1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Got the engine off the boat and on to my stand tonight. That was a job and a half. I borrowed a cherry picker from my brother but failed to think about how the picker was going to work with the stand I built. Not good. Seems the legs on the picker needed to be in the same place as the legs on the stand. I highly recomend a hook in the garage ceiling over a picker but we (my Dad and I) did manage to get it on the stand, and it only almost tipped over once in the process. No pics of this fiasco.
 

North Beach

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Sep 29, 2008
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

There's another step behind you Dave:D
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

You must have :eek: when you saw that motor going over!

Glad all is well now!
 

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

What will take carpet glue off the hull?
 

RobbyA

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 5, 2010
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306
Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

If you haven't seen it go to this thread for an idea in flipping the boat.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=424635

Post number 39 is where it starts, I know you boat is a little bigger but perhaps you could incorporate this idea into your own. I am going to use it when I get to that stage.
 

North Beach

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Sep 29, 2008
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Dave I couldn't get anything to work so I just used a razor scraper like you remove decals with and a lot of blades:eek:
 

fshngho

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Apr 1, 2009
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1,332
Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

It depends on if its contact cement or general purpose carpet glue. Remember any chemical is dangerous so be safe: gasoline or paint stripper sometimes works. I would use EZ's suggestion but if all else fails, a carpet flooring company can sell you a remover.
 

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

We're getting there. Still working on foam removal. Getting down to the nitty gritty tedious part. The foam sticks to all the seams and rivets, so I'm being thourough so the gluvit doesn't get impeded by foam. I got the drill out with a 4" fine wire wheel on it and that worked pretty well getting the seams and around the rivets.

I worked mostly on the port side tonight.
IMG_2474.jpg


This is the starboard side. After much debating I figured it was a time saver to take off the L-bracket that holds the deck. As you can see, trying to dig the foam out from under there was frustrating to say the least. With it off it took maybe a half hour to clean the rib out. (see port side again)

IMG_2469.jpg


Bow shot.
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To the stern shot.
IMG_2473.jpg


And a Thank You to NB for the tip in getting carpet glue off. The razor blade in a holder was slick. The more pressure you put down on it the better it worked. I scraped the whole port side in about 15 minutes. I don't think I need to take it down to bare aluminum do I? There is just a very light film or discoloration left from the glue. SC got a little crazy with the amount of glue up in the bow.
 

sprintst

Commander
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Apr 18, 2009
Messages
2,066
Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

I should have done the same as well. I did the cubby holes but the bow area needs to be done. It just might get carpet :)
 

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Took the boat to a painter tonight to see about having it painted. This is a welding/fabrication/hot-rod shop not to far from me. They came recomended by a few guys I work with, and a couple of cars & trucks they had there were beautiful. They said they would do it for what I thought a decent price including filling (welding) some holes. When it comes to painting, my time is better spent at work doing what I do (as much overtime as I want) and let him (the painter) do what he does. Going to keep her looking original but instead of grey/white and red were going to go more with a normal white and red. I plan on taking off all the trim, snaps, and whatever else is screwed to the hull and get the transom replaced before painting, which leads me to a few questions.

The only canvas I plan on using on this boat is the front toneau and a bimini. I don't have, and don't plan on getting full canvas. With that said, should I have them fill all the unnecessary snaps?
IMG_2486.jpg


What about all these little bracket thingys.....fill their holes too? There is a bunch of them down both sides....it would sure clean up the gunwalls and my cover doesn't need the aluminum bow brackets.

IMG_2488.jpg


Is this style rubrail still availiable? Mine is red, but black would be fine...

IMG_2485.jpg


Last, the transom seam has some silicone on it on the outside, after I peel it off, is there something I can clean it with to remove any residu as I have read paint don't stick to silicone.

IMG_2504.jpg


Thanks for the help!
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Hey DJ, If you are sure you won't be going with any canvas there I'd pull all that stuff off and fill it in. I agree, it will clean up your deck nicely.

On your rub rail - I couldn't find that exact style made anymore. A super awesome iboat Starcraft bro hooked me up with a section to make mine complete. You'd have to find a boat that is likely scrapped out to find matching stuff. If you'd like to go all new Taco makes a rub rail that will fit, you can find it right here on iboats I believe.

If you don't mind me intruding.....

What was their estimate on painting? Man a pro job would be sweet!

Cheers!
 

fshngho

Lieutenant
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Apr 1, 2009
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

I'm curious about the cost too. I am still going to do mine 'cause I don't got no extra money:redface:
DJ that silicone does have to be removed. Personally I would wire wheel it to make sure all residue is gone. Not sure if there is a chemical that will remove it 100%
 

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

When I talked to the painter earlier in the week on the phone, off my description I gave him of my boat he said a very rough estimate would be 5-8 hundred bucks. That seemed a little to good to be true so I said I would bring it by so he could take a look. I like to talk person to person to make sure we're on the same page and I had some more questions. The first thing he said when I got there was "that thing is bigger than I was thinking". After we talked about filling some holes and paint type (2-part) I said "1500 get me what I want?" He said that should be do-able. I was pleased with our conversation. If I went with a one-part and didn't have holes to fill it would have been 3-4 hundred less. He also said don't worry about flipping it, they will hang it high enough to do the bottom and then set it back down and do the sides and gunwalls. So I hope to have it to him in 4-6 weeks.
 

djpeters

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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Got a lot done today.

Splashwell and transom out!!! If you look closely at the stamp on the transom it says in one spot "plugged" and further down "exterior".

IMG_2527.jpg


IMG_2528.jpg


IMG_2529.jpg


IMG_2534.jpg


Six rivets sheared off at the bottom of this cross brace, none were missing, just sheared off.

IMG_2533.jpg


I've been told my rub rail insert is no longer availiable. Can I replace the whole deal, aluminum rail and insert?

IMG_2540.jpg


I can't decide what to coat my new transom in. Please talk me into either epoxy (be specific, and where to get) or poly, which I would need mat also? I'm thinking I need to start ordering some stuff, I can't take much more apart.
 

coolbikeguy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
491
Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

im going to use epoxy resin on mine.... that seems to be a favorite on here. with the epoxy there is no mat needed. i got my resin from us composites. there are i think only 2 or maybe 3 actual manufacturers of the stuff in the country and us composites is one of them. CBG
 

sprintst

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Apr 18, 2009
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

I used the epoxy resin from east systems. It's a knockoff of west systems but works the same and is a bit cheaper. If I was in the US I'd use the US Composites as they seem to have great prices and product.

I didn't mat it as I wanted it to be dead flat. I coated it in the epoxy and it both seals and hardens it. The two layers were sandwiched together with epoxy mixed with cabosil to make a peanut butter like subtance and spread with a 2.00adhesive spreader from Home Depot. It's just a small notched trowel. There are pics somewhere in my thread.
 

sprintst

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Apr 18, 2009
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Used my old rub rail and inserts but I think NorthBeach or Ezmobee had the link to a rub rail insert that isn't exactly the same but works. It's got more of a rounded contour. I think the reply on the insert is in my thread as well :)
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

I went with US Composites too, best deal in town.

Taco (right here on iboats) will have the whole rubrail and insert if you want to replace what you have there.

Good progress!!:D
 

djpeters

Lieutenant Commander
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Re: 1979 22' Starcraft SuperSport V5 Restoration

Did some checking around and prices on marine grade plywood are all over the place so I called around again and started asking specifics. My local high quality lumber yard had 3/4" fir AB for $90, I assume that this would be the good stuff. Lowes had 3/4" marine BC for $65-ish IIRC. A high quality lumber and custom mill had 3/4" marine ply for (gasp) $120. Menards had 3/4" marine (fir) 7-ply AB for $70. Menards is the clear winner and also had 1/2" (fir) 5-ply AB for $50. I think I will order some wood tomorrow.

How much Gluvit should I get? I assume a gallon...will that be enough?

I am going to go with U.S. Composites epoxy with medium hardener. Seeing that I am covering marine ply with it, how much should I start with, say to laminate and seal the transom?

On the transon, should I drill all the holes oversize and completely fill them with epoxy and then redrill? or is there a different way? What do you do about any wood screws that go in from the back side throug brackets and into the transom?

Thanks.
 
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