1985 Beachcraft Cuddy Model 240C rehab

[docben]

Bought this boat recently and decided to at least get the stern area cleaned up and repair the old rotted wood. I have read many other restoration projects and links. I am not wanting to do the full boat at this point, just make the stern area solid enough for the rebuilt OMC 5.7L engine and 800 series sterndrive. Engine to be pulled this week, I hope. I know there is rot, not sure how far it goes toward the cabin and bow. Need the boat operational by March.

For sure, lots of work to do.

 

[redneck joe]

The transom will have rot

 

[todhunter]

Need the boat operational by March.

March 2025? You better get started!

 

[docben]

March 2025? You better get started!

Depends on how anal and perfectionist I get. LOL.

 

[docben]

The transom will have rot

Amazing crystal ball you have.

 

[redneck joe]

Amazing crystal ball you have.

It is.

 

[docben]

It is.

Happy to report no sign of rotting in the transom area. The wood core is quite solid, despite the surface looking suspect. I think someone needs a new crystal ball.

So now that engine is out using a mobile crane, on to the restoration. Will need to mark where the old mount holes were and be sure the engine line up is accurate.

 

[matt167]

Drill and check for dry shavings while you can.

 

[docben]

Drill and check for dry shavings while you can.

Yes, thanks. Wondering if I can re-size the distances between the engine mounts so as to provide more room. The side that has the starter had a very small gap and near impossible to get a hand down and in between the mount edge and the starter motor. I assume the mounts will need to be marine grade wood with the fiberglass covering? Need to see what others have done.

 

[matt167]

I/O boats are are never easy to work on. The stringer drive transfers the thrust directly to the stringers. It doesn’t put much pressure on the transom under way, so the mounts are tied to the stringers. You can’t change that. And you need to make sure that the stringers are solid. The black tells it probably isn’t… as for wood. Just exterior grade plywood tabbed and glassed/ encapsulated with 1708 will do. Visit the restoration stickies

 

[todhunter]

Marine plywood is a waste of money for most fiberglass boat restorations. Exterior grade ACX works just fine. That transom wood looks suspect.

 

[docben]

I/O boats are are never easy to work on. The stringer drive transfers the thrust directly to the stringers. It doesn’t put much pressure on the transom under way, so the mounts are tied to the stringers. You can’t change that. And you need to make sure that the stringers are solid. The black tells it probably isn’t… as for wood. Just exterior grade plywood tabbed and glassed/ encapsulated with 1708 will do. Visit the restoration stickies

Today some drill testing was done. Definitely more rot in some places but not in others. The major concern for me is where the engine sits between large stringers. White shavings are fiberglass and the darker ones wood rot.

Overall not too many places of extensive rot. Salvageable.

 

[docben]

Today some drill testing was done. Definitely more rot in some places but not in others. The major concern for me is where the engine sits between large stringers. White shavings are fiberglass and the darker ones wood rot.

Overall not too many places of extensive rot. Salvageable.

Once I remove the old rotted wood, I plan to use pour foam to fill the spaces where the wood was. Looks like US Composites are the folks to buy from and using a 4 lb foam density is ideal.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Once I remove the old rotted wood, I plan to use pour foam to fill the spaces where the wood was. Looks like US Composites are the folks to buy from and using a 4 lb foam density is ideal.

the wood is structural. you need to replace the wood.

removing the wood is like removing your spine

 

[redneck joe]

Yeah you dont want to mount your engine block to foam.

 

[docben]

the wood is structural. you need to replace the wood.

removing the wood is like removing your spine

You old farts are killing me. LOL. Of course not! You have the disadvantage of not being here looking at what I do. and looking at 2 dimensional photos. To clarify...the rotted wood has ZIP, NADA, to do with the engine mounts. The rotted wood was a piece about 2 feet by 1 foot and max 1/2 inch thick and was over an air pocket. What I am doing, is putting in foam below where this wood was to fill the air pocket.

 

[88 Capri (2022 SOTY)]

I'm not able to physically see what you are but at the end of the day you don't want to create an artificial reef with your boat because of a timetable you have.

 

[docben]

I'm not able to physically see what you are but at the end of the day you don't want to create an artificial reef with your boat because of a timetable you have.

Good advice, thanks. I have been reading most of the posts on resins, glass, etc. I will try and get better photos showing better dimensional views. Wondering if just using epoxy V poly is better. Seems people have their biases.

Further clarification...the rotted wood gets replaced with wood and foam below it.

 

[docben]

Good advice, thanks. I have been reading most of the posts on resins, glass, etc. I will try and get better photos showing better dimensional views. Wondering if just using epoxy V poly is better. Seems people have their biases.

Further clarification...the rotted wood gets replaced with wood and foam below it.

Picked up some resin at Lowes. Has anyone used this brand before? The label says its polyester polymer (trade secret), styrene monomer, silica.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the fiberglass at lowes has wax in it and it is double the price of good boat yard resin. so if you have to stop, you have to sand before you can start again.

did you not read the links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b? https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/