1984 16 foot Lund... Utility restoration

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Just bought a new boat. It's a 1984 16' aluminum Lund with a 1977 35 HP Johnson.
I believe it's a pro angler from that era, but the title isn't specific. It took me 3 days to get the motor running because the neutral start switch was faulty. Now I have the issue rectified and it runs and idles smoothly. It still needs a carb tune up or cleaning, but I was forced to rewire the entire motor because the wires were so corroded and frayed. I'll post pictures later this morning. my first issue to tackle will be the spongy floorboards. I don't see any other Pro Anglers in the forums. Can anyone suggest he best way to get the floor out without destroying it?.....I'd like to use it as a template.
I'm fairly certain the bottom rivets and seems are good. After all of our snow melted there was two feet of water in the bottom for roughly a week.

 

[Woodonglass]

Saving the old deck to use as a template is not that critical. It's fairly easy to make a template using cardboard strips and masking tape.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Can anyone tell me if this is a Pro Angler.....I chose this model from descriptions of images on the internet. As I posted earlier, the title isn't model specific.....
It only says....16' aluminum hull boat where the model description should be.

 

[64osby]

Might be able to find some info on your boat here http://www.lundboats.com/catalog-archive/

 

[Teamster]

I think that is what was called a "Mr. Pike",.........

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Yes that's what I think as well... Either a mr. Pike a Pro Pike.
My concern is over engine ratings. Right now there's a 35 HP motor hanging on the back end.

 

[bonz_d]

That would be an S16 DLX. Had it's little brother the S14 DLX only with the factory side steering console. You can see it here, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...d-hull-repair/341212-lund-s14-dlx-in-progress

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

The casting and bow deck have been added but you can see from the link 64 posted that Bonz is right on the money.

1984 Lund catalog

 

[fhhuber]

Hull is aluminum = all the wood is bolted/screwed in. Grind off bolt heads if they won't just unscrew.

You may have to get aggressive with a knife cutting up carpet to find the bolts/screws...

Should be really easy to get the pieces out in good enough shape for use as patterns if they aren't crumbling.

Looks like a basically sound aluminum hull... replacing all the wood (NO PRESSURE TREATED GREEN OR BROWN!) after applying Woodonglass's preservative mix to the new wood....should have the hull fixed for many years.

Hopefully the engine will last that long...

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Thanks so much bonz_d...
That's very very helpful...
Question... How are you guys posting the links to your builds in your signatures? Are they HTML tags?
Thanks in advance....

I'll be starting a teardown this week if the weather permits. We have 12 inches of snow on the ground right now in Wisconsin. I'm so ticked off. It was 65 degrees last week

 

[bonz_d]

When I replaced the plywood in that Lund I did it in 3 pieces so as not to have to remove those seat boxes. The pcs. in the front of the split seat was cut as one pcs. and slid under from the front. The rear section was done in two pcs. and each pcs was slide under from the middle. All three pcs butted up flush to each other and had another 3" strip of ply screwed to the bottom to fasten them together.

I used 5/8" BCX from Menards and it was very sturdy. There are pictures of the hull with the plywood out in the link I posted.

 

[bonz_d]

Where are you located? I'm down by Lake Geneva.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

I'm from Racine but I live in Wild Rose now.

 

[bonz_d]

I know them both well. You will enjoy that Lund, I did mine and now my little brother is lovin it! It also performed very well with the 35hp Evinrude on it.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

I just looked at the floors and it seems the center section of bad flooring was riveted along the stringers....lengthwise along the edges and down the center....It looks as if the front section of floor has been replaced, but is still failing and is spongy.
I've read through your post Bonz_d....any of this sound familiar....???
It may be warmer tomorrow.... I'll be more motivated to start ripping stuff out then. I'm very anxious, but not with all this bad weather hammering us today.
I'm going to post pictures...I know that you guys appreciate pictures for some reason.

 

[bonz_d]

The ribs in your 16 should be exactly the same as pictured on my 14. Determine the thickness of the ply used and then what I did was set the circle saw to just shy of cutting thru. Then I cut the ply up the keel and broke it out..

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

I've already started taking the boxes off of mine. so it should be as simple as measuring and cutting. I'll subtract for the thickness of carpet to get it nice and snug. I've already priced the plywood,but I thinkI need to look into some waterproofing methods. I need to try to do this on the cheap. if I can make it a removable floor slash relatively easy to remove flooring. I'll be able to come back in the fallfor a nice new paint job.

 

[fishin98]

I just completed a redo of a 1988 Alumacraft Lunker V14....it's down on page 8, Our boats are similar, the floor was riveted to the ribs, I had to drill everyone of them out. Save your floor sections as you can use them for the pattern. I used 19/32 BCX plywood from Lowes, I also used the Marine carpeting from Lowes 6' x 20' for $156. Now is the time to re wire and do any up grades. Go down and check out my thread. BTW.. I grew up in Racine county, now retired to FL, still get up that way to fish for walleyes. Hey Bonz_d wondering where you were.
FISHIN

 

[Frey0357]

FGuy....the name cracks me up!

As for sealing methods, WoodOnGlass has a cocktail of sorts that is excellent for sealing wood and is very inexpensive compared to Epoxy. Don't get me wrong epoxy is THE best, but this is a close second (IMHO). This is what I used on my boat transom, and it turned out excellent! You will mix all of these together and then simply apply it, and let it set (dry). 3 coats of this followed by 2 heavy coats of straight Spar (little green can) and it is all sealed...All of this for under $20.00!!!

Thanks,
Frey

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

yeah I just went out and checked on the Fasteners connecting everything to the ribs and storage boxes. Some of the hardware Canby ground off with an angle grinder but some of them are in difficult places so it may take me a while to get the flooring out. It's half inch plywood at the moment. so I'll go get some today but it's too cold out right now to do any serious work on it. yeah I saw that waterproofing concoction. I think I'll give it a shot.