I heard the same thing from the owner of one of the best 'glass & paint shops on Long Island (Raybo Marine in Lindenhurst, Long Island). In fact he seemed to feel that wood was better at strength and flexibility, if the glass work was really done properly. That's the big IF.Only you can answer if $3000-$3500 for a restoration is worth it to you.
All exterior grade of plywood has waterproof glue.
Arauco plywood has 9 thinner plus (stringer) compared to the 5 thicker plys of the generic exterior plywood.
Coosa and other synthetic materials are great, but will add many thousands to the build. This is nice if you plan on keeping the boat forever. However does not add resale value should you go to sell it
Bayliner slapped these boats together in the 80s and 90s to get them out the door quickly and to make money. They were expected to last 10-15 years max and be replaced. In many cases, the fiberglass encapsulation was so bad, you could see wood grain under the gel in the bilge (because they just gel coated the wood)
Rebuilding with exterior plywood and poly will be the least expensive, and if you have proper workmanship, it will last longer than originally
To buy or rebuild..... If it's fiberglass anything under $10k should be considered a project until is proven it isn't.
The good news is many small production boat hulls built even 20 years ago have stringer tubs and fully composite decks (minimal to no wood). Conversely.....many of the small boat builders and the larger pocket cruisers, etc still use wood/balsa
The bad news, you can only flex that cyanoacrylate / methacrylate joint so many times before it or the FRP fails. So even today's boats have a design life if 15 years
You mention shrinkwrap may not be the best. Being that indoor storage is not an option for me, should I be doing shrink wrap, or just a heavy cover? We can get a lot of snow, so I've always thought of shrinkwrap as being better.Until you investigate typical areas of rot thourghly we can't honestly say either way, just advice from past experience.
Like otherwise stated we can be more accurate looking at photos.
Shrinkwrapped boats can hold high humidity levels if there is already moisture present, but is better than being uncovered, at least with the age of the boat. I can tell you the craftsmanship was horrible in '88.
Your boat could be an exception and I hope it is
I live in upstate NY we get alot also, I just make a frame under Mt tarp and haven't had an issue.You mention shrinkwrap may not be the best. Being that indoor storage is not an option for me, should I be doing shrink wrap, or just a heavy cover? We can get a lot of snow, so I've always thought of shrinkwrap as being better.
Could you post a picture of that frame you use? I've made one before, but always still ended up with a 200 lb block of ice on the cover after a storm.I live in upstate NY we get alot also, I just make a frame under Mt tarp and haven't had an issue.
i have been trying to point this out to people for years , glad to read somebody actually has the same knowledge of this you buite fancy plastic sheeting people swear is the bees knees of composite.Only you can answer if $3000-$3500 for a restoration is worth it to you.
All exterior grade of plywood has waterproof glue.
Arauco plywood has 9 thinner plus (stringer) compared to the 5 thicker plys of the generic exterior plywood.
Coosa and other synthetic materials are great, but will add many thousands to the build. This is nice if you plan on keeping the boat forever. However does not add resale value should you go to sell it
Bayliner slapped these boats together in the 80s and 90s to get them out the door quickly and to make money. They were expected to last 10-15 years max and be replaced. In many cases, the fiberglass encapsulation was so bad, you could see wood grain under the gel in the bilge (because they just gel coated the wood)
Rebuilding with exterior plywood and poly will be the least expensive, and if you have proper workmanship, it will last longer than originally
To buy or rebuild..... If it's fiberglass anything under $10k should be considered a project until is proven it isn't.
The good news is many small production boat hulls built even 20 years ago have stringer tubs and fully composite decks (minimal to no wood). Conversely.....many of the small boat builders and the larger pocket cruisers, etc still use wood/balsa
The bad news, you can only flex that cyanoacrylate / methacrylate joint so many times before it or the FRP fails. So even today's boats have a design life if 15 years
The last few years boat prices have been crazy. I recently noticed someone selling a Bayliner in way worse condition than mine for $4000.Gee, that 1990 SeaRay is priced about double what I would expect. It should be in the "any old boat is worth at least $2500" category.
I had a 19' 1988 SeaRay Sorrento. It had quality control issues. Some parts of the boat were very well built, other parts were poorly built. The hull even cracked on a strake, on a normal chop day on the bay. A surprise for sure.
I think you should either cheaply repair the Bayliner, or scrap it. I would use the cheapest poly resin and medium weight cloth and putty and standard AC or BC plywood, for the repairs. It will last 10 years. What more do you want?
Yes I agree now a restoration is best for me. Only change I might make is a larger engine compartment/platform instead of its current setup.i have been trying to point this out to people for years , glad to read somebody actually has the same knowledge of this you buite fancy plastic sheeting people swear is the bees knees of composite.
Op your best bet is a restoration if you are happy with the layout of the boat you have.
a quality resto will get you many more years of boating for a lot less outlay.
So during your rebuild, sell the 3.0 and 2:1 drive for $800 and buy a 4.3 and 1.8:1 drive for $1500That bigger engine sure would've been nice though
So during your rebuild, sell the 3.0 and 2:1 drive for $800 and buy a 4.3 and 1.8:1 drive for $1500
Is it complete from pulley to prop as you have to change everythingWell I have located a 4.3 Mercruiser set for $2000. Going to have a look at it tomorrow. I'm told its good running and was on the water this year. He offered for me to help pull it. So, at least I can make sure I get everything.
Yes, its all in a complete running boat. The seller is letting me help him pull it all out so I can make sure to get all the parts I need.Is it complete from pulley to prop as you have to change everything
Look at the link in my sigWhat do you all like to do to make a nice finish for a Gel Coat deck? I have never had fiberglass turn out nice and smooth. So, Gel Coating over it might not turn out well.