1989 Chaparral Transom Repair

alldodge

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Layers of glass should work fine in the old to new. Also make sure to have enough layers where stringers meet transom, this area needs to be firm and tight
 

rad1026

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Will do Dodge, thanks for the reply. I have gone through 5 gallons of resin now and just re-ordered 2 more gallons. I think that is going to be enough. I'm planning on at least 3 layers of 1708 in all edges and corners. Hopefully I will get started this weekend.
 

rad1026

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Didn't want you guys to think I was being lazy. Worked a lot over the weekend. Saturday I got two layers of 1708 on all edges of the port motor mount and along the edges of the stringers. Sunday I came back in with one more layer all around. So I have three layers now and I'm telling you it is rock solid. I didn't double up the motor mount stringer like I originally planned. I just don't think its necessary. When I get the deck back on and 1708 over the edges and down the stringer I really think its going to be stronger then the original. I didn't get any pictures from Sunday, but here are some with two layers.

Also a couple pictures of Lake Havasu on Labor Day weekend. Crazy place, lots of big, fast boats.
 

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alldodge

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Only pic I noticed was the buns of steel :rolleyes: didn't see any 1708
 

JASinIL2006

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Didn't want you guys to think I was being lazy. Worked a lot over the weekend. Saturday I got two layers of 1708 on all edges of the port motor mount and along the edges of the stringers. Sunday I came back in with one more layer all around. So I have three layers now and I'm telling you it is rock solid. I didn't double up the motor mount stringer like I originally planned. I just don't think its necessary. When I get the deck back on and 1708 over the edges and down the stringer I really think its going to be stronger then the original. I didn't get any pictures from Sunday, but here are some with two layers.

Also a couple pictures of Lake Havasu on Labor Day weekend. Crazy place, lots of big, fast boats.

Motor mounts? What motor mounts?

:laugh::laugh::laugh:
 

rad1026

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This was posted in show520 rebuild thread in 2010:

"engine and out drive removal...= 4 hrs
transom removal = 6 hrs avg (it varies)
hull prep = 2 hrs
clean up = 1 hr
transom build = 3 hrs avg
instllation = 1 hr
cure of instlation = overnight
glassing and cure = 3 hrs
tie ins = 6 hrs avg
cutting the hole and glassing = 2 hrs
gellcoating bilge and new transom = 1 hr
paint bell/ drive /housing = 1.5 hrs.
re instllation of housing = 1.5 hrs
motor installation = 3 hrs (includes hook ups)

these are professional times.....and all times vary
for a first timer.......triple all numbers !
a first time dyi can do a transom in 40-70 hrs depending on skill level."

First time dyi in 40-70 hours? Ha, yeah right. I've been working on this since February. Granted, I really didn't dig in until March sometime when I finally resolved myself to the labor of love job. Research and reading not included I can't begin to add up the hours I have in to this. A typical dyi, like me, only has time to work on weekends. Has to prep the boat every time they begin the process. For me, at least the boat is across the street at my In-law's house, but just that backing the truck up across the street, hooking up the boat, backing the boat in to my driveway so I'm close to my garage and tools and supplies. Uncover the boat, grind down any buggers from the previous glassing phase, vacuum and wipe down. Climb in and out of the boat a million times because I am doing this 99.9% by myself. I mean, yeah I could have this done in 40 -70 hours with a helper and continuous work flow, but if any of you guys are following this thread and want to get an idea of how long this takes. Hey its a labor of love, right? Love is forever. Do it right, one time and your boat will love you back for decades to come.
 

JASinIL2006

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This was posted in show520 rebuild thread in 2010:

"engine and out drive removal...= 4 hrs
transom removal = 6 hrs avg (it varies)
hull prep = 2 hrs
clean up = 1 hr
transom build = 3 hrs avg
instllation = 1 hr
cure of instlation = overnight
glassing and cure = 3 hrs
tie ins = 6 hrs avg
cutting the hole and glassing = 2 hrs
gellcoating bilge and new transom = 1 hr
paint bell/ drive /housing = 1.5 hrs.
re instllation of housing = 1.5 hrs
motor installation = 3 hrs (includes hook ups)

these are professional times.....and all times vary
for a first timer.......triple all numbers !
a first time dyi can do a transom in 40-70 hrs depending on skill level."

First time dyi in 40-70 hours? Ha, yeah right. I've been working on this since February. Granted, I really didn't dig in until March sometime when I finally resolved myself to the labor of love job. Research and reading not included I can't begin to add up the hours I have in to this. A typical dyi, like me, only has time to work on weekends. Has to prep the boat every time they begin the process. For me, at least the boat is across the street at my In-law's house, but just that backing the truck up across the street, hooking up the boat, backing the boat in to my driveway so I'm close to my garage and tools and supplies. Uncover the boat, grind down any buggers from the previous glassing phase, vacuum and wipe down. Climb in and out of the boat a million times because I am doing this 99.9% by myself. I mean, yeah I could have this done in 40 -70 hours with a helper and continuous work flow, but if any of you guys are following this thread and want to get an idea of how long this takes. Hey its a labor of love, right? Love is forever. Do it right, one time and your boat will love you back for decades to come.

I agree with you; those times are massive underestimates, especially for a first timer. Even tripling those numbers might be low, especially if you add in the time required to read/research how to do various steps you've never tried before.
 

shaw520

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Not including reading and researching I found those times to be somewhat accurate, and although I have done a half dozen boat rebuilds before, I'm far from a professional. You will see in my thread that someone made a comment about me working and fabricating inside the boat, and as much as I would love to have the resources to work neater outside the boat, this tactic saves a bunch of time climbing in and out of the boat. Through a tarp over everthing aND have all tools and materials already in the boat.... of course thereshe always SOMETHING you have to climb out for !!
 

Pete_a

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Nice build, also liked the lake havasu pics. I think the one girl saw you and has a you perv look. šŸ˜
 

rad1026

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443
Yeah, she probably did but I didn't care.

Supposed to be around 80 both Saturday and Sunday so I'm going to go at it hard and see if I can get the Starboard side engine mounts and stringers done. Got 2 more yards of 1708 yesterday so I can finish those up.
 

rad1026

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Spent about 8 hours this weekend finishing up the motor mounts and stringers. 3-4 layers of 1708 on the motor mounts and stringer tabs. Then a finish layer of chop strand over the stringers to water proof. So here I am guys, I'm ready to put the decks back on. Wow, I can kind of see this all coming together. I got a few bubbles here and there, I was just getting tired and the angles and positions to get back in some of the corners was tough, but I think overall it is incredibly strong. Is it strong enough to hold the motor? I've never done it before so I don't know. I know I will be freeking out the first time I put the boat in the water. What do you guys think, did I do enough?
 

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rad1026

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how time flies. Soon, very soon I will be able to fiberglass again.
 

rad1026

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I think I know the answer to this but thought I would ask just to be sure. My daughter has a couple gallons of epoxy resin and plenty of hardener. I am within a couple gallons of resin of finishing my project. Basically at the end of last year I was able to put the decking back in. I need to mix up putty to smooth the edges and match the two deck surfaces. Then I need to lay fiberglass over the deck. I would be laying fiberglass up to and overlapping areas that have already been done with polyester resin. Is this okay or will the two types of resin somehow not work together. I just don't want to spend any more in purchasing more resin if I can use what I have. Thanks for the help. I'm back on it soon.
 

rad1026

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okay, that's good news. I can save some money then. Does the epoxy respond similar to the poly in mixing up putty and hardener %?
 
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