1979 Glastron Carlson CV-23 restoration

[zool]

You'll probably end up trying different methods and settling on what works best for you with the window of time you have based on what type of resin u use. Ive tried every way over the years, including saturating the cloth in a tray of resin and draping it over the stringers wet on wet. That worked the quickest but its messy and sticky and ended up changing cloves every few minutes to keep from getting resin on everything. In the end, ive been pre cutting the pieces needed, and using cheap plastic alligator clamps to hold the cloth in place, and wetting it out. It keeps everything in place till it sets up.

I use strictly epoxy so my working time is very long compared to poly or vinyl ester.

 

[docmirror]

"apply some amount of resin to the area being glassed, apply the fiberglass cloth to the area, and then try to soak the remaining amount of resin needed 'in to' the cloth. Thus the 'soak in' method."

This is prezactly what I was going to do. Cut the cloth, set it in place, and then dab, push, wipe, roll, and otherwise force the resin on/in the glass and to the substrate(s) being joined. I get the plan now, and I've decided I will not try it myself.

I got the FG guy out of there, now I'm $3400 lighter in the wallet. I would estimate the work done valued about $2000 or a bit more. Some of it is good detailed work. Just so damn slow. Plus he lived in my hangar cabin for almost two months.

I'm interviewing another boat repair guy next week. We'll see how it goes.

 

[docmirror]

Thanks for the glass advice, do appreciate it, but honestly, I want a pro to do this. Not a boat I want to start learning on if I put a big motor in it. I can do a lot of things, and if it were some simple little fiberglass gewgaw I would jump in. Speedboat hull stringers on a 45 year boat is not a wise plan.

 

[docmirror]

OK, it's time for an update. Today I hauled the boat to the new glass repair guy. He has some different ideas than the first guy, and he's looked at it and is telling me he's done this a bunch of times. He had 3 boats in the shop right now with similar condition, and one of them almost done. The cost is going to be $1200-1600 depending on what needs to be cut back first. I sure hope this goes smooth, but we'll see. There's a lot of wood came with the project, and also some resin, but he's using a different resin for this job.

I will have it there for 2 weeks and go check and see where we are. I'm not building the engine yet, but I'll start on that after the holiday. Moving forward at a snail pace, but no rush as I have until May to get it in the water.

 

[88 Capri (2022 SOTY)]

I will have it there for 2 weeks and go check and see where we are. I'm not building the engine yet, but I'll start on that after the holiday. Moving forward at a snail pace, but no rush as I have until May to get it in the water.

It's not worth it to rush because something gets missed or needs to be redone, any progress is good as long as it is done correctly.

 

[docmirror]

It's not worth it to rush because something gets missed or needs to be redone, any progress is good as long as it is done correctly.

Agree. He is going to get it in soon. I'm not rushing him. Just that I don't get left hanging like that last spit-for-brains.

 

[docmirror]

OK, I got a few pics from the FG repair guy today. I can't link them yet, as they are from a text on a phone, need to download them. He's got a lot of work done, and is ready to install the tank. A few more support bits, and I'll have the tank in, and connected. Then we can close up the floor, and get started on the engine work and install.

I'm probably going for a 514 stroker and a high lift cam. I have the right carb and intake, will need to get the block bored and honed, then put in the stroker kit. Wondering about the right type of cam. Can't go too long duration because that doesn't work well in boats with no gears. Bigger lift for sure, but not a lot of duration or overlap. Ideas?

 

[tpenfield]

Inboard (I/O) boat engines do need to have fairly mild cams, because of the wet exhaust. Too much duration and/or too little lobe separation will result in both intake and exhaust valves being open (enough) at the top of the exhaust stroke to create 'reversion', which will tend to pull water into the cylinders at idle speeds.

Not really related to having gears or not.

Comp Cams has some marine cams to consider.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I'm probably going for a 514 stroker and a high lift cam. I have the right carb and intake, will need to get the block bored and honed, then put in the stroker kit. Wondering about the right type of cam. Can't go too long duration because that doesn't work well in boats with no gears. Bigger lift for sure, but not a lot of duration or overlap. Ideas?

nothing to do with gearing, and has to do with the boat exhaust being cooled by water

cams have to be chosen to prevent reversion

you have to have zero overlap so you dont suck water back into the engine at idle and low RPM due to the wet exhaust.

basically about 270 degrees duration max and a 114 degree LSA

additionally, because of reversion potential, you have to limit your idle spark advance to 10 or less and custom curve your advance.

other option is very expensive custom exhaust or in your case, really long over-transom jet boat headers

I have a custom ground marine cam that was not supposed to have reversion, yet had some reversion at RPM's 1500 and below if my base timing was over 6 degrees. because of that, my water is jacketed for 48" until it gets to the mufflers before exiting. When running on the stand, you could see the water blow out the exhaust about 12" and get sucked back in by the next cylinder while at idle in the videos. It pooled in the bottom of the exhaust manifolds and ran into the cylinders

 

[tpenfield]

@Scott Danforth . . . do you have a link to the reversion videos? It would be a cool thing to see.

 

[Scott Danforth]

@Scott Danforth . . . do you have a link to the reversion videos? It would be a cool thing to see.

this video when you go frame by frame you can see ti

even in this video with the +6" elbows

I did take a gopro video at 60 frames per second which shows it more clearly. let me see where I put that.

 

[docmirror]

I don't think I made my self clear, trying to cut corners. When I say 'have no gears' what I mean is I 'have no gears'. Where a cam with long duration and close lobe separation may make big power, it will be quite peaky, and not have good mid range power. This is fine if one can get the car/truck/boat/whatever up into the power band easily.

Noting that I will be running a B impeller, it's going to be tough to get out of the hole, unless I have a Lenco 2 speed between the lump and the jet. And, that's not going to happen. I need a flatter, more broad power band to get the hole shot with the B impeller.

As for exh reversion, the water logs do not get any water delivered to the exh stream until after the risers. The possibility of reversion might, in a distant galaxie come up in a condition of very low idle, very high water flow(impossible), and water backing up OVER the riser behind the logs. I won't go anywhere near the overlap or duration that will get into the condition.

 

[Scott Danforth]

As for exh reversion, the water logs do not get any water delivered to the exh stream until after the risers. The possibility of reversion might, in a distant galaxie come up in a condition of very low idle, very high water flow(impossible), and water backing up OVER the riser behind the logs. I won't go anywhere near the overlap or duration that will get into the condition.

It's not about water flow, it's about water mist being drawn back during overlap

Nothing special about your exhaust. And yes, just like the elbows in my video, water is introduced after the elbows. Both elbows in my video are longer than stock elbows by a significant factor and I still had reversion as the amount of overlap can suck in the exhaust wave front

Bud of mine up near Chicago build a 514 stroker for his Tahiti jet boat and had reversion with stock water logs and snails. Ended up with over-transom long tubes with turndowns.

Also, isn't the powerglide shorter than the lenco?

 

[docmirror]

Absolutely and positively nothing like the exhaust water jacket in your videos.

What I have, with discharge water introduced to the far right NPT fitting at bottom and then to the flapper and transom hull thru fitting:


What you show in vids:


Water introduced at or before elbow.

Ain't no water going up over the riser, through the exh log, back up the manifold port, into the exh port, and to the exh valve. Stop mistakenly telling me what I don't have in my boat. This is not my first rodeo.

 

[chevymaher]

My chevelle for example has a cam. It has reversion all the way to the intake tract when it is cold and iding. It isnt so far fetched. Once water cools it in there is gonna cause low pressure and suck raw water in.

 

[docmirror]

My chevelle for example has a cam. It has reversion all the way to the intake tract when it is cold and iding. It isnt so far fetched. Once water cools it in there is gonna cause low pressure and suck raw water in.

Do I understand, you think you are getting water from the exh stack, back through the exh valve, back through the cyl, up through the intake valve, up the intake runner, and backward through the carb? And, it is not fuel/air vapor, but actually, water?

If you don't mind, next time the air cleaner is off, and you have this water reversion up out of the carb, take a chunk of cardboard over the carb and get it saturated with 'water'. Then, while still video capture, set it on fire for us.

 

[docmirror]

I just got the boat back from the shop and it looks so much better. The cost was quite reasonable and I'm happy with the job. I haven't had a chance to take pics as it's been cold and a bit wet, but I'll get some pics next trip to the hangar. He also replaced the engine bay stringers and put some real heavy glass down there. I'm preparing to set the engine mount plates in place, and drill the holes for the engine mount.

With that in mind, I realize I'm going through the glass, through the wood inside, and will be using two pieces of steel sandwiching the stringer. I plan to use use plenty of silicone on the stainless bolts, silicone where the steel plates mate to the stringer, and silicone around the edge of the plates on each inside and outside. All in an effort to keep water from ingressing into the wood. I can't think of any other way to keep those holes dry, unless someone has other ideas?

Pics to come in a week or so when I get back down there. I'm also ready to take the engine apart for boring and rebuild. As much as I would like to make it into a hair-on-fire 532 with dual quads, sanity has prevailed and I'm going to just go 80 thou over-bore and a mild street cam that doesn't cause out the intake water reversion.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I just got the boat back from the shop and it looks so much better. The cost was quite reasonable and I'm happy with the job. I haven't had a chance to take pics as it's been cold and a bit wet, but I'll get some pics next trip to the hangar. He also replaced the engine bay stringers and put some real heavy glass down there. I'm preparing to set the engine mount plates in place, and drill the holes for the engine mount.

With that in mind, I realize I'm going through the glass, through the wood inside, and will be using two pieces of steel sandwiching the stringer. I plan to use use plenty of silicone on the stainless bolts, silicone where the steel plates mate to the stringer, and silicone around the edge of the plates on each inside and outside. All in an effort to keep water from ingressing into the wood. I can't think of any other way to keep those holes dry, unless someone has other ideas?

Pics to come in a week or so when I get back down there. I'm also ready to take the engine apart for boring and rebuild. As much as I would like to make it into a hair-on-fire 532 with dual quads, sanity has prevailed and I'm going to just go 80 thou over-bore and a mild street cam that doesn't cause out the intake water reversion.

Hopefully when you say silicon, you mean 3M 5200 or an equivalent.