1984 Starcraft 16ft Glutton for Punishment [Splashed July 2019]

[SHSU]

Lots of guys use the supertech 2 stroke oil (warren oil) The xlf is a good oil as far as im concerned but if your having issues oil brand is normally the last thing id ever look at .What people use for oil and whats best is fodder for millions of pages of arguments with very little proof to back anything up.Now if it would ever stop raining maybe id get something done,this summer sucks.

LOL, so true. You can find anything to back up an argument on the internet. Plus someone to tell you its wrong.

 

[EchoNovember]

The oil argument exists for motorcycles, boats, cars, anything with an engine.

My biggest reason for switching is to hopefully reduce smoke output.

 

[82rude]

The oil argument exists for motorcycles, boats, cars, anything with an engine.

My biggest reason for switching is to hopefully reduce smoke output.

That is a valid objective for sure.I use to use an oil in my old 90 evinrude called g-oil It was a synth oil made from cow tallow and other synth stuff and smelled like french fries in oil.Biggest issue was it made me hungry and guys would follow me around and shout out orders to me,lol.

 

[SHSU]

That is a valid objective for sure.I use to use an oil in my old 90 evinrude called g-oil It was a synth oil made from cow tallow and other synth stuff and smelled like french fries in oil.Biggest issue was it made me hungry and guys would follow me around and shout out orders to me,lol.

:rofl:

 

[SHSU]

Ok, so its been a while since I posted project pics, so here are some updates:

Finished the control box:



Another rivet picture:



Removed the Knee bracket (Before)



Under the Knee bracket:



After Cleaning (Note I have one to many holes....):

Going to seal with some JB weld or brazing sticks

Decided I would start trying some Aluminum Brazing sticks to fill some holes on the gunwale. Not as pretty as I would like and not sure if I am going cover with something. But in case anyone else is thinking about it:






And Finally, pics of some stuff I got from Gander Mountain closeout. Going back for some more.

 

[82rude]

I see west marine has a kit now that you mix and put in a syringe then you heat up rivet with a heat gun or propane torch then inject a bit of the mixture and it sucks into the rivet like doing plumbing pipes and seals it up.Interesting.

 

[EchoNovember]

Can you link that or post the name of the product so we can find it? That sounds interesting...

 

[SHSU]

Pretty sure this is the stuff. Looks like you would only use it on the rivets you know are leaking. I can't imagine doing it on all of them... Yet I am re-riveting the boat....

http://www.iboats.com/G-Flex-Epoxy-West-System/dm/view_id.1185406

 

[82rude]

Yes thats it ,looks good for know leakers expecially if your not doing a total rerivet job .SHSU what did you use to clean the inside of the boat looks like you got her pretty clean.Sorry i never noticed in your pics you must of had the 2 center i beams correct?Could you post a link to that fasco stuff thanks?You can put it in my thread if you want to .

 

[Watermann]

Nice work uncovering that damage under the knee brace, so many guys overlook that step.

Something for you to think about as an alternative to heating that area so close to the transom seam and trying to just plug the hole. The knee brace takes some pretty strong forces from the motor and that area is obviously weakened with pitting and a hole. One of the accepted practices is to use an oversize patch over the area on the outer hull under the effected area. The patch effectively reinforces the knee brace base and distributes the forces.

[USER][/USER] can show you some pics of his work to form the patch and secure it to the hull. I think his thread has had the pics eaten by PB but he's been helping others by posting the pics to their threads.

 

[SHSU]

Yes thats it ,looks good for know leakers expecially if your not doing a total rerivet job .SHSU what did you use to clean the inside of the boat looks like you got her pretty clean.Sorry i never noticed in your pics you must of had the 2 center i beams correct?Could you post a link to that fasco stuff thanks?You can put it in my thread if you want to .

Since I was going to be re-riveting I wanted to make sure I had a clean boat. I paid a couple hundred to have her completely media blasted. That is how she got so clean, and yes I removed the two center beams. I found one additional one up under the bow piece as well. Once I get everything re-riveted I will reinstall.

See below link for Fasco:
http://fascoepoxies.com/Fasco-9xw-Steel-Flex-Epoxy-Coating-White.html

 

[SHSU]

Nice work uncovering that damage under the knee brace, so many guys overlook that step.

Something for you to think about as an alternative to heating that area so close to the transom seam and trying to just plug the hole. The knee brace takes some pretty strong forces from the motor and that area is obviously weakened with pitting and a hole. One of the accepted practices is to use an oversize patch over the area on the outer hull under the effected area. The patch effectively reinforces the knee brace base and distributes the forces.

[USER][/USER] can show you some pics of his work to form the patch and secure it to the hull. I think his thread has had the pics eaten by PB but he's been helping others by posting the pics to their threads.

For some reason, I think some of your post is missing.

That is a good point I hadn't thought of, but I can't take all the credit. My knee brace is broken and had to remove it anyways. That is why i found it.... Looking at it, it looks almost to clean to be normal pitting Almost like some drilled a hole and missed what they were aiming for. The extra piece under that knee bracket to seal the hole, are you thinking welding or riveting it into place?

 

[Watermann]

Yeah for some reason the classiccat didn't make it through. I would personally bed the patch in 5200 and solid rivet it in place. No way I would weld that close to the transom seam, you would burn out the sealer in the seam. It's acknowledged in most boat restoration circles that welding on a riveted boat is the last resort.

There are some other pits that are pretty large and in the pic that extra hole doesn't look drilled, it's not round.

 

[EchoNovember]

For some reason, I think some of your post is missing.

That is a good point I hadn't thought of, but I can't take all the credit. My knee brace is broken and had to remove it anyways. That is why i found it.... Looking at it, it looks almost to clean to be normal pitting Almost like some drilled a hole and missed what they were aiming for. The extra piece under that knee bracket to seal the hole, are you thinking welding or riveting it into place?

Why not rivet? What's another rivet after doing 1,000+? :rofl:

 

[EchoNovember]

All of this is making me nervous about when we do our restoration...

Is that pitting from saltwater? We've been rinsing out our bilge with house water as a preventative for invasive species, as we had splashwell separation. Starting to wonder if we should continue that to wash out anything corrosive.

 

[82rude]

Wish i would of seen your post about the fasco epoxy sooner SHSU.I might of not bought the gluvit atall and just did what your thinking of doing ,coating the inside and outside.Gluvit is a well regarded and proven product so i dont feel too bad but its 4 time more expensive also! Too sick to work today (face and tooth infection)

 

[SHSU]

Yeah for some reason the classiccat didn't make it through. I would personally bed the patch in 5200 and solid rivet it in place. No way I would weld that close to the transom seam, you would burn out the sealer in the seam. It's acknowledged in most boat restoration circles that welding on a riveted boat is the last resort.

There are some other pits that are pretty large and in the pic that extra hole doesn't look drilled, it's not round.

Thanks WM, after looking at it again I can see it as not being drilled. I do have some pretty bad pitting. I like your idea. Do you just do the hole or like a 12 x 12 sheet?

Why not rivet? What's another rivet after doing 1,000+? :rofl:

LOL, its the 2001 that will kill me!!!

Really, I just want to make sure that I have made a good repair so it wont fail.

All of this is making me nervous about when we do our restoration...

Is that pitting from saltwater? We've been rinsing out our bilge with house water as a preventative for invasive species, as we had splashwell separation. Starting to wonder if we should continue that to wash out anything corrosive.

Yes, this boat only saw water in the Gulf of Mexico. I don't think the original owner took very good care of it..... From what I have seen of your boat, you wont have nearly as many issues as I have.

Wish i would of seen your post about the fasco epoxy sooner SHSU.I might of not bought the gluvit atall and just did what your thinking of doing ,coating the inside and outside.Gluvit is a well regarded and proven product so i dont feel too bad but its 4 time more expensive also! Too sick to work today (face and tooth infection)

Ya, I got the idea from a thread Woodonglass suggested it in and Watermann pointed me to another thread where somebody else used it. I know Gulvit is the go to for many people; however, if i can get the same result with Fasco, then why not try it. Plus it is used on the bottom of air boats so you know it gets abused.

I hear you on life getting in the way and being sick, I "sprained (my) spine" at work. Before you ask, it was a very manly stretch I was doing in my chair and felt something pop... Doc told me to take it easy and gave me some nice meds!!! Got some movement of my head back so am definitely on the road to recovery.

With life getting in the way, I haven't been able to build the cradle for the boat to sit on so we could finish the bottom. Instead, I have been doing some shopping and picked up more goodies from Gander Mountain. After all the concerns I had about the bracket and its cost, it rang up at $45. So I got everything I wanted today for under $100!!!

 

[82rude]

Back problems can be brutal ,crippling.i may just get a quart or 2 of the fasco and coat the underside anyways as the quart of gluvit probaly wont last forever doing the inside rivets..Actually it was the ludicrous local pricing of the gluvit which made me only buy 1 quart. 98 cnd.

 

[Watermann]

I don't know what the exact dimensions would be for the patch plate but it should be large enough to cover the pitted area with some overlap into good material. I picture the repair patch to be more of a rectangle. I think I would do some filler work on the hole and pitting too with some marine tex or JBW just so there isn't the off chance corrosion will start again in those pits. After it's nice and smooth it's up to you then but I would think about priming and painting it as well to add a layer of protection.

 

[SHSU]

Back problems can be brutal ,crippling.i may just get a quart or 2 of the fasco and coat the underside anyways as the quart of gluvit probaly wont last forever doing the inside rivets..Actually it was the ludicrous local pricing of the gluvit which made me only buy 1 quart. 98 cnd.

Ya, its a pain in the neck (Pun intended) :lol:

So doing my DD on fasco, it will not last forever, but the airboat guys are also running over some pretty rough stuff too. I am thinking, apply it like fasco suggests and I should be fine for years