1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,723
The regulator will cure the overpressure.

There have been a few high pressure issues recently with mechanical pumps.

Did you install the spacer on the pump?
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
The regulator will cure the overpressure.

There have been a few high pressure issues recently with mechanical pumps.

Did you install the spacer on the pump?
As far as I know it's the original pump from 1987. I bought a new one at the parts store today, but after getting home and comparing, I'm guessing I need a marine-specific pump. The one I got doesn't have a flared line inlet and doesn't have the vent line nipple. I went ahead and picked up a regulator though and got started on installing that. Nobody around me had 3/8" hard line to make a new fuel line with, so I had to order some. Should be here Tuesday.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,723
Summit Racing has Carter marine pumps for under $50

And yes you need a marine pump
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
Made a bracket to better manage my remote oil filter hoses. It bolts to the back of the manifold and will keep the hoses from rubbing against each other and against the edge of the bilge.

I've got the bracket for the fuel pressure regulator made and the pump-to-regulator hard line bent and flared. Should be able to knock out the regulator-to-carb hard line tomorrow.

20230610_075919.jpg

20230610_075926.jpg
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
Regulator installed, fuel pressure set to about 3.5 psi in the driveway. Going out tomorrow with it to see how it does, with some friends ready to tow if it floods out again. I threw away probably 4 iterations of the hard lines before I got ones I was happy with. Good thing I bought 25 ft of hard line! 😂
20230624_110303.jpg
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
Boat is still running great, but today one half of my whale tail pulled off and took some of the cavitation plate with it. :oops: I'm just going to ditch the other half of the whale tail and enjoy the boat the rest of the season, then this winter when I pull the drive I'll weld in some aluminum plate and repaint it.

20230730_162708.jpg

20230730_162715.jpg
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Hard to think water pressure did that, maybe u struck a log or something?
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
I mean it's possible. We were watching pretty close for wood, but I know you're never gonna see all of it. Whatever it was, I'm thankful that was the only damage.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,723
My guess is micro cracks started over the years. Once they started it's only a few more cycles until failure. You should see larger and larger beach marks radiating outward from the mounting holes
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
I winterized the boat last weekend. We wanted to do a fall leaf tour of the gorge, but my truck's transmission died 2 weeks ago, so no more boat hauling till that's fixed. Since the drive is off, I went ahead and started fixing the places where the whale tail broke off.

This is what I started with:
20231105_123830.jpg


Sanded back the paint and cut some plate to fit the first missing chunk.
20231105_132212.jpg

Welded top and bottom:
20231105_140204.jpg


Blending the repair:
20231105_143943.jpg


Finished with the first one:
20231105_145013.jpg


Welding the 2nd missing chunk and holes where the whale tail was bolted on:
20231105_172357.jpg

20231105_172349.jpg

I still need to trim the 2nd plate and blend everything in, then it'll be ready for paint.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Messages
608
Here's why I asked:
I remember using some 5356 on soft extrusion once because we ran out of 4043. The welds were pretty, with pre-heat and good penetration. However, a couple of days later, those parts literally fell apart at the fusion line. Material mis-match caused some sort of crystallization I suppose.

So, I avoided using that wire until someone brought me a casting from a traffic signal base. The 4043 wouldn't even bond. But (you guessed it) the 5356 worked like a charm!.

So when I see a casting of unknown material, I have to wonder if it is in the 4043 range, or in the 5XXXX - 6XXXX range. Based on my limited knowledge, I will always default to 4043 to start with, rather than the other way around.
It certainly work on your repair, and looks great, by the way. :)
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,315
Here's why I asked:
I remember using some 5356 on soft extrusion once because we ran out of 4043. The welds were pretty, with pre-heat and good penetration. However, a couple of days later, those parts literally fell apart at the fusion line. Material mis-match caused some sort of crystallization I suppose.

So, I avoided using that wire until someone brought me a casting from a traffic signal base. The 4043 wouldn't even bond. But (you guessed it) the 5356 worked like a charm!.

So when I see a casting of unknown material, I have to wonder if it is in the 4043 range, or in the 5XXXX - 6XXXX range. Based on my limited knowledge, I will always default to 4043 to start with, rather than the other way around.
It certainly work on your repair, and looks great, by the way. :)
Good info to have! I don't even have any 5356 filler, so it's safe to say I 100% rolled the dice! Hope it holds...if not, grind, rinse, and repeat.
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
345
Interesting about the 5356 on that casting. I've always used 4043 myself on castings and have only had a weakness in the heat affected zone
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Messages
608
Interesting about the 5356 on that casting. I've always used 4043 myself on castings and have only had a weakness in the heat affected zone

To be clear, I normally used 4043 on the extrusions that I was fabricating with, but I ran out and substituted 5356, which led to the delayed failure.
That's where the failure occurred; in the heat affected zone. Where the weld stopped and the parent metal remained. It was a clean separation.
It held initially.

As for not being able to use 4043 on the particular casting that I mentioned, it simply wouldn't fuse, as I recall. It just wadded up. My memory is a bit foggy at this point. It's been decades.
 
Top