1979 Starcraft 16’ SS Refresh

[Moserkr]

@classiccat Thanks! The practice ones turned out great. The boat ones, most were good lol. But the bow area is awkward to work on in my defense as a FNG. I forgot to turn down the pressure after doing my first few! Thanks for the reminder. Here are a few more pics of the front! Going to work into the night after dinner and try to get the front done.

Making a cross rib roast (rare or its wrong) with sautéed garlic mushrooms, blanched asparagus, and Admiral is adding a fettuccine herb and parmesan cheese pasta. Bottle of red wine to boot! We also like to cook n eat right

 

[SHSU]

Making a cross rib roast (rare or its wrong) with sautéed garlic mushrooms, blanched asparagus, and Admiral is adding a fettuccine herb and parmesan cheese pasta. Bottle of red wine to boot! We also like to cook n eat right

What!?!?!?!?!?! No Pictures!?!?!?!?!?! lol

I must be deaf cause the riveting in a closed garage didnt bug me at all hahaha. The top rivet tail got a little squished but i was playing around. Honestly, once i figured out how to get my rivet gun to work, it wasnt that hard.

Man those look great!!! What length did you go for in the end?

You think the pick up side matters a lot? I can have it facing either direction (at least i think so right now).

It depends on how it sits up front and if you let it get that low. As you get on plane the front end is going to be higher then the back, so your fuel will move to the rear. I have read some people having issues with pickup when on plane because of this. I made sure my pickup was at the very back. I can pretty much drain the entire tank through my pickup, which helps make sure I get every drop. If I have one thing I could redo it would be tank size. 9 gallons just isn't enough... I carry 2 2 gallon jerry cans as backup just in case.

SHSU

 

[benfish909]

Very nice! Now the fun begins. It’s great when you realize that the fear of doing solid rivets is unwarranted. Once you and the admiral get it down you will be rockin and rollin. I find the riveting kind of hypnotizing. My tendons on the other hand, hate me the next day. I usually use the buck bar. And my cousin uses the gun. Looking good moser

 

[Moserkr]

@SHSU Hahaha of course there are pictures... it just wasnt done yet.

My practice AL piece was 3/16” thick and i just did the smaller length rivet of the 2 solids I got. I forget what size, but meant to go through 2 pieces of AL on the boat. Ill take some pics of the ones that were not so nice on the boat tomorrow.

Thanks for the input on the fuel tank. I will definitely put the pick up in the rear then. Ive already had a bad experience on big water in a small boat where the gas cut out in between swells. Dont want that happening again!! If i could have 30 gallons on the boat I would lol. So far i average 8-9 gallons a day, but theres a few big lakes out here I want to explore n fish.

@benfish909 Thanks. I definitely started having fun with it! Feels good to be putting it back together!!! Riveting is relaxing and hypnotizing for sure. I was nervous at first but after the testers that all went away. Admiral has been put on notice that her help will be needed. FIL and a few other friends are interested in helping too. I have a lot more drilling to do now!

I almost got the bow put together but forgot to take pics. I did not do the screws and tabs in the right order so getting the screws in has been a challenge. Braces, padding, and all but the cover are in. Al thats left is 2 bolts and 5 wood screws along the top, then rivets and the trim. Got late and I was making too much noise so decided to call it. Will finish up the bow and have more fun tomorrow!!

 

[Moserkr]

Bow is riveted! Just the rub-rail and nose piece left, so will finish that when i get my rails. May be a few, havent ordered yet.

And some pics of my less than stellar riveting lol. Considering they were blinds before, Im not worried. Pretty happy with it so far even though my work isnt the best. Hammered in a few more along the side where i could do it solo. Will move onto the rear and any other structure pieces that use solids til i need help. I like this part

 

[SHSU]

Bow is riveted! Just the rub-rail and nose piece left, so will finish that when i get my rails. May be a few, havent ordered yet.

How did you secure the top: blind? Same holes as the original? Did you add any extras?

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

@SHSU yes top is blinds, except for 1 solid on each side where it meets the other gunnel tops. Then the 5 wood screws across the top. Coated all the wood screws in glue before setting - figured it couldnt hurt.

There were a few extra holes already and everything was pretty close, except for a few. Added 2 new ones on each side in place of ones that were not close enough to line up. Bored out the rest if they were close but not quite right. Half were spot on.

Should I add an extras? It wouldnt be hard to add even more. Also, I was re-reading some threads, and saw something about steel cored rivets starcraft put in holding the inner trim on to the gunnel? Do I need to replace them?

Was debating whether to go hydoturf on the gunnel tops, or go paint with the grip additive. I have a lot of holes to fill in too so either cover with HT or fill n paint... with HT i would tuck the edges under the inner trim and RR, which would require those rivets being removed. Paint, i could leave them in.

Plan tomorrow is work on the boat all day since its a holiday.

 

[Watermann]

Yes SC used the steel mandrel blinds on my Chief and I replaced all the blinds to include the gunnels because they were rusted out and loose.

They also left a bunch of the snapped mandrels inside the boat and this is what was left behind, a rusted powder.

 

[Moserkr]

Thanks @Watermann I believe it was one of your threads I was actually reading that on. I found one of those rust looking spots on my boat and all the blinds are rusty inside...
I could take an hour and replace em quick. Did any of you add more than the original?

Live update, just cleaned up some of the supports with the nylox brush. Going to hammer em in while my drill batteries recharge. Then ill clean up the gunnel shelves and hammer them in later. Bender should be here soon, and transom work is coming up soon too. Made friends with the UPS guy Paul since my driveway is steep, so hes been watching the progress. Told him to join me for a cruise n a beer when its all done.

 

[Watermann]

Thanks @Watermann I believe it was one of your threads I was actually reading that on. I found one of those rust looking spots on my boat and all the blinds are rusty inside...
I could take an hour and replace em quick. Did any of you add more than the original?

Live update, just cleaned up some of the supports with the nylox brush. Going to hammer em in while my drill batteries recharge. Then ill clean up the gunnel shelves and hammer them in later. Bender should be here soon, and transom work is coming up soon too. Made friends with the UPS guy Paul since my driveway is steep, so hes been watching the progress. Told him to join me for a cruise n a beer when its all done.

Going from 5/32 to 3/16 for the gunnels is an idea, I'm sure your trim will still cover them mine did.

 

[Moserkr]

Got all the original supports riveted back in. Used solids again for a more solid build. Also replaced 1/4 of the blinds on the inner gunnel trim, will do another 1/4 after dinner. Then its just the blinds under the RR trim left to do.

The rest of the week I will spend prepping/ building the transom, and filling in extra holes with either rivets or SS bolts? Could i use some jb weld to fill the holes that arent being used permanently? Not sure if that would be strong enough below waterline, but i have lots of holes to fill in along the gunnels and consoles too. A lot of big extra holes go through my transom wood so thats why Im really wondering. I imagine its less work to fill thank prep the transom wood with a bunch of extra holes. Thanks for your thoughts guys! Cheers!!

 

[64osby]

I have filled several holes in smaller tinny's using J-B Weld with an aluminum backer.

 

[Moserkr]

Finished blind riveting the rails today.
Then spent some time prepping the transom too. When I imagine the wood sandwiched to my hull, Im wondering if a thin aluminum backer plate would be an issue? Also looking at 2-part jb weld AL as the filler. Whats the best recommended material for filling the extra holes? They will all be above waterline. Some of these holes are pretty big - 3/8” x4 - held a kicker bracket in place that I dont want back on. All other holes not in the way of the wood will get solid rivets and are below waterline, which they are ready to go now. Ill probably hammer in all the below waterline rivets tonight, and maybe the transom shelf too. Still need to sand the transom smooth - lots of junk left over between excess 5200 and coat-it.

 

[SHSU]

@SHSU yes top is blinds, except for 1 solid on each side where it meets the other gunnel tops. Then the 5 wood screws across the top. Coated all the wood screws in glue before setting - figured it couldnt hurt.

The wood screws, were they SS or just standard outdoor rated? I agree with your glue thought, I used 5200 on them.

Should I add an extras?

I followed what @Watermann did with his. Up to you if you want to or not. They lasted 40-50 years before you replaced with the original design.

Was debating whether to go hydoturf on the gunnel tops, or go paint with the grip additive. I have a lot of holes to fill in too so either cover with HT or fill n paint... with HT i would tuck the edges under the inner trim and RR, which would require those rivets being removed. Paint, i could leave them in.

Depends on what you plan on doing. If you are fishing a lot, weights have a tendency to damage the paint. That said, it is easy to repair. Hydroturf makes sense if you are planning on stepping on it a lot and such.

The rest of the week I will spend prepping/ building the transom, and filling in extra holes with either rivets or SS bolts? Could i use some jb weld to fill the holes that arent being used permanently? Not sure if that would be strong enough below waterline, but i have lots of holes to fill in along the gunnels and consoles too. A lot of big extra holes go through my transom wood so thats why Im really wondering. I imagine its less work to fill thank prep the transom wood with a bunch of extra holes. Thanks for your thoughts guys! Cheers!!

If its below waterline and keeping you afloat I would suggest something more permanent then JB weld. Bolt or blind rivets with 5200 work. Patches with rivets and 5200 for the big ones. I had a couple near my knee brace that were filled with JB Water Weld then sandwiched with the Knee brace and external reinforcement plate.

SHSU

That being said, I did fill in the holes on my gunwale

 

[Moserkr]

@SHSU I reused the original screws from starcraft, and the wood glue is tite bond 3. 5200 would probably be better? I need to check to see if i left the supports loose - loosened them to try to get the cover to fit the bow, hope i retightened!! So far Ive left the number of blinds in the trim and gunnels the same as original. I try to move and bend it, and cant, so if it feels solid I leave it be.

I gave some thought about putting HT along the gunnel tops. It is a lot thicker than vinyl - around 1/4" - so tucking under the trim would have been a lot of work. Also I want my gas fill/vent on my gunnel. HT and fuel does not mix with my previous experience on my old floor. Decided to go the paint route with additive for texture. Will be cheaper than HT and less work. I do use the gunnel as a step and weights will hit it fishing, so ill just have to get used to touching it up. Scratches n dents add character. Hoping the additive has a bed liner strength, and if not maybe ill consider something stronger. I know everyone mainly does carpet or vinyl but Im trying to keep my boat free of both of those lol.

For the transom, the holes that I want to fill with jbweld are above waterline, but all would touch the wood. Just worried about it not being flat so when the wood is tight against the hull, my epoxy isnt compromised. All the holes below waterline are luckily perfect size for standard rivets - just need a backer plate for the right thickness. Found a screw POx2 put in the transom - what a PITA to remove!!! I know theres 1-2 more in the hull i get to remove later too. I may follow your footsteps @SHSU and do external reinforcement for the knee brace, or put in 1/4" rivets on my oversized holes, or maybe even both! More metal, more strength, more 5200, less leaks lol.

Going to continue prepping and building my transom this weekend into next week. Have to get the epoxy and wood, cut, drill, seal etc. Bender comes in friday so my opportunity to build is growing, but my time is shrinking for the next few days. We will see what i can get done with my family in town - but may have an extra set of hands for rivets with my Dad around. Also ran over my phone with my truck yesterday, so replacing that today...

I talk a lot lol. Thanks for your help gentlemen. Without this group there would be a lot of shotty boats falling apart out there, including mine.

 

[Moserkr]

Glad I re-read my thread. I had ordered 1100 pure AL rivets, which is what Ive used so far, and got to @Watermann ’s advice about only using above waterline... good thing I havent started hammering below! Placed an order for 2117T4’s so I should be well covered now. Will have lots of extras for the next boat hahaha. Also probably explains why my riveting didnt look half bad - the pure AL’s smash like butter.

Went to the orange giant today and got me some cdx in as close to 3/4” as their common core math allows them to make it. Plenty to do and Im learning the slow, expensive way lol.

 

[SHSU]

@SHSU I reused the original screws from starcraft, and the wood glue is tite bond 3. 5200 would probably be better? I need to check to see if i left the supports loose - loosened them to try to get the cover to fit the bow, hope i retightened!! So far Ive left the number of blinds in the trim and gunnels the same as original. I try to move and bend it, and cant, so if it feels solid I leave it be.

If the screws are original and in good shape, I would reuse them again too. As for TB3 vs 5200, I think for this application either works as long as you got some bleed out at the top to seal the wood.

As for the number of rivets on the gunwales, agreed does feel stout as is. So unless you are planning on taking poundings think you should be fine. I planned for Gulf Coast swells and using the cleats for anchor security. Water looks so easy but it packs a powerful punch if your not carful.

For the transom, the holes that I want to fill with jbweld are above waterline, but all would touch the wood. Just worried about it not being flat so when the wood is tight against the hull, my epoxy isnt compromised. All the holes below waterline are luckily perfect size for standard rivets - just need a backer plate for the right thickness. Found a screw POx2 put in the transom - what a PITA to remove!!! I know theres 1-2 more in the hull i get to remove later too. I may follow your footsteps @SHSU and do external reinforcement for the knee brace, or put in 1/4" rivets on my oversized holes, or maybe even both! More metal, more strength, more 5200, less leaks lol.

If you are comfortable with doing JB weld, maybe add some kind of thin aluminum backer to overcoat against. Better then just the JB weld by itself.

Also for the external reinforcement, got to give the credit to @Watermann he is the one that suggested it to me and really glad I did.

SHSU

 

[Moserkr]

@SHSU Well I checked the bow and sure enough, forgot to retighten the screws before putting the cover on. Sometimes I need to stop and think! Lol. Ordered more blind rivets with my correct solids so Ill redo the bow quick n tighten it all down. I think 5200 is better for the screws too, which are all in great shape, so will redo those as well.

Thats true, water is more powerful then I am by a lot. I fully understand the power of it. Spent my younger years lifeguarding, teaching swim, and surfing. Even got into big wave surfing and have paddled in to 20 foot swells. Wish I was in that kind of shape now hahaha. I dont plan on getting into crazy water but id rather be prepared than caught with my pants down. I can imagine the forces of ocean swells and stresses caused by them, and i do want to ocean fish out here close to shore. If Im drilling out the bow to redo it I may as well rip through the gunnels and add some more rivets. Cant hurt it... i believe one of y’all did every 2 inches if I remember correct!

Im comfortable with jb weld above waterline so that will be the plan with a thin aluminum backer and a thin layer of 5200. Ought to do it. If something goes wrong in the resto I have no problem tearing it up next winter and fixing it, but Id sure like to do it right first. Im really leaning towards an external brace and all 1/4” solids on the knee brace. Hats off to @Watermann - read at least 2 of his resto threads out of 6 i think.
Awesome how the next generation of builders are coached by the last. I see names that dont pop up ever in new threads but were “the man” in the old ones. Glad I can be a part of it, even coming in with zero knowledge and a caveman tool set hahaha.

 

[Moserkr]

Back to work! As I was cutting the transom out, I remembered why you glue THEN cut... luckily I have a permanent template that came with the boat - holes drilled and all. Ended up close enough and when I round the edges with the sander, ill even out the spots that arent perfect. Then glass n cloth n glass etc.

Also fixed 5 bad solids in the SW for a quick fix of the hammer gun. Will remove the bow cover again and tighten her back up tonight too.

Bender should be here today, along with other odds n ends. Should be fabricating brackets and braces soon! Also will start on the rivets below waterline as soon as my new harder rivets are in. Got a plan in mind to take as little of the Admiral’s time as possible!

 

[Moserkr]

Quick questions regarding the transom - should I glass it then drill the holes, or holes first then glass? In the end it will have glass and cloth with oversized holes drilled out so no bolts/screws contact the actual wood.

Also epoxy calls for temps between 70-80 in a well ventilated area... I have a garage with electric or propane (big buddy) heat. Doubt I can get it to 70* being uninsulated. I remember reading about heat lamps. Any advice as far as temps go? I mainly have the transom to epoxy, and later on parts of the deck.

Thanks guys! Lots of tools and pieces are in so Im about to kick it into high gear. Doubled the blind rivets along the gunnels and redid the bow to tighten the supports. Compared to when I first got her, she is already more stout. Will be light years ahead once Im done.

Also got a plan in mind for my rear bench/ down rigger setup... cant wait to get to that point. Boat will be unique compared to any Ive seen online so far.