1981 Starcraft Super Sport 180 - Gonna try a Restore

Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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637
Thanks Hayko, I may still go with solid rivets thanks to you. Waterman, I removed the z bracket and glad I did. There were cracks under there. I cleaned it all up, drilled the end of the cracks and ground a channel the length of the cracks and filled with JB Weld. I also found cracks on the bottom screw flange of the knee brace so I drilled those and put on JB Weld. I may end up attaching angle brackets there to strengthen it. I'll post up pics when the boy gets off the computer later.
Thanks for linking your splash well repair Dozer. I made a bit of a mess taking mine off so I think I will just replace the whole thing. I like the splash well on your v5, I think I may do something similar to that and incorporate a deck. Do you mind posting the dimensions?
 
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g0nef1sshn

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Can, Just do several practice rounds on something with those solid rivets and you will see they wont be so bad!
 

hayko1971

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May 24, 2013
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Looks good there Rob. When I repaired my knee brace, I buttered up the angle with jb weld, then riveted together and ran stainless bolts through the whole thing for extra shear support.
I would butter up the z bracket the same way when I put it back on if I took mine off, that would just add a little extra to the crack repairs I'm thinking. Nice work
 

Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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637
Thanks Rob...got the boat off the trailer yesterday. Glad I did before towing it anywhere else. The u-bolt on the right axle was missing a nut and was really loose and the bracket that holds the back of the leaf spring in is busted off. One good bump and she would have been a disaster.


I guess that will be first priority next spring.

I also flipped her myself with a chain block and began stripping. The stripper I have isn't very good, didn't get the primer. I will have to get another brand when this one is done.

View attachment y4mSwXzrbUoEccHrF_yl1z7AVwEvMnSTOZezpRQ1CQXKAAMUJxHkeVgcay41fZBEwKL_u5CmHTgLSn2ziDi7nZVb4PtPY7wUC2xaView attachment y4mCt8i6fG1VPr25hd8iIfkr-_eXef7fm9VuhURDNfTZC5TZh_OinonCRuauzPC_-KW-yF9ESEuZMSNOjUZGmi72XnVp_qmrtHF1


That's it for this weekend, hopefully get some time this week to get some more stripping done.
 
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g0nef1sshn

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Most strippers wont cut it all down to bare aluminum in one shot. Weather also makes a difference. Covering it with a plastic sheet once applied can help it soak in more before evaporating also.
 

hayko1971

Starmada Splash of the Year 2015
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May 24, 2013
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448
I had the best luck with safe strip from home hardware, I had to really goop it on and let it sit for a few hours though.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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I had the best luck with safe strip from home hardware, I had to really goop it on and let it sit for a few hours though.
InMotion mixed a little flour, yep, regular ole white flour, into SafeStrip to make a paste and brushed it on.... not sure how long, but I think it was HOURS, and it scrapped down to bare hull...
 

Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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Thanks fellas...I spent 2 hours tonight and I didn't get much further. Three coats on the front and there is still primer there. I didn't have any plastic so I tried a tarp but it didn't wor very well. Gonna get some safe strip, plastic and some flour and give that a shot.
 

jbcurt00

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Try cheaper, dollar store brand plastic instead of saran...

DON'T use the saran from the house! Buy a roll for the paint stripping and leave it IN the box until you get the goop slopped on the hull. Then pull out a little and get it IN the goop, and unroll it out of the box as you lay it into the goop. If ya get the goop on the box, so what ;)

Don't try to pull off 3ft of plastic, cut it off the roll, and then lay it into the goop............
 

hayko1971

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the flour didn't seem to do anything to me, it worked best straight out of the bottle. If it got too dry, just add a little more.
The plastic helped a lot, I just layer the goop on thick and smoothed the poly into it. Scrape as much as you can off, then scrub the rest with dollar store brushes and scour pads
 

Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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637
Well there's where I went wrong. I pulled off a length around 5 feet, what a #*$@ show. Got some of the really thin painter plastic today. I will try that with the rest of this can and see how it goes. Thanks for the tips jb and Rob.
 

Watermann

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The PO welded over the hole so I will have to drill that out.

20150620_145436.jpg

Wait a minute WTH? This pic got kinda lost in the paint scrape posting. So what are we seeing here the guy welded shut the drain holes on the keel strip? Are all the rivet heads holding it on, might be an optical illusion but those look like holes not rivet heads.
 
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Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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Optical illusion. Rivets are there and tight. That was the only one welded shut, the front one had jb weld on it but it was worn off and open.
 

Watermann

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Ok, then I would maybe think about drilling the hole back through nearby rather through that weld. A couple of reasons, there could be a weld bead built up on the inside that would be like a dam not to mention it's sure to have more thickness or it could bust loose a big hole. It looks like that spot has been worn down some and if your so inclined maybe rebuilding the keel in that area with JB or MT and sand it smooth for painting.
 

crankbait cowboy

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Mar 25, 2013
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attached is what worked well for me when it came time to strip candutch. smear it on and let it lay for a beer or so then power wash off. good luck
 

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InMotion

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CD --- The floor mixture worked great for me --- but you got to add it and stir it until the mixture is quite thick --- think thick pancake mix. I let the safe strip and white flour marinate on the boat for an hour or two.... some warm weather really speeds things up.

Cool project man! Looks like a nice boat!

Take care,

Jim
 
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