DJ, make sure you give that ply a week or two to "acclimate" before you go chopping/installing!
Hey guys I need some help.....
I have been looking for a good how to or a video on replacing rivets. I have read doing it incorrectly can cause your rivet to work-harden and be brittle. I know a correct gun is needed and a bucking bar. Which side do you use the gun? inside or outside the boat? I assume the hammer on the gun needs to be a correct shape? I don't think this should be too difficult but just need it explained or demonstrated. Links would be appreciated. I am at that point where I can't go any farther until I get the rivets (maybe 20 or so) fixed.
THANKS!!!
I did get my marine ply today and have to go unload it now. Menards shipped it with a piece of 3/8 plywood on top and bottom which I get to keep. Since I think I am going to do the rear floor a little different, these will be handy for using as templates before I cut the $$$$ stuff.
Dropped the boat off tonight to get some holes welded up in the transom. Should have it back in a day or two. My gluvit arrived and my epoxy should be here by early next week. I think I have figured out what rivets, sets, and gun to get, just haven't got around to it yet.
Does anyone know if the rivets in our boats are soft rivets or hard rivets? I am pretty sure soft as the hard ones are supposed to have a dimple on the head.
Look what I scored on ebay for $2......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190454178466&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
The first time I had the boat out another boat bumped the side of mine while we were at the dock getting ready to take the boat out of the water. I didn't see any damage until I got home and noticed my emblem was broke and the other piece was back in the river. I was just going to get decals until this came along.
The rivets in starcrafts are soft. The rivet sets or dies that you need for brazier head rivets (bought my actual rivets through grainger..they showed up in two days) are as follows: 5/32 is AN 4555, 3/16 is AN 4556, 1/4 is AN 4558. The gun I got was a US Industrial Tool Company made for the aircraft industry. Many different websites sell the rivet sets/dies. If they don't list the number just make sure it is a "brazier head" not a "modified brazier head", they are different. I bought my dies from US Industrial Tool. Hope this helps.
Hey Dave. My gun is a 2X and it is all you need. You can use a 3X but a 4X is definitely overkill. The 2X is more than appropriate for what we are doing. I have heard that the longer stroke may require fewer hits but it only takes about 10 seconds anyway with the 2X. I practiced on one rivet and then was off to the races. It really is quite easy to use a rivet gun...easier than I thought it would be. The whole bucker bar thing you would have to ask my wife about though. She was the holder on that.
Floyd
I mentioned before about filling in all the snaps on the gunwalls as I don't have full canvas, BUT, say I did want to get canvas someday, will they make the new canvas to fit the snaps that are there if I leave them?
I have also mentioned replacing my rubrail. Has anyone replaced the whole deal (aluminum and insert) with a newer TACO one? I need some recomendations what to do here as my insert doesn't appear to be made anymore. Just don't kow how one of the other kind would look.
Thanks.