1985 Bayliner 2750 Ciera Sunbridge Resto

Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
337
What’s your plan for the headliner? how are you installing? I’m not at that point but thinking about options going forward. Love to hear your plan.
looking good
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
What’s your plan for the headliner? how are you installing? I’m not at that point but thinking about options going forward. Love to hear your plan.
looking good
I'm using white FRP for the headliner with 1/2" foam and reflectix underneath. I'll secure the FRP with 1/4" varnished cedar planks using SS screws and finishing washers. For the ceiling lights I've already installed, I bought some nylon standoffs/spacers to make them flush mount; I kinda wish I'd waited and bought some better looking lights for a recessed look.

This will cover the main area, but the forward area over the V-berth with the windows is going to be tricky for me with so many compound curves. I've started coating the ceiling there and all the hull sides with white gelcoat in the meantime. I'm leaning toward gluing EVA decking foam (the texture kinda provides a finished look) where I don't have to worry about wiring access as condensation barrier/insulation and the white gelcoat beneath can help mask any minor mistakes I'll make.
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
Minor update: I've gelcoated most of the cabin interior, and it has surprisingly helped A LOT with the outside heat thus far. Previously, it was unbearable past 90 degrees in the cabin, and now it's like being in the shade with the portholes open. I've decided to go ahead with insulating the cabin, starting with the ceiling. I'm using self-adhesive 3/8" mylar-faced PE closed-cell foam. If the self-adhesive begins to fail, I'll fix it with contact cement:
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As a little experiment, I used some EVA decking foam around the base of the dinette seat boxes to cover the rough plywood. I want to see how well the self-adhesive sticks in a hot cabin on an uneven surface. I'm very pleased with the aesthetics:
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Next, I didn't like the painted rough wood appearance of some of my head pieces, so I tried out some vinyl coverings. This stuff did not like uneven surfaces, so there are a few wrinkles I can live with.
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For the sink top, I contact cemented 1/16" PVC sheeting under the vinyl covering. I originally wanted to used formica, but could not find any in small quantities.

I also hung the door to head: getting all the old screw holes to line up required some persuading of the shower pan
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eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
I finished assembling the wood pieces of the head:
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For my first sewing project, I made a snap-in EVA piece for the dinette. I backed it with black vinyl made for chairs to roll on (wasn't really sure what to use) with 1" sunbrella binding. The sewing is imperfect, but it was good practice for me.
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I finished insulating the cabin ceiling (sans above the V-berth) and started installing the FRP panels.
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The multi-compound curves by the head have been tricky, but the "FRP" panels I bought were actually PVC. I'm trying to take advantage of this by heating and bending it around the curves as much as possible. I still have to figure out trim pieces for the seams.
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Lastly, I bought some 1/4" PE foam to insulate the cabin walls and begin installing it with Dap Weldwood contact cement.
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eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
It's been a while, so I thought I'd share a little update:
My 70s era bay boat was beginning to show wood rot, and the heavy square tubing steel trailer also rusted to the point of being unsafe. I've had a functional boat all my adult life, so a working boat takes priority over my projects. The used boat market is still crazy, so I actually bought new for the first time. It's a Frontier 2104 (Kenner hull):
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Anyway, I bought it bare bones to save money, and all my boat bucks have been spent rigging it out. The modern Suzuki outboard on it is extremely fuel efficient and is already allowing me to gradually venture further offshore, which is good experience for when the Bayliner is ready to go.
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
I've still been working on the Bayliner, just been tackling some elbow grease projects I hadn't completed. The blue gelcoat matching on the port side from a year ago had an issue on the last coat where the temperature dropped too low and never completely cured. I hoped it would harden more if I waited a year, but I still wasted LOTS of gummed-up sandpaper to get it polished out.
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This allowed me to finally install the two portlights on that side with butyl tape.

Next, I've struggled trying to find a good solution for the archway by the V-berth. I finally just glued oversized FRP there, sanded it to fit, then glued oversized vinyl trim on the exposed edge. I carefully trimmed the vinyl trim with a razor and installed new reading lights.
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On the bow pulpit, I'd almost forgotten it when cold weather prevented me from finishing months ago. I fixed all the gelcoat chips, polished it out, and reinstalled (sorry, no pic).
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
348
The fore deck hatch/emergency escape I remade early in this project developed a crack in the glass last year from the hole I drilled in the glass; it was a single crack that I could live with, but last spring, the glass sprung more cracks after some weather changes. Instead of ordering new, pre-drilled glass, I decided to make the hatch a solid piece. There is plenty of natural light with the existing windows, and I'd rather have a solid area to walk on in that area of the deck.

I tried my hand at making a molded fiberglass part with non-skid. I used tempered hardboard for the smooth part of the mold with 2×4 scraps glued behind for support.
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The non-skid pattern is the cover for a drop ceiling light (from Home Depot). This stuff was terribly brittle and did not cut well with any circular saw or jigsaw blade. The corners were radiused with plasticine clay. I used 6 layers of paste wax on the mold.
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The glassing schedule was 3 layers of brushed gelcoat, 2 layers 1708, 1/4" plywood, 2 more layers of 1708, then 2 layers of gelcoat with wax in the final layer.
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The tempered hardboard popped off easily when done, but the plastic/non-skid pattern just wanted to shatter into small pieces. I wound up having to use a heat gun to make it pliable enough to pull it off the part, which was still very time consuming.
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Excess glass was trimmed and sanded flat on the backside. I then polished the smooth parts of the front side.
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The non-skid turned out fairly consistent and functional, but I'll find an easier way to do it in the future.

This little project took me a lot longer than it should have, but it was good learning experience.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,775
pretty sure the light diffuser was posted about 15-20 years ago on one of the builds on iBoats. still a great hack.
 
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