1980 Starcraft SS160 Restoration

[Watermann]

My Merc does the same with the voltage, runs just a bit over 16v when opened up and yeah the rectifier is the "voltage regulator" on these old motors so it's normal to see that. I'm imagining you'll see the same v with the new one. When the rectifier is bad you'll only see 12v. Knowing that the only thing that runs off of my battery for the motor is the motor and the trim which has a breaker that has never tripped, no sensitive electronics like an expensive fish finder or they'll suffer for it.

 

[baldwibr]

Yeah, after doing a little more research on it, sounds like it's pretty normal when there's no voltage regulator and using lead acid deep cycle batteries. There is a part behind the selenium rectifier called a "trip regulator" but no documentation on what it does. My guess is that it's possibly a voltage regulator with a trip transistor on it. If I had to hypothesize (if functioning correctly), I'd say that it regulates the voltage to around 14v during charging and the trip transitor basically allows the electricity to flow once it reaches a certain voltage (that's how there's an alternator cut-in speed at 1,000 RPMs) but I bet the regulator is going bad.

I think my issue is that I didn't wire the ignition switch properly for my two battery setup. I currently have a hot wire running in the wiring harness from the motor to the ignition switch (B) that I have hooked up to the instrument panel so the power coming through this is the starting battery and feeding the ignition circuit. I think I need to disconnect this and the run a wire from my fuse block (that's connected to my house battery) to power the switch (B) so that the engine is completely isolated to the starting battery and everything else is solely on the house battery.

 

[Watermann]

That is something I've not seen on my motors, so being in uncharted waters I'd have to refer you to the dorm fridge motor section of the forum, they'll know.

 

[baldwibr]

Thanks. So I posted my question in the engine forum. While I was in there, I read another post about someone else who thought their reed valves were going bad and their symptoms sounded like mine- dead cylinder with wet plugs but plenty of spark and good compression. Someone noted that the fuel pump was connected to the dead cylinder and said it's possible the diaphragm my be damaged and fuel is getting sucked directly into the cylinder so I thought I would check mine.

Seems to be the case for mine! So I picked up a new diaphragm today and will install it and hopefully run it this weekend and see if my power comes back. I also changed the battery source on the ignition (B) with the house battery so we'll see if that also helps.

 

[baldwibr]

We’re back in business!! The diaphragm was the issue. I replaced it and got out on the water today and it was back to the speed and power it was before.

 

[nrf414]

We’re back in business!! The diaphragm was the issue. I replaced it and got out on the water today and it was back to the speed and power it was before.

:car: alright man that's awesome. Good work!

 

[pntbtrjllytme]

Thanks for the post I will be checking mine today as well now! Also, glad to hear it! Always feels great to diagnose a prob and get it figured out to be able to get back out on the water!

 

[Decker83]

What a tiny little hole to cause such a big problem. Great catch on finding the cause.

 

[baldwibr]

Well, had the boat out about every day for the past week and it's running like a champ. The kids keep asking to go out fishing too!!

I added a fish finder I had laying around to the front trolling motor so I can finally see what I'm doing up there. Definitely a good decision.

 

[frazoo]

Sounds like you all are having a blast!
My hat is off to all you guys that work on your own OB's. THAT is a mystery to me (but I did buy a manual for mine to give it a try if needed).

 

[Watermann]

The thing with older motors is that everything wrong with them has been figured out years ago and the symptoms if described correctly will get you very close to a fix the first time. The self pride that comes with digging in and repairing a motor be it OB or IO and not paying someone $100+ an hour in invaluable as is the knowledge gained.

 

[baldwibr]

The good thing about old motors is they are relatively simple machines. As Watermann mentioned, they’re typically well documented and easy to work on. A repair manual and a parts catalog (some are in the same book) have proven to be extremely valuable. The iBoats forums are another great resource for advice and information.

 

[baldwibr]

Been really enjoying the boat lately. A trip out with my boys had my boat leaning on one side and left us bouncing a little bit in some choppy water, so I was looking up hydrofoils to help stabilize the boat a bit. In my internet search, I came across Nauticus Smart Tabs. The reviews on these things all went like this: "I was skeptical about these things, but I put them on and they are amazing!!" So I thought, let's try this route. Bought them dirt cheap on iBoats.com.

So I installed them last Friday but have to wait until Wednesday for the 3M 5200 Marine Sealant to fully cure. Don't get me wrong, I am still very skeptical, but I'll give a report once I try them out.

 

[Watermann]

A number of us have smart tabs on our boats, I have them on my stern heavy Chief. Are those the 40# tabs?

The big one in boat performance and handling is having power trim and knowing how to us it.

 

[baldwibr]

Yes, it's the 40# model. I think I have a lot of stern weight with my 15 gallon gas tank, 2 batteries, and the motor so hopefully these smart tabs will really help out.

I do have power trim and understand how to use it. The unfortunate thing is I don't have a trim gauge and I haven't seen a sender that would work with my Chrysler outboard...

 

[Watermann]

Yeah you don't need a trim gauge for an OB motor, it's all about getting it at the right trim level when on a plane and of course you can look back to see an OB where you can't with an IO. I have both and only my IO has the trim sender and gauge.

 

[baldwibr]

So I finally got the boat out yesterday and tried out the new Nauticus Smart Tabs. I was skeptical but these things really work well!! Hardly any bow rise out of the hole, rides level, rides smooth, cuts through chop- all around an excellent addition to the boat.

On the downside, I was not able to double tow. It felt pretty heavy when I got out on the road, so I swung by a local weigh station and I was over my Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating so I had to turn back and drop the boat off at home for a our camping trip. The boat and trailer weight 1,720 lbs!! I didn't think it weighed that much.

So, I will be putting a hitch receiver on our Sienna and we'll have to take two separate vehicles when we go camping.

 

[Decker83]

Good to hear another positive view on the smart tabs.. I've been looking at the same ones..
Taking 2 vehicles is a bummer, but it's better safe than sorry..

 

[baldwibr]

Actually, I think the wife doesn’t mind. That way she can send me ahead to fill the tanks and set up the site so everything’s ready when she gets there with the boys.

 

[baldwibr]

So, I was on my way back from my parents about halfway home when the front strap of the boat cover snapped off and the cover started flopping in the wind. I saw a "Rest Area 1 Mile" sign so I decided I would just pull off there and take the cover off.

Pulled into the rest area, took the boys to the bathroom and then back to the truck. Started removing the cover from the boat and stowed it away. Starting to remove the straps from the trailer frame when I noticed my bearing buddy was missing from the starboard side. So I leaned down to discover what you see in the picture below. My heart sank and it took a few minutes before I realized the full weight and potential catastrophe that could have happened.

The Lord really protected me and my boys because if it wasn't for the cover coming loose, I would have never stopped, or even if I did, I would not have seen the wheel. I don't know how that wheel even stayed on!! Seriously, it was just a spindle in a hub. I'm convinced it was divine intervention- the probability of the series of events is just too small...

Anyways, time to fix it and get home. Got out my jack and jacked the trailer up. The wheel fell off. There was no bearings left!!! Just some melted metal, metal shards, and splattered grease. No castle nut, no bearings- nothing. I didn't feel anything different in the pull of the trailer, nor did I hear anything of concern (windows were down). My guess is that the rear seal failed and leaked grease all over the place. Then the bearing overheated until eventually they failed.

Crap! How can I fix this? Called my in-laws and they came and rescued the boys, and my father-in-law bought a new bearing kit and stuff to get us back on the road. It took chiseling burrs, and lots of emery cloth to get the spindle back in a usable condition. But after 4 hours, we had the new bearings, races, castle nut, and cap installed, greased and ready for a slow drive home.

From now on, I will sure to check my bearing every year (even though I have bearing buddies) and always carry and extra set of bearings and some race drivers. That is not an experience I'd like to go through again...