1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

[jigngrub]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

You gotta love the way those Lunds are built! Good deck framing and drainage too.

A lot of folks on here including myself use the USComposites 635 thin epoxy, usually the 3:1 medium hardener mix.
Epoxy :?Epoxy Resins and Hardeners
As the name implies it is a thin mix and penetrates well.

I used the 1/2 gallon kit to do 4 coats on all the wood in my 17' deep V and also made fairing compound out of some of it:

With 4 coats it's like a sheet of glass over the top of your plywood:

I just did the top side and the edges on my plywood because the bottom on my plywood doesn't touch the foam and never gets wet, it still looks like brand new.

It looks like the bottom of your plywood may touch your foam in a few places, you may want to trim the foam down a little or coat both sides of your plywood with epoxy.

It looks like your foam is dry in the pics, but you should core sample it to make sure. Push a piece of 1/2 or 3/4" pvc pipe down through it to pull out a plug in the deepest part of the foam and check the bottom of it for moisture/water. If its wet you'll need to remove and replace the foam, if it's dry just push the plug of foam back in and go on with your decking.

You don't have to use marine grade plywood, but it is one of the best choices. Another good choice is MDO plywood, it's cheaper but it very high quality and waterproof. It's made for boat building, exterior sign making, and concrete form work.

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I am planning to go with marine plywood as I already have 1 sheet. On the main floor portion of the boat, someone earlier recommended joining the seams with csm. Do I do this before I apply the thin epoxy and then seal over everything? It looks Lund did nothing to join the wood together.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Don't join the wood, that's for fiberglass boats. Just make sure your joints break on a framing member.

Cut all of your decking pieces, apply several coats of epoxy, cover with your choice of finish (vinyl, or carpet) and then install like it came from the factory. This will enable you to remove your decking at a later date should the need arise to make repairs or modifications below deck without ruining your deck finish. You'll be able to remove the decking and put it back looking like it did before you removed it. This is a huge advantage aluminum boats have over fiberglass boats, and it eats at the soul of every fiberglass boat owner!:laugh::lol:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

If you seal the seams, don't mix CSM w/ epoxy. You'll need to use fiberglass that's intended for use w/ epoxy. CSM typically isn't, it's for use w/ polyester or vinylester resins (both are used in fiberglass boat construction).

You can use polyester resin & CSM to seal the seams &/or deck, then once sanded smooth, you can paint over it w/ your choice of floor finishes, or cover w/ carpet/vinyl.

If you'd prefer, you can use epoxy & fiberglass cloth, like those sold here (among other places) and MAKE sure to note that it's compatible w/ epoxy. The US Comp cloth IS compatible.....

As Jig suggests, sealing the seams (&/or screw/rivet holes), will make it much more difficult to remove a section of deck to inspect, modify or repair anything below decks.

One of the many advantages to tin boats is also that you could seal the plywood w/ several coats of spar varnish or even nothing. Starcraft originally didn't & they lasted for decades when well maintained & kept covered, Lund may have used a different build standard..... Neither of those options is even a remote possibility on a fiberglass boat build......

I don't recommend skipping the sealing step, boat resto work is a whole lot of work, you want to do as much as you're capable of & can afford, to minimize the chance of having to re-work some portions of the 'restored' boat again soon.

 

[low277]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I used the CPES from rot doctor, I coated both sides of the plywood a couple of times with extra on all of the edges. On my Lund the live well also is the drivers seat base, this was the only piece of plywood that appeared to have a coating of some sort on the bottom only which could get splashed with water from the live well. It was in pretty fair shape after 25 years.

I dont think the brand of the product is as important as putting something on it. If you use spar varnish and either keep the boat covered when not in use or park it in a garage or under a carport it should last a very long time.

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Don't join the wood, that's for fiberglass boats. Just make sure your joints break on a framing member.

Cut all of your decking pieces, apply several coats of epoxy, cover with your choice of finish (vinyl, or carpet) and then install like it came from the factory. This will enable you to remove your decking at a later date should the need arise to make repairs or modifications below deck without ruining your deck finish. You'll be able to remove the decking and put it back looking like it did before you removed it. This is a huge advantage aluminum boats have over fiberglass boats, and it eats at the soul of every fiberglass boat owner!:laugh::lol:

So how do i get the floor into the boat then? The main floor is 3 pieces that go around the fuel tank access. The joints are on a support stringer, but if I carpet the floor before putting it in, will it all staye together to get into the floor?

Also, is the best way to remove the glue off of metal surfaces with a wire wheel brush in a drill and a wire brush with elbow grease? Or is there some chemical to get the surfaces clean?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

So how do i get the floor into the boat then? The main floor is 3 pieces that go around the fuel tank access. The joints are on a support stringer, but if I carpet the floor before putting it in, will it all staye together to get into the floor?

Also, is the best way to remove the glue off of metal surfaces with a wire wheel brush in a drill and a wire brush with elbow grease? Or is there some chemical to get the surfaces clean?

You wrap each of the 3 pieces of decking individually and then install them one at a time. Wrap the carpet arount to the back of each piece with about a 2" lap, like this:

Staple the back lap of the carpet with stainless steel staples 3/8" long, this will keep the carpet nice and tight until the adhesive cures.

All of the wood pieces in my boat (see post #21) were done like this when I did the carpet to vinyl switch and they were done this way with the carpet at the factory too:

All of the fasteners are exposed for easy removal of the fasteners and the decking.

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Ok, when I took the floor out, it came out in 1 carpeted piece, but three pieces of wood. I guess I could just make it into 3 individual pieces, and do as you suggest, carpeting each one. THis would seem to be easier.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

I used the CPES from rot doctor, I coated both sides of the plywood a couple of times with extra on all of the edges. On my Lund the live well also is the drivers seat base, this was the only piece of plywood that appeared to have a coating of some sort on the bottom only which could get splashed with water from the live well. It was in pretty fair shape after 25 years.

I dont think the brand of the product is as important as putting something on it. If you use spar varnish and either keep the boat covered when not in use or park it in a garage or under a carport it should last a very long time.

I looked at the Rot Doctor CPES and the only big difference I could see between it and the USComposites 635 thin epoxy was the price, the Rot Doctor is 50% more than the 635 thin.

Rot Doctor=$60 for 1/2 gal (2 quart kit)

USComposites=$40 for the 1/2 gal kit (actually 5/8 gal)

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Day 2 in the books. I am on to the glue removal process. I found some 3M discs that fit onto a drill attachment that worked pretty good. I also have an old wire wheel, but it is small. So I finished one section of the boat and it was late in the afternoon. I will be ordering carpet and more wood this week. So things will be on hold for a few days.

Is there a better way to get rid of the glue and old carpet or am I on the right track? Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Old adhesive removal is the hardest part of a tinny restore. Some people have reported success with Goo Gone and Goof Off. I used a product called CitrusStrip to soften the adhesive and then used a sharp 2" wide wood chisel to scrape it off with, then I ran the wire wheel over everything to remove any residue.

Not much will be on hold while you're waiting for your supplies, you'll be battling the old adhesive for a few days.

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

sorry its been awhile since I was here, I have the same boat that you are restoring hope this helps.
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/1988-lund-1700-pro-v-dlx-317793.html

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Not sure if anyone is still out there, hopefully many of you are on the water. Summer and life have got in the way of the boat restoration. I am about to finish cutting the wood pieces and ready to epoxy this weekend. As I get ready to move onto the carpeting, I was wondering what type of staples you use on the back of the wood? I have a pneumatic stapler that shoots narrow crown staples (1/4"), will these work or are they too narrow? It looks like I pulled 1/2" wide staples out of the old pieces. Would a hand stapler be able to push staples all the way into the plywood after epoxy?

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

The carpet should be glued down so I would think you stapler should do the trick,..

 

[lokonn]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

You may find you will need to play with the air pressure on your narrow crown stapler in order to get the staples to not blow through carpet.

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

How about on vinyl? Should I use a wider crown staple for the vinyl on the side pieces? This is not vinyl flooring, just vinyl on the interior pieces.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Yes

The wider crown provides a larger 'clamping' area between the 2 prongs and, more importantly, spreads those prongs further apart. That helps prevent tear out, since they sort of act like separate fasteners.

Also as someone mentioned earlier about the carpet, the small crown may in fact blow thru the face of the vinyl if the air's not set just right.

 

[lund prov]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

The carpet has arrived and I have my pneumatic stapler, so let the carpet gluing commence.

Any tips or advice for a new carpet installer? I saved all the old carpet pieces to use as a template. Am I correct in that I apply the glue with the trowel, put on the carpet and smooth out with a roller, and then pull the carpet tight and fasten to the back with staples, then let dry. Or do I let the glue dry before attaching staples?

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

Hi, Its best to use A foam roller to apply the glue . You should not have to use a staple gun if you wrap the carpet around the wood. Another trick is to use a lighter to melt the frayed carpet edges, it makes for a clean edge

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1988 Lund Pro V 1700 interior rebuild

forgot to mention this make sure the carpet lays in the same direction