1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Ron0339

Cadet
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Aug 11, 2013
Messages
14
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

When I get back into the office ill upload the pictures of the installed stringers, I've just been waiting to completely finish them before I upload.
It's possible to remove the transom with out taking out the top cap..
But you would damage your top cap, deck and strings..then you would have to remove the top cap anyway to repair them.
The top cap wasn't that hard to get off, just be sure to detach it from the transom, that was the tricky bit.

If you could send me as many pics as you can and any instructive type information. I'm a little nervous doing this as I have never tried anything like this before. Thanks.
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
Messages
90
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Starting fillets

Tabbed with CSM

Glassed with 1708 Biax

Hardened Biax

Cutting the cross sections where the deck will be screwed to (1x4" cross pieces)
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Stringers dry fitted, then screwed some cross sections into it so we could just lift them out of the boat, apply spacers and PL for bedding.

put back into boat

PL was layed, mixed up some PB with lots of 1/4" CSM hairs (for added strength), cabosil, glued to transom and slightly tabbed in, I'll add some 1708 glass to really tab them well to the transom.

Added some weight so they would bed properly.


I started tabbing in the stringers with 1708, once I get them finished this weekend I'll post more progress pics :)
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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25,063
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Mon, how long did you wait between the bedding of the stringers in PL & starting to tab them w/ 1708?

PL often needs 72hrs to cure & stop off gassing while it does.

Tabbing them in w/ poly resin, including PB fillets, or epoxy, too soon & you run the risk of the fiberglass delaminating from the wood stringer.
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Thanks for the tip!
I only started some small parts of the stringers 2 days after the bedding, however one side remains open (I just did 1/4 length of one side stringer to see how it would adhere to the hull).
So I suppose it will be 7 days since I'll start back up this weekend.

Will certainly keep that 72 hour number in my head.

Thanks
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Probably take longer then 72hrs w/ tabbing on 1 side.

Just pay particular attention to the glass work you've already done when you get back on, check it very carefully. Since it will have been 7 days, hopefully any problems would already be evident.
 

M_metzger1114

Recruit
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
1
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

I have almost* the same boat lol I just got it from my sister. It's got a 351 that I just got running pretty good but the interior is trashed. This is my first boat and I know nothing about fiberglass. Hopefully ill be using this thread along with a lot of others as a guide! You've got some great info and pics. Thanks!
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Finished most of the stringer glass work (just got to add the capping glass pieces and a few patch spots at the front), added the cross pieces (I doubled the size from the originals), glued and screwed everything down.
I'll be doing some more prep work next weekend (sanding down the joints, building the bilge area, little more glasswork, and waterproofing).

The stringers are very strong, there's no way I can move move them laterally let alone vertically. I'm very surprised at the strength... and they will be even more sturdy once the flotation foam is poured and the deck is in place.

You can't see the extra stringer tabbing to the transom in the below pic, but they're glued to the transom, 1 layer of PB with 1/4" hairs for strength and filleting, followed by a layer of 1708 tabbing, followed by another layer of 1708 (when laying the 1708 on the stringers I just continued the excess onto the transom), followed by another layer of 1708 tabbing which connects the transom stringer AND hull.

When this was all pulled apart (which lasted 30 years) I could pull up the stringers with no effort (there was no bedding) and the only glass on the strings was in 3 spots, not to mention the glass only touched the top of the stringer and never followed it down the sides. The foam and deck was what really held it together.


Doesn't look like much and is not very pretty but there was a lot of glass work and fine adjustments to get this into place (like leveling the boat).

Each cross section is cut at a 45 degree angle at each side, is PL'd into place then screwed down, and then more PL is squirted underneath the 45 degree cut and the hull, sort of joining the hull with the secondary stringers and cross sections. This was the original design.

The random cross piece in the front is to add little more support to the deck top cap section that is made out of plastic and built in. This is not a factory piece.
 

bakerjw

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 3, 2013
Messages
288
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Very good looking work so far and fast progress. Just curious as to what kind of wood are you using for the cross boards and bulkheads.

Myself, I'm not a fan of PL. It's too difficult to sand down. But then again I'm using epoxy on my current rebuild.
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Very good looking work so far and fast progress. Just curious as to what kind of wood are you using for the cross boards and bulkheads.

Myself, I'm not a fan of PL. It's too difficult to sand down. But then again I'm using epoxy on my current rebuild.

Hey baker,
Ya PL can be tricky to sand but I've found it not to bad, its also very very strong and inexpensive..
Almost everything I've been doing consists of PL then epoxy+glass re-enforcement and water proofing.
I'm using 2x4's for the bulk heads between the stringers, the originals were 1 inch thick and cut to fit, but that only served to trap more water in the hull.
My bilge bulkhead will have glass coming off the attached 2x4 and will be glassed into the hull and stringers.
I'm not to sure how I will be sealing the back quarter from the stringers to the secondary stringers as of yet... But I do know the back quarter will be totally sealed from the the rest of the boat.
There will be a clean out area in the middle of the deck in case there is some form of condensation and the foam will have the appropriate channels to route any fluids in the hull to the clean out.

The cross pieces are 1x4" I believe.

Materials:
Stringers = 12' x 1.5" (2x3/4" ply) - Originals were 1" if I recall.
Secondary stringers = 1x3" - Original spec
Deck = 4x8' @ 1/2" thick, + Custom cut front in 1/2" as well. - Original spec
Transom = 2 pieces of 3/4" Ply - Original spec
Main stringer bulk heads = 2x4" - Originals were 1" thick cut to fit
Cross pieces where the deck will screw into = 1x4" - Originals were 1x2"

Water channels:
Bilge Area = Handles any water coming off the deck
Middle clean out = Handles any water that may come from other areas.. it should be totally sealed though. Channels will be embedded into the foam.

Cheers,
 

Ron0339

Cadet
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
14
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Looks good. I had to put mine on hold for awhile :blue:
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

My last update until next summer;

Got the floor in and had to put her away... I still have some sanding and painting to do in the bilge area, also have to lay a few layers of glass on top of the deck next season before I get the top cap back on and start re-modeling :p




 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,928
Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Didja glass the underside of the Decking?
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Didja glass the underside of the Decking?
BottomSide: 1 layer 1.5oz CSM with Poly Resin, with 2 lb/cubic urethane foam below the deck (I'll pour it next season when it warms up for max expansion).
TopSide: Will be done with 2 layers of 1.5oz CSM with Epoxy, sanded, then followed up with a layer or 2 of InterDeck.
 

monnewbie3

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Sep 12, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1978 Starcraft Tri-Hull Rebuild Project

Oh and I almost forgot;

The deck will also be tabbed in next season with epoxy and 1708 Biax, it got to cold this year to do much more glass work.
Right now the deck is screwed and glued down, it's rock solid but I'll be happier once it's officially tabbed in for even more strength and water proofing.
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
Messages
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Summer is back in full swing, and I've been back at it, Deck is almost done.

Decided to lay the deck up with 2 layers of 1.5OZ CSM (on top of 1708 biax) with some 6oz cloth on top for a smooth finish, I'll also be coating it with evercoat skid no more.
Below deck is filled with closed cell marine foam.
 

monnewbie3

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 12, 2011
Messages
90
Time to Start the grinding...
6JaqrG7.jpg


Little PL Work lol
zsGJnWF.jpg


Getting Ready for tabbing
FHjlcR0.jpg

w4ZSJQl.jpg


1708 Biax Tab
lONWTjK.jpg
 
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