1988 Bayliner Restore or Replace

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,441
Only you can answer if $3000-$3500 for a restoration is worth it to you.

All exterior grade of plywood has waterproof glue.

Arauco plywood has 9 thinner plus (stringer) compared to the 5 thicker plys of the generic exterior plywood.

Coosa and other synthetic materials are great, but will add many thousands to the build. This is nice if you plan on keeping the boat forever. However does not add resale value should you go to sell it

Bayliner slapped these boats together in the 80s and 90s to get them out the door quickly and to make money. They were expected to last 10-15 years max and be replaced. In many cases, the fiberglass encapsulation was so bad, you could see wood grain under the gel in the bilge (because they just gel coated the wood)

Rebuilding with exterior plywood and poly will be the least expensive, and if you have proper workmanship, it will last longer than originally

To buy or rebuild..... If it's fiberglass anything under $10k should be considered a project until is proven it isn't.

The good news is many small production boat hulls built even 20 years ago have stringer tubs and fully composite decks (minimal to no wood). Conversely.....many of the small boat builders and the larger pocket cruisers, etc still use wood/balsa

The bad news, you can only flex that cyanoacrylate / methacrylate joint so many times before it or the FRP fails. So even today's boats have a design life if 15 years
I heard the same thing from the owner of one of the best 'glass & paint shops on Long Island (Raybo Marine in Lindenhurst, Long Island). In fact he seemed to feel that wood was better at strength and flexibility, if the glass work was really done properly. That's the big IF.
If I ever buy another boat it will be 3-5 years old. I don't have it in me to do another resto at my age!
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
Until you investigate typical areas of rot thourghly we can't honestly say either way, just advice from past experience.
Like otherwise stated we can be more accurate looking at photos.
Shrinkwrapped boats can hold high humidity levels if there is already moisture present, but is better than being uncovered, at least with the age of the boat. I can tell you the craftsmanship was horrible in '88.
Your boat could be an exception and I hope it is 😊
You mention shrinkwrap may not be the best. Being that indoor storage is not an option for me, should I be doing shrink wrap, or just a heavy cover? We can get a lot of snow, so I've always thought of shrinkwrap as being better.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,441
the problem with all covers is lack of ventilation.
I have a cover with a support frame so I don't have to use shrinkwrap, it does breath but still have moisture inside, even with moisture buckets etc.
shrinkwrap should have vents it does not breathe at all.
ultimately I should put vents in the cover.
 

88 Capri (2022 SOTY)

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 25, 2019
Messages
818
You mention shrinkwrap may not be the best. Being that indoor storage is not an option for me, should I be doing shrink wrap, or just a heavy cover? We can get a lot of snow, so I've always thought of shrinkwrap as being better.
I live in upstate NY we get alot also, I just make a frame under Mt tarp and haven't had an issue.
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
I live in upstate NY we get alot also, I just make a frame under Mt tarp and haven't had an issue.
Could you post a picture of that frame you use? I've made one before, but always still ended up with a 200 lb block of ice on the cover after a storm.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,748
Gee, that 1990 SeaRay is priced about double what I would expect. It should be in the "any old boat is worth at least $2500" category.

I had a 19' 1988 SeaRay Sorrento. It had quality control issues. Some parts of the boat were very well built, other parts were poorly built. The hull even cracked on a strake, on a normal chop day on the bay. A surprise for sure.

I think you should either cheaply repair the Bayliner, or scrap it. I would use the cheapest poly resin and medium weight cloth and putty and standard AC or BC plywood, for the repairs. It will last 10 years. What more do you want?
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,034
Only you can answer if $3000-$3500 for a restoration is worth it to you.

All exterior grade of plywood has waterproof glue.

Arauco plywood has 9 thinner plus (stringer) compared to the 5 thicker plys of the generic exterior plywood.

Coosa and other synthetic materials are great, but will add many thousands to the build. This is nice if you plan on keeping the boat forever. However does not add resale value should you go to sell it

Bayliner slapped these boats together in the 80s and 90s to get them out the door quickly and to make money. They were expected to last 10-15 years max and be replaced. In many cases, the fiberglass encapsulation was so bad, you could see wood grain under the gel in the bilge (because they just gel coated the wood)

Rebuilding with exterior plywood and poly will be the least expensive, and if you have proper workmanship, it will last longer than originally

To buy or rebuild..... If it's fiberglass anything under $10k should be considered a project until is proven it isn't.

The good news is many small production boat hulls built even 20 years ago have stringer tubs and fully composite decks (minimal to no wood). Conversely.....many of the small boat builders and the larger pocket cruisers, etc still use wood/balsa

The bad news, you can only flex that cyanoacrylate / methacrylate joint so many times before it or the FRP fails. So even today's boats have a design life if 15 years
i have been trying to point this out to people for years , glad to read somebody actually has the same knowledge of this you buite fancy plastic sheeting people swear is the bees knees of composite.

Op your best bet is a restoration if you are happy with the layout of the boat you have.
a quality resto will get you many more years of boating for a lot less outlay.

you may even be able to factor in that 4.3 if your budget allows.
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
Gee, that 1990 SeaRay is priced about double what I would expect. It should be in the "any old boat is worth at least $2500" category.

I had a 19' 1988 SeaRay Sorrento. It had quality control issues. Some parts of the boat were very well built, other parts were poorly built. The hull even cracked on a strake, on a normal chop day on the bay. A surprise for sure.

I think you should either cheaply repair the Bayliner, or scrap it. I would use the cheapest poly resin and medium weight cloth and putty and standard AC or BC plywood, for the repairs. It will last 10 years. What more do you want?
The last few years boat prices have been crazy. I recently noticed someone selling a Bayliner in way worse condition than mine for $4000.

Ultimately, after everything everyone has said I agree its best to fix up my Bayliner rather than buy another old boat. That bigger engine sure would've been nice though
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
i have been trying to point this out to people for years , glad to read somebody actually has the same knowledge of this you buite fancy plastic sheeting people swear is the bees knees of composite.

Op your best bet is a restoration if you are happy with the layout of the boat you have.
a quality resto will get you many more years of boating for a lot less outlay.
Yes I agree now a restoration is best for me. Only change I might make is a larger engine compartment/platform instead of its current setup.

I really only thought composite was going to be better because of the price of marine plywood. However, now knowing to use the much cheaper Arauco plywood, I will be sticking with wood.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,884
Buy an aluminum boat, you won't have the rotten wood issues, and if there s...much easier to fix!! They have better resale, and generally sell quick. Only owned one glass boat in my 60 years of boat ownership, never again. Alum gives a better return on your money.
 

88 Capri (2022 SOTY)

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 25, 2019
Messages
818
I don't have pictures but I plan on fabricating one out of pvc pipe this year, when we get the heavy wet snow I would clean it off because of the hundreds of pounds it would add.
Getting the right bow configuration should allow it to mostly slide off although not totally.
 

ScottinAZ

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
820
So during your rebuild, sell the 3.0 and 2:1 drive for $800 and buy a 4.3 and 1.8:1 drive for $1500

yep, its getting on towards the end of the season in many areas, and those "marginal" boats are gonna be showing up on Craigslist for $300-$800. get one with a janky hull, and a good engine, strip it for any parts you need, and take the rest to the dump. Sell the trailer to help offset the costs.

As for restoring or getting newer, at least for me, its always been get the "cheaper" boat, and put the money and work into that, rather than gamble that the prior owner was being honest in the issues, and then you find that you have to do the same scope of work (or more) when the problems rear their ugly heads..... At least if I know I did the floor, I know what materials I used, I can set it up the way I want it, and I can use the colder non-boating months to go through the engine and drive to hopefully insure that I have no issues come boating season. I have the theory that you will spend the same amount on a boat no matter what.... either in parts/labor, or outright at purchase. There is no getting around that boats are not cheap, but my way, I dont have a monthly payment, and I know what I have on the water, and am (hopefully) not waiting for the other shoe to drop, or go through that well hidden soft spot in the floor right next to the ski locker or directly over the fuel tank.....
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
Yes, I will definitely add in the mounts for the 4.3L while doing my rebuild. Hopefully a good deal will show up over the winter months.
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
Well I have located a 4.3 Mercruiser set for $2000. Going to have a look at it tomorrow. I'm told its good running and was on the water this year. He offered for me to help pull it. So, at least I can make sure I get everything.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,040
Well I have located a 4.3 Mercruiser set for $2000. Going to have a look at it tomorrow. I'm told its good running and was on the water this year. He offered for me to help pull it. So, at least I can make sure I get everything.
Is it complete from pulley to prop as you have to change everything
 

boatrup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
47
What do you all like to do to make a nice finish for a Gel Coat deck? I have never had fiberglass turn out nice and smooth. So, Gel Coating over it might not turn out well.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,040
What do you all like to do to make a nice finish for a Gel Coat deck? I have never had fiberglass turn out nice and smooth. So, Gel Coating over it might not turn out well.
Look at the link in my sig
 
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