visble by means of cracked fiberglass around them or would it just flex with the weight?
 

RIDEPATE

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

If the mounts sunk wouldnt there be some indication visble by means of cracked fiberglass around them or would it just flex with the weight?

The boat I had did not crack the glass, it only was evident after I pulled the bolts out and saw the oblonged holes, which were hidden by two-inch washers. But yours are probably screwed-in from the top, correct??? Mine were through-bolted with nuts, so's an easy find. I found out by pulling the drive and checking the alignment to confirm my fears. I would think if yours is like most mercs they are sitting atop the mount-pad. The glass itself would not carry the weight of the motor and should be cracked . If it's not, you should be fine.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

The mounts sit on bolts that are sticking up, and then nuts screw down on top of the. I hate taking advice from home depot guys, went to buy a backing pad for my grinder, fine other than they gave me the discs with the wrong hole size and 1/2" to small. I should have payed better attention myself. So tomorrow I will be getting a bunch of 36 grit discs and going at it.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Got started on the grinding today. It wasnt as bad as I was guessing it would be. STill alot to go if I have to completely get all the old carpet glue off the side walls.
Anyone have any advice on wether I should go with a thicker wood for the floor than what was originally used or if it matters?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

How thick was the original??
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Sorry for the lack of updates lately, I have been stuck in bed the last few days. I guess I have been pushing myself to much and had to pay the piper sort of speak. Woodon the original floor was 3/8" or 1/2". It looked to vary but that was probably due to the woods age. Hopefully I can get up and about here soon and get some more progress done. What exactly is gelcoat and how is it applied? I had a guy come quote the repair on the hull just for advice's sake and he told me he could make it look like it never happened and I wasnt sure how he could do this with the gelcoat. Oh and his price was higher than I have in the entire boat. He said he could get it done in one day and I know there has to be drying time in there somewhere so hes not spending an actual day on it so theres no way I could pay him what he wanted.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

Sorry to hear your down.

Gelcoat is kinda like paint. KINDA!!! It is a polyester resin product but you can Tint it to any color. Best way is to spray it but you can brush it or roll it on with a foam brush or roller. It is Hard to get it to COLOR match and you have to sand buff and polish it to make it look nice. Final coat has to have a wax additive or a special spray coating on it so it will cure properly. Not as easy as paint but the guys that like it say painting is harder so I guess it's all what you are used to. Since yours will be below the water line you can brush it on sand and buff it a bit and you'll be fine. Not to worry
I'd recommend a 1/2" to 5/8" deck going back.
 

wnaplay

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

I understand the repair inside the boat, its fairly simple sounding. I am still kinda lost on the outside. The hole will be filled with the filler, but your also saying I need to sand and add a layer of csm to the outside? Am I supposed to grind a groove for this piece to sit into and then put a paint(gelcoat) over this csm? If I dont grind a groove, wont you be able to feel/see the csm piece's edges? Whats the smallest amount of gelcoat I can buy, and do you need to mix parts including the curing additive?

Thanks for the condolences woodon. Hopefully the new brace I get fitted for on wednesday will improve things.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1989 maxum remodel with updated pics, advice please

You are going to place tape over the cut on the outside so the resin should be fairly even with the hull on the outside when you are done. BUT... you are correct you wiil be grinding this and feathering this out in order to create a shallow valley to lay the resin and csm in and bring it back to level. You will then sand and use 3M premium filler to FAIR everything out in preparation to apply the gelcoat.
 
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