1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project

britisher

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

I'm doing a total refurb on my 98 Sea Ray bowrider and have to install all new stringers. I was going to use 3/4" ply joined together as the stringers are 12 feet long and ply is only 8 feet long. After 2 unsuccessful attempts at joining, I simply bought 3/4 inch solid wood in 12 foot lengths and all is now good on the boat. No joins, the gas tank has no space issues. If you can take out what's left of the old stringers, I'd do that and install new ones with no joins. It's gotta be the best route long term.
 

Lukie46

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Mar 7, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

Ricky, I cannot put a splice plate on both sides of the stringer. I will not have enough space to install my gas tank. I know that a scarf joint is an angled joint between the two pieces. Can I do a scarf joint on the edge of the stringers? Does it have to be on the side of the stringer? If so, that will be much more difficult for me to do. I went to the West System website and it looked like they did a 12:1 on the edge of the stringer. Can I do a scarf joint along with a splice block on the outside only, like "tpenfield" suggested? If I do a scarf joint, does the orientation of the angle matter? Please see the attached picture.

Stringer.jpg
 

rickryder

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - How Do I Scarf The Stringers?

Orientation of the angle shouldn't matter. here's a good read on butt and scarf joints that may be helpful. They show a butt with a splice block on one side only. http://www.glen-l.com/wood-plywood/scarf-butt.html

I would love to see a pic of the area your working on a bit further back to get a wider view ;) There may be another way around this.



Rick
 

Lukie46

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Mar 7, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

Guys, I used PL adhesive for my transom and it came out great. I used PL adhesive to bond a cleat to my stringer and that did not work out so well. I guess my question is, will PL adhesive bond to poly resin? This is what I did. I waterproofed my stinger with poly resin and then I waterproofed the cleat. I applied PL adhesive to the cleat and attached it to the stringer using a few clamps. I used SS 1/4" crown staples for added strength. The cleat and stringer were originally fiberglassed together, so I was going to do the same thing. The only other thing that I can add, is that it was about 95 degrees in my garage when I was doing this, and it appeared that the PL was setting up before I was able to get the stringer and cleat clamped, so back to my original question, will PL adhesive bond to poly resin? Thank you all for your help.
 

britisher

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

Lukie,
I'm working my way thro a hull bottom up restore on my SR 180 as all the wood was rotten. Like in Friscoboaters thread I replaced my transom using PL to glue the 2 x 3/4" panels together and they worked fine. I replaced my stringers with solid timber as ply wasn't long enough and I tried jointing but it failed miserably. The stringers were resined. I also added 'cleats', which were 2' x 1" timber to the edges of the stringers. They too were resined before I used the PL glue to join them together. I clamped them while drying and also screwed them together using 1&3/4" x #8 SS woodscrews. I have not had any issues, apart from the bubbling with the PL, which Friscoboater experienced. I am working outside on my boat in the Florida sun and humidity and generally it's been in the high 80's and mid 90's.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'not so well'? The appearance of the bond is of less importance to me than the function. It's function before form IMO and it's below decks, so no-one can see. So long as it holds, I'm good.
 

Lukie46

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Messages
51
Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - PL Adhesive Question

The not so well comment meant that I was able to pull the cleat away from the stringer. The bond was poor. I may have squeezed too much of the PL out between the stringer and cleat. I will give it another try.
 

SDSeville

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Transom Tabbed and Skinned

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Transom Tabbed and Skinned

Well, I finally finished tabbing and skinning the middle transom. I think it came out well. I spotted a couple of small bubbles, but all in all, I am happy with it. The black lines on the transom were made from using a marker which I used to help me line up the fiberglass. I figure it will look fine once I gelcoat it.
View attachment 150407

Why gelcoat the inside skin of a transom?
 

britisher

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Feb 23, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Transom Tabbed and Skinned

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Transom Tabbed and Skinned

Don't worry about the marker lines, mine has them all over, the deck too as I marked where the cleats were so I could screw in accurately. I painted my transom with gel coat, 2 coats, the last with wax. I can only guess that gel coat, like any other surface coating is a protectant against moisture intrusion plus it makes it look nice. I gel coated my gas tank bay and the ski locker area, but both those areas I was not happy with how the gel coat dried. I followed the instructions, but the damn stuff is still tacky and all sorts of stuff sticks to it. I can only hope that in time, it will go off.
On the PL glue and the cleat, the glue takes over 48 hours to cure and even then it can still be pried apart fairly easily. Once again, I think allowing time to takes it time helps build the bond.
 

Lukie46

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Guys, I am about to install my stingers. What is the general opinion on installing a small drain hole in a stringer? I was thinking about installing a small hole at the end of the stringer next to the transom. I could keep a plug in it and remove it periodically during storage. I am not if this is good or bad. My boat lasted 25 years with out it. I am concerned that with this being my first boat restore, that water will still find its way into places that I don't want it to go.
 

SDSeville

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

I put holes by the transom, gas tank, and ski locker to get the water away from the stringers.
 

Lukie46

Seaman
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Mar 7, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Capping Stringers

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Capping Stringers

Guys, I am almost done tabbing in my stringers and would like to know how to cap the stringers. I have read articles in which mechanical means were used (S.S. staples) and I have read other techniques on this forum. I also would like to know what material I should use. I am tabbing the stringers with 1708, so I figured I would use 1708 to cap the stringers as well. I also have the option to use 1.5 oz CSM. Thank you for your replies.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

The last sentence in the drawing explains it. Cut strips of 3" CSM and TUG and Tear them to loosen the fibers. Use a chip brush and coat the top of the stringer and the top sides with resin and then apply the CSM "Dabbing" with the brush NOT stroking. You have to use your hands and finger too!!!
Stringers.jpg
 

Lukie46

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Mar 7, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

I take it that loosening up the fibers will allow the CSM to make the bend easier. Is that correct?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Stringer Drain Holes

You got it!;) Don't want any air bubbles. How thick are your stringers? If they're only 3/4" it's really tough to wrap em. with out bubbles.
 

Lukie46

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Mar 7, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Seat Boxes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Seat Boxes

Guys, I have been away for a while, time to get back to my restore project. I wanted to start looking at making the seat boxes for my lounge seats and rear seats between the engine. I know this sounds simple, but I am hoping to get good advice or articles on how to make the boxes and how to properly fiberglass them. As always, thank you for the help and I look forward to continuing my restore.
 

britisher

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Feb 23, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Seat Boxes

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Seat Boxes

Welcome back Lukie. I did a resto on an 89 Sea Ray 180 BR last year (from Mar thru October). What is the seat arrangement at the back of your boat? Mine was the full width engine cover/sun pad with a 3 cushion bench in front. One side was a cooler box, the other a storage box and in the middle Sea Ray used a series of carpet covered panels to make a box like shape in the middle. I did a redesign on the middle section and built a complete box that pushes in/out. If your is the same as mine, I can post some pics.
 

sackers

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Feb 23, 2012
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project

Hey there, I'm in the same boat as you guys :facepalm: In the process of cutting out my stringers on '88 seville. This is also my first boat restore/bandage, and just wanted to say thank you for all of your posts and questions that I can follow to make my project a little easier. I keep hitting those stages of "what have I got myself into." and "Maybe craigslist has another cheap boat for sale" :) Looking at your pictures and posts keep pushing me on to the next step (I have a lot more to go).

So just wanted to say Thanks for the indirect help! :happy:
 

kabookey

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 12, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project

Aha! I am also in the midst of re-restoring my '87 Seville so I will be following this thread closely. Best of luck.
 

Lukie46

Seaman
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Mar 7, 2012
Messages
51
Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Deck Installation

Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project - Deck Installation

Guys, I am getting very close to installing my deck. I will do my best to expalin the construction of my deck. It is basically in three sections. A left and right section that goes from the edge of the stringer to the bottom curved section of my hull. The deck does not go all the way to the side of the hull and then I have a middle section which is basically the top of the gas tank and ski locker. I did not have to remove the deck and seats from the bow the wood was solid, so my restore is from the back of the boat to the beginning of the bow section.

My question is, how many layers and what type of fiberglass should to I put down on the deck? (I plan on covering my deck with carpet). I was thinking of one layer of CSM and one layer of 1708, but I am not sure. As always, thank you for your help.
 

Lukie46

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Mar 7, 2012
Messages
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville Bow Rider Restore Project

I haven't posted pictures in a while, here is a few.
IMG_2456.JPGIMG_2457.JPG
 
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