1978 Islander 22 I/O

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Trying to upload some pictures to go with my last post.

I think the keyhole on this boat should be good to go, no tailoring necessary. It has the squared bottom. It's the shape of an Alpha 1 Gen 2, is that right?
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Still can't post pictures...

I've made a lot of progress since the problem with posting pictures, but I don't want to overload describing it in one post. So, I'm going to post my progress one step at a time as though it were being done right now even though it's been weeks.

After I primed the transom skin (two coats), I painted it with three coats of Total Boat's Aluminum Boat Paint (white), and I removed the cabin windows because I plan to have them remade at a local shop.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Pix,are a problem at the server level

Mod team has been trying to get Admin to address it for weeks, no fix yet but to use a 3rd party pix site and post a link to your pix
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Once I had the primer and topcoats painted, I switched my focus to the transom.

Last summer I built a 1.5" Coosa transom. To do that, I had to create a template because the existing transom was so rotted that it crumbled upon removal. So, first, I created a template on corrugated plastic, then, to make sure I got a good fit, I created a Marine Grade Ply template from the plastic template (I used Marine Ply because it will have a future purpose in my project). Then, the final 1.5" Coosa transom was cut from the Marine Grade Ply template.

This brings us up to speed on my transom build. From last year's work, I had my 1.5" Coosa Transom, without the 1/2" horse collar, without the keyhole cut-out. So, I built a 1/2" Coosa horse collar. To do this, first, I cut-out the horse collar from the 1/2" MARINE PLY template and used that cut-out as my template for cutting out the 1/2" Coosa Horse Collar. This left me with a Coosa Horse Collar that matched up to my transom perfectly and a Marine Grade Ply Template with the exact same horse collar shape missing from it. I spread some 5200 around the edges of the Coosa Horse Collar, screwed it in place on my Coosa transom with flush mount screws, placed 50lbs of weight on it, and let it cure for about a week.
 

66Holiday924

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Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
When the horse collar was ready and the 5200 was cured I cutout the keyhole. It's going to work, but to be honest, it wasn't my finest work... I ended up using a 1.75" dia., 6" deep hole saw to cut out the 60-degree steering and I did it free hand. I give myself credit for getting the correct angle free hand but one hole was slightly higher than the other, so it's not the most aesthetically pleasing thing... Again, it's going to work just fine. I would give it a C+, but I can sand it to be a B+, -A.

Once the keyhole was cutout, I installed the transom with 1/4" 316 SS 2.5" bolts, nuts, & washers, 8 - #10 316 SS screws across the z-bar, and a healthy dose of 5200 for all of them. Measuring my keyhole, with transom skin, I'm 2-1/8" thick.

I am currently waiting for the 5200 on the bolts to cure while work on my final transom component, the Marine Grade Ply layer.
 
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havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
When the horse collar was ready and the 5200 was cured I cutout the keyhole. It's going to work, but to be honest, it wasn't my finest work... I ended up using a 1.75" dia., 6" deep hole saw to cut out the 60-degree steering and I did it free hand. I give myself credit for getting the correct angle free hand but one hole was slightly higher than the other, so it's not the most aesthetically pleasing thing... Again, it's going to work just fine. I would give it a C+, but I can sand it to be a B+, -A.

Once the keyhole was cutout, I installed the transom with 1/4" 316 SS 2.5" bolts, nuts, & washers, 8 - #10 316 SS screws across the z-bar, and a healthy dose of 5200 for all of them. Measuring my keyhole, with transom skin, I'm 2-1/8" thick.

I am currently waiting for the 5200 on the bolts to cure while work on my final transom component, the Marine Grade Ply layer.
If you have to remove that transom assembly, that is going to be a huge challenge using 5200.

That stuff is for permanent mounts such as bow and stern eyes.

Some may disagree, but should have been 4200 for the bolt holes.
 

66Holiday924

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Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
If you have to remove that transom assembly, that is going to be a huge challenge using 5200.

That stuff is for permanent mounts such as bow and stern eyes.

Some may disagree, but should have been 4200 for the bolt holes. I used it on the through bolts that secure the Coosa transom to the transom skin.


I didn't use 5200 to install the transom assembly, I used it to install the transom itself.
 

66Holiday924

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Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Currently as the 5200 is curing in the through-bolts for my coosa transom, I shifted focus to the marine-grade ply template that I previously made, as part of my process for building the coosa transom. So, I had my ply template, which I had used to build the horse collar, which resulted in an exact piece missing from the ply template that matches my coosa horse collar. I trimmed the bottom and edges a little, voila the ply fits perfect inside the Z-bar framing and wraps around the horse collar perfectly to create a 1/2" Marine-Grade Ply layer to the transom that will be flush with the coosa horse collar.

I created this ply layer to mitigate the two main problems there are to working with coosa.

1. Touching coosa is like touching fiberglass insulation, so it would not be pleasant to work around and near in the cramped area of a transom.
2. It doesn't have the holding power that plywood has when you screw into it. It's a lot like king's starboard, easy to strip out, won't have the same bite if you back a screw in and out.

So, currently the 5200 is curing in my through-bolts on my transom and I am treating the plywood layer with the "Old Timer's Formula" (two parts mineral spirits, one part boiled linseed oil, one part Helmsman Polyurethane). I'm supposed to let that cure for 72 hours and then I have some white, oil-based Rustoleum brand machine paint I'm going paint over top. The white paint adds another layer of protection, but it also makes it easy later to find stuff that's mounted to the transom, everything on it will stick out like a sore thumb.

Later this week after the paint is cured, I'll install the Marine-Ply layer with about a half-dozen dozen 316 stainless lags, with very aggressive threading. They will easily be enough to hold it in place until things start getting mounted through it that will hold it, (i.e. tie down eyes, kicker motor mount, etc.)

And with this update, I think you're pretty much up to speed with me. I'll post pictures of everything when they get it fixed.
 
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66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Here's a question for iBoats, I'm considering getting a pair of Bennet Trim Tabs for this boat. I'm thinking 12x12 electric, Bennet BOLTS. So, the question is, how far did you mount your transducer from your trim tabs, and do they interfere with it at all? I talked to Garmin on the phone and they don't have an answer.

I want to figure this out because I think now would be the best time to mount them if it's going to have them.
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
Here's a question for iBoats, I'm considering getting a pair of Bennet Trim Tabs for this boat. I'm thinking 12x12 electric, Bennet BOLTS. So, the question is, how far did you mount your transducer from your trim tabs, and do they interfere with it at all? I talked to Garmin on the phone and they don't have an answer.

I want to figure this out because I think now would be the best time to mount them if it's going to have them.
"Do they interfere" is a question I can't exactly answer because I don't have a "before/after" comp to make.

I don't get perfect performance on-plane with this configuration, but it's also a touchy transducer to get going anyway. The tabs are bennett M120 10x12

20201004_164235-jpg.335078
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
"Do they interfere" is a question I can't exactly answer because I don't have a "before/after" comp to make.

I don't get perfect performance on-plane with this configuration, but it's also a touchy transducer to get going anyway. The tabs are bennett M120 10x12

Thanks for the response! How did you get a picture to load???
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
Maybe I'm thinking about this all wrong. I don't really need the transducer until I'm fishing, and when I'm fishing, I'll be running a kicker motor, mounted on the port side of the boat. So, I think I basically have the whole starboard side to mount the transducer and trim tabs, and keep a decent distance between them, but at trolling speed, I don't think the trim tabs or my prop on the main drive will affect the transducer readings. I can put the main drive up while I'm fishing if it does.

IDK, I've never set up a fishing boat before. Can anybody tell me if this makes sense?
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
Maybe I'm thinking about this all wrong. I don't really need the transducer until I'm fishing, and when I'm fishing, I'll be running a kicker motor, mounted on the port side of the boat. So, I think I basically have the whole starboard side to mount the transducer and trim tabs, and keep a decent distance between them, but at trolling speed, I don't think the trim tabs or my prop on the main drive will affect the transducer readings. I can put the main drive up while I'm fishing if it does.

IDK, I've never set up a fishing boat before. Can anybody tell me if this makes sense?
Normally you are using the fish finder to find and evaluate spots to fish. Ideally even up on plane but for sure bubbling around at 2-5 mph to see if there are fish around.
 

66Holiday924

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Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
I had a good day doing some corrective sanding on my transom today! I had previously given myself a -C on it, I think I've upgraded it to a B+, and I'm happy with it.

I've been known to be a little rough on myself. In the eyes of others it might be an -A.

As far as trim tabs go, I think I'm going to forego them for now. If I go off of Garmin's transducer install instructions, trim tabs don't fit on this transom. I know people have them on these boats, but I'm not going to put them on knowing they don't really fit with the transducer I plan on using. They would have been very easy to install now, while there is nothing in the way, but they can be added later if I decide I need them.

I painted the 2nd coat of white, machine paint on one side of my plywood layer this morning, tomorrow I'll flip it and paint the other side with two coats, over the next couple days. Then, it will be ready for installation.
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
As far as trim tabs go, I think I'm going to forego them for now. If I go off of Garmin's transducer install instructions, trim tabs don't fit on this transom. I know people have them on these boats, but I'm not going to put them on knowing they don't really fit with the transducer I plan on using. They would have been very easy to install now, while there is nothing in the way, but they can be added later if I decide I need them.
If I remember correctly this was a factor in choosing the Bennet Sports for me. The extra couple of inches narrower on the transom really helped.
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,082
Never needed trim tabs on my 22'Islander once the factory rear mounted fuel tank was removed. It rusted out and was moved forward and replaced with an aluminum tank. The original rear seats beside the motor Were also removed and three seats across the front of the dog house made a much better balance in the boat where the Merc trim unit worked very well without tabs. Just food for thought here.....
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,077
I’m running 12x12 Bennetts, 2- scoop type water intakes, a side scan transducer, a paddle wheel speed sensor, and a conventional thru transducer on an 8’ beam boat.

Clear pictures to WOT at ~40 mph
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
I started work on my custom transom savers. Yesterday I used the corrugated plastic transom template that I had previously made as part of the process for building my Coosa transom, to make a 7"x 24" template that matches the contour of the bottom of my boat on each side. I ordered two pieces of 3/4" black king's starboard that will be the transom savers. I got black because I plan on the bottom of this boat being painted with black antifouling paint and I think 3 - 1/4" 316 stainless bolts to secure each one.
 

66Holiday924

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
577
So, right now I'm coating the plywood layer of my transom with white machine paint and I'm waiting on my king's starboard so I can cut and mount my transom savers. As soon as these two components are done, my plan is to have a mechanic install my gimbal assembly. He's going to rebuild and install, replacing broken or worn parts, gimbal bearing, etc.

While the mechanic is doing that, I'm going to focus on the engine mount. The 4.3 mounts to the stringers in two locations straddling the bilge and I took measurements off of the boat that it was previously installed on. My measurements were taken in relation to the horse collar and the bottom of the keyhole (after engine and transom assembly were removed) and give the exact location (height and distance) of the bolt holes from the bottom of the keyhole on the donor boat. My assumption is that if I can build my mount and put a competent platform at the same location, in relation to the bottom of my keyhole, it should be close enough that the engine will line up properly. It might not be exact, but I can see that there is some play because the mounts can be adjusted up and down a couple of inches.

So, by my measurements for the mount bolt holes on the Thompson's stringers were:
~ 5-1/4" above the bottom of the keyhole
~ 17" from the horse collar - aft bolt hole
~ 22-3/4" from the horse collar - forward bolt hole
~ 22-1/2" between the port and starboard bolts

So, I need to put a competent surface in the same spot and I wish the photo upload was working so you could see the beautiful teak timber that I am going to use to accomplish this.

I wanted to have the transom assembly installed before I build the mount because I'm going to secure the mount to the transom as part of my plan for tying it into the boat and this way (having the transom assembly done first) I don't have to worry about it interfering with that installation.

I'm just some dude trying to put together a boat. If you read something and KNOW I'm on a path to certain failure, PLEASE SPEAK UP!!!
 
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