1982 MR 180

roscoe

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Oct 30, 2002
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Hook 7 or Helix 7
I've got one of each, and a new in the box Helix5 gen 2, that I picked up at a rummage for $100.
Or if you want larger and easier to read, go for the 9" models.
Go for the model that gives you sonar and gps map.
Both are pretty easy to use.
Either will work great for you.

No real need for side image, down image, chirp 7.2, etc, for the type of fishing you do.

If you can find a discontinued G2 or G3 model, ( generation 2 or 3 ) it will save you some $$$$. Expect to spend $450 to $750 +++.

Of course there are lots of other options. Garmin owners love them.
Determine budget first.
Then check out a few in person for easy of use.
 
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redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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great news! Wife finally found my fish finder.

Sad to see that this $800 or so model form a few years back is now going for $250 or so. Oh well.

I need to get a mount, realized I sent that with the old boat. Had a new transducer already.


Garmin 531S is model if anyone has input. I never really learned how to use it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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FWIW, my 2 year old VHF died and they dont make it anymore, hope the replacement fits the custom mount. My 2 year old Garmin 7" needs an update...... LOL
 

redneck joe

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Good weather next few day other than few storms tonight so pulled the boat out of the barn so it can get a good rinse and lining up all the (basic) new to me boat things to do. The 16 year old heathen will be here next 12 days and besides dragging him with me on a few small jobs we are boat centric.

Pretty stoked. Hope it starts.
 

redneck joe

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Well having prob with uploading pics from my tablet and the grandheathen sleeps in my office where laptop lives so the only update I'll post this morning is it started like a dream. Purred like a kitten. Ran like a champ. Hummed like a happy bee. Grunted like a pig in in s....


When i bought it last fall had my BIL did the eyes one it and when they started it (with me on the phone) wasnt to happy to start so was a bit worried and when i dragged it home i just stuck it in the barn. This is first time i've had out because i promised i wouldnt play with it until i had a couple projects around the house done. She knows me oh too well....
 

redneck joe

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Ok, only had one in the past and could not remember. This one does not but ran fine all day.
 

redneck joe

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Ok decided to get a new fuel tank so will add a ball to the line. The space under the seat currently holds a six gal but a low pro 12 should fit perfectly.


about 30 miles of running produced about 3 -4 gal of water leaks so spent some time underneath and found four rivets that have been 'repaired'. Looks like a layer of bondo or something that gave way so they a smear of white silicone. So that will be a day of fixing. Going to do something basic as it will be a few years before i need / want to do that.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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couldn't figure out why imgur not taking my pics so learned how to use albums in facebook. So be prepared to be bored


Here are issues underneath. Six total, interestingly all in the same line from stern to bow. Port side first row of rivet next to the keel. To me, not having any experience with JB Weld, i think that is what was used

four are sealed it looks like, one has the head area popped off, and one has only the silicone on it (poorly applied). My first line of attack will be to repair the two obvious leakers then take for a run. I think I will just use a pan head screw of the appropriate size and some 5200. That should get me by for a few years - unless anyone has a more permanent solution without tearing out the floor.

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BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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...My first line of attack will be to repair the two obvious leakers then take for a run. I think I will just use a pan head screw of the appropriate size and some 5200. That should get me by for a few years - unless anyone has a more permanent solution without tearing out the floor.
Maybe use a closed end blind rivet slathered in 5200 in lieu of a screw? It won't back out.
 

Sharpie223

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May 24, 2021
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163
Make sure they're aluminum and closed end.
Please make sure they are STAINLESS.

Not trying to be argumentative, just that when I researched these, I had zero confidence in aluminum blind rivets for anything structural, they are very weak, comparatively. The stainless were about the strength of solid hard aluminum rivets. The stainless, especially coated, shouldn't give you any real corrosion issues, especially if used in freshwater.

Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about a well sealed screw if properly torqued and sealed.
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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Please make sure they are STAINLESS.

Not trying to be argumentative, just that when I researched these, I had zero confidence in aluminum blind rivets for anything structural, they are very weak, comparatively. The stainless were about the strength of solid hard aluminum rivets. The stainless, especially coated, shouldn't give you any real corrosion issues, especially if used in freshwater.

Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about a well sealed screw if properly torqued and sealed.
Good point. (y)
 
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