1980 Terry bass boat restoration...it begins!

[tallcanadian]

If you go to the new Stright Mackay catalogue, go to page 89. Part no. 51-287B. If you go this route don't forget stainless steel screws.

 

[BackyardKrazy]

hey guys, i finally got time to work at the boat tonight. I started grinding and removing ll the old fiberglass that held in the stringers:

I have almost half done. I suited up pretty good, to prevent as much itch as possible!

i seriously cant wait till this part is done.. I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.....I love my boat.................

 

[BackyardKrazy]

Thanks TC, I am going to call them tomorrow to order some matt and such, as well as price that "PB" they sell. Ill price the rub rail when i call.

 

[gm280]

Oh yea the man from outer space look. I think we've all looked like that doing our grinding parts. It is the pits, but it has to be done. But equally amazing is how fast you will forget all about this portion of the rebuild. And I am glad you used the PPE outfit as well. Good job. :thumb:

 

[tallcanadian]

You almost look like a NASCAR pit crew member. Boat is looking good. It will be worth it.

 

[BackyardKrazy]

Well, it pouring raining out and a refuse to grind out that boat inside my garage! So it'll have to wait till this weekend. I had a couple questions though i'm sure you guys can answer easily.

Can you take this cable out of the steering box by pulling the pin out? and how difficult is it to put back together? It just might make removing the steering cable from the top half of the boat a bit easier.

And wht purpose does this vent have? Id rather delete it.....

 

[tallcanadian]

If memory serves me correct, pull the pin and turn the steering wheel and the cable will come out. Then do the opposite to re install it. That bottom tube can stay, I believe. As far as that vent goes, I'm not sure what they had if for. You can get rid of that.

 

[BackyardKrazy]

What type of fiberglass is this? is it 1708 or similar? this picture is it folded back off the roll:

 

[gm280]

Well it doesn't look like the 1708 I've bought. But it does have two different materials and if they are compatible with polyester resin, then I don't see why you couldn't use it. It almost looks like a really course woven material and then a thin CSM. JMHO!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Not 1708 for sure. !708 is stitched at 45 degrees. This looks like is is stitiched @ 90 degrees. The strands are much thicker than 1708 also. I think that is a much heavier fabric that is stitched instead of woven

 

[Woodonglass]

Where did this glass come from??

 

[sphelps]

1808 is stitched at 90 deg ...And just a little thicker

 

[BackyardKrazy]

Where did this glass come from??

I just happened to me showing a friend of mine some pics of the boat and what i got myself into and he mentioned a guy he knew bought some mat and didnt want it anymore. Its 4ftX100ft, I can barely lift the roll.... got it for $100 cash! I think it was worth it, its plenty thick! I might cut it into strips and fasten the stringers down with it. I just ordered some Cabosil, 2lb pourable foam, 5 gal resin, and some 4" wide 6oz mat. Should be here Wed or Thursday.

I finished grinding out the stringer mess in the boat, and cut out all my new stringers and transom. The transom is made of two 3/4" plywood sandwiched together, what should I glue them together with? Resin? As well as to the back of the boat fiberglass? PB?

 

[tallcanadian]

Now your getting serious. I used PL Premium to bond the two pieces together, then screwed the two together long enough to dry. It may take 3 or 4 tubes, then get a trowel to spread it even, apply screws and wait. I used Peanut Butter to adhere the plywood to the transom skin. Don't be afraid to use a lot. It will squeeze out around the edges, then you can filet them. Do you have transom clamps? Or any kind of clamps to use until the transom dries to the transom skin. I would lend you mine if I could get down your way.When are you doing the transom?

 

[gm280]

BYK sounds like you have everything needed to start your project now. You have to continue posting pictures. :thumb:

 

[BackyardKrazy]

I got a few supplies this week, and I am really hoping after doing all my running around today to tackle the transom. I bought the 5 gal of resin, and three small containers of Cabosil, not really knowing what i was getting. Ill need more of that for sure.

Sorry TC, I appreciate the offer for the transom clamps, I haven't been on here this week with work so busy. I geared up a system last night, that should do the trick, Ill post pics when i get it geared up.

I mixed up my first batch of PB, just to refasten a block on the front of the bolt to reinforce the "tow hoop??" I'm not sure what is called. It was a little runny, but it was fine for that, and now im more comfortable mixing it up.

I think I read somewhere on iboats, to fill a plastic bag with it and cut the corner off so you can squeeze it between seams easier, sorta like a cake icing tool. Anyone try this or have any tips?

ill take some pics and post tonight, when i finally sit down and sip on a whiskey or two...

 

[gm280]

Yes BYK, I did use plastic zip lock type bags and cut just a little off one corner. Then you can pipe out the PB with more control. I also cleaned out a used plastic caulking tube and used a caulking gun with the PB in the tube. That works really well EXCEPT, it hold too little and if you don't clean it out, that tube is history. So I use the zip lock bags and cut the corner. You can also use a metal spoon (teaspoon worked the best for me) and smooth out the fillets pretty nicely too if that helps. I hear dipping the spoon in Acetone occasionally helps smooth out the fillets too. Anything you can do before the PB cures to smooth things out, will great save you later on when sanding the fillets.

When you mix up your PB, you can add more Cabisol to make the thickness to any viscosity you like. More Cabisol, the thicker, and of course less a lot thinner and runnier. So you can control what you want for each application. And if you have a lot of fillets to do, use a little less MEKP in the mix. That way you can use it for a longer period before it starts to harden up and cure.

You will educate yourself as you go along. The learning curve is really short. Post some more pictures of your project for us to see. :thumb:

 

[BackyardKrazy]

Well I got the tyransom clamped in last night, I attached it to the fiberglass hell with lots of PB. It oozed out around the edges, and I leveled it out with my finger. I may have been a bit stingy with the hardener, i was afraid it'd set up before i had it clamped, so I stuck a heater by it for the night. it should be hard this morning.

Here's some pics of my clamp system, i figured it might as well utilize the drain hole to clamp it tight. It seemed to work very well.

Today Im going to set in my stringers, and gently set the top back on the boat. I need to shim the up i'm sure in places, so i get even distance between them and the lip of the top section of boat to allow for the top layer of flooring.

If all goes well, I may get some PB put in to fasten them down!

I went through my supplies i bought, and apparently there was some miscomunication in regards to the foam i had purchased. I said i wanted a 2gal kit, but they sold me two 2l kits... and that was $150.00..... That technically only 2 square ft in perfect conditions. looks like ill be using some construction foam in places. I can't swing that $!

Does the pour in foam attack the construction foam? Another persons post I read a while back mentioned construction foam was vulnerable to gas etc... so they wrapped in plastic.

 

[BackyardKrazy]

Ok, While having my coffee I had a brain fart.

One thing my boat lacks, is storage space. Its a smaller size, and the hull is quite shallow up front in the bow. I starting thinking about any layout changes I could make during this, and i realized the whole center area between the stringers was all open with no foam.

Here's a pic i (quickly) drew up of my stringer layout to illustrate my idea.

Blue is foam, green is the Bilge pump and livewell pump area, and Red is all open area, I dont know why the manufacturer would want any water flowing up through that far. The darker red, i thought i may be able to have a storage area for rods or oars possibly?

Any thoughts?

 

[sphelps]

No reason why you can't build it back like you want .. May have to install another bulkhead or 2 maybe ..