1983 Galaxy Double Cabin 260

Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Shanstan, that part of the engine transom plate that broke did you ever find out if you can use that same style if so if you haven't found a replacement part I may have 2 or 3 I am never going to use that might be the same I can send you one, no charge and happy to help. Send me a PM if I can assist with that.
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Wow its been a while since I have worked on the boat. I have started removing the stringers and runners and the wood was still soggy, even though it has been out of the water for over 2 years! Post some pictures soon.
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Thanks Micky! My holidays were great and I hope your holidays were too.

As promised: progress!


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Removed port side stringer to just forward of gas tank cavity. The wood was paper.




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Aft bulkhead was removed and saved for later Wood disintegrated into paper.


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Engine support. Cconsistency of mud and fiber. It was real easy to tell my this happened. The fiberglass did not extend all the way to transom. Note the curved piece on the outer wall. Thats where it stopped. It was covered by a shelf for the hydraulics.


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Tearing out transom now


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The whole transom hadl live termites in it.
 

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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,715
Nice work Shane.Keep at it. Mine had live worms after sitting for months.
KC
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
The work continues:

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Transom outline on foam board. $9 at Lowes.

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Pattern has been cut!

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Test fitting. The two inner nibs on the bottom will be cut off.

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Pattern transferred to 3/4 inch marine plywood.

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Moved to a shady area. I am following Friscoboater Jay's example on his Bayliner. I cut 3/4 inch holes to allow 5/8 allthread to pass through for clamping action.


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Here is the smaller piece of 3/4 inch Marine plywood.

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The polyurethane construction adhesive. Says it takes 24 hours to cure, but it gets down to mid 's overnight so I going to give 36 hours.

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Clamped together! I used the trawl just like jay used to lay it out and created the grooves.. Im glad I bought two tubes. I barely had enough to cover the area!

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So you can see the clamping action going on. Those two steel I-beams were added for more pressing.

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Glue squeezed out so its working. Leaving it alone for a while.
 

CrazyFinn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
357
Just saw this thread - probably because the last time you posted here was before I even started on my project. Gonna follow along - encouraging to see you getting back into it after a delay (and here I was getting frustrated because I haven't accomplished much in a couple of weeks).

This is interesting to me as when I get my current project done, I could see myself tackling a boat about the same size as what you have. Looking good so far!
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Crazy Finn, Thank you for the encouragement!

Kcassels Its going to be a while before I glass it in. While test fitting the transom, I have discovered that as the aft end trends upward, it bends inwards. With it cinched up in the middle. there is about 1/4 inch gap. I checked the total thickness of the transom at the keyhole and it is at 2 1/8 inches. So I'm at maximum thickness according to Mercruiser. So going to have to sand the backside to make it blend in.

Anybody have thoughts on this?
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Some here are some recent pictures:

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So here is the transom still being test fitted. Got the drain plug arch cut and the keyhole cut The hole is smaller so that when I glue it in, i can trim it to match the hull. I also started rounding off the edges.

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Here you can see that the aft end is not quite flat. I used a drywall level and verified that at the top it caves inward about 1/2 inch. At 2 inch interval s downward the inward curve lessens. I think my best bet is to remove wood from the inside to match the curve.

OH WHAT FUN!
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
So i have been talked out of sanding the backside of the wood and just use the clamping force to bend to shape. Got all sorts of goodies in the mail and will be taking my first shot at sealing the wood with resin and sealing the transom in this weekend. Going to take pictures of progress and post!
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
No Title

Transom wood has been sealed and installed in the boat!
 

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Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Im not dead. Not yet at least! I have been trying to figure out a work around to get my top to fit to the hull. The edges are too far gone to rebuild using the original method. I am going to build small ribs to create internal fastening points, much like frames on ship except they would only be about 2 to 3 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. It will be made of 3/4" PVC board glued together and then cemented in place to the hull with polyresin and clamps. Spacing about 8", maybe less. The top should slide on and use stainless screws to secure.
 

Monterey Dreams

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
409
Shanestan,

I just found your thread, I've been hit and miss around here too the last few years. Going to follow along and subscribe too.
Very great work, thanks for sharing your project.
dave
 

Shanestan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
45
Still not dead! Just have not been active because of the unusual wet weather in Mobile and have a lot of other brands in the fire. I have managed to test my fuel tank for leaks, and have started mocking up the interior using 1/2" foam board for templates. Maybe I should post pictures once I get them off my phone.
 
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