1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[archbuilder]

Cool glad you are making progress! Looking forward to seeing her in the water!

 

[kcassells]

Looks good GM! Pretty Spiffy says I!

 

[oldrem]

Looking good GM

 

[kcassells]

I'd say you have more than 2 watching :watermelon:

 

[gm280]

Ha thanks all.

Seems I can now take the angle aluminum and start bending it to fit the transom. The time before I tried that, I used mere roofing flashing that was near toilet paper thin, and of course the first attempt at bending it in the curves, tore the aluminum. And I decided it was way to flimsy. So I bought two 8 foot sections of 1" x 1" x 1/16" aluminum angle to make the transom cap. Since it is thicker then the roof flashing, I have plans to cut relief cuts in the curved sections and then Alumiweld the cut areas and fair them out to look like it was formed just for the transom. I honestly believe it will work now.

I know you are probably wondering why I want a cap on the transom. Well, I can see the plywood plies even polyestering it a few times. And with a 3M 5200 adhesive to install it, I think it will help keep any water out for a longer time!

The gas tank is ready for primer and paint and clear coat. But I am still working on the decal/stencil to mimic the original. Problem with that is they used very small font on the original tanks. I have a silk screen made to use ink/paint to do that stencil, and also a vinyl cutout from my son, to attempt it. So we will see how that comes out.

I am also installing a reed fuel sensor and think I will install it in the actual gas cap to keep from cutting up the tank. I can get replacement gas caps. But original 6 gallon tanks are very pricey.

And that brings me to the live well cushion...again. I have everything sitting here, except the courage to cut it out and sew it up. A little push should get that going as well. Again we will see. I have lots of vinyl from the original seat manufacture for each color. So I can make a lot of attempts until I get it where I like it.

Until I get something else to post, you all have a wonderful day.

 

[kcassells]

I know you are probably wondering why I want a cap on the transom. Well, I can see the plywood plies even polyestering it a few times. And with a 3M 5200 adhesive to install it, I think it will help keep any water out for a longer time!​

Paint it or non slip.

 

[archbuilder]

sounds like you are moving along nicely!

 

[gm280]

Finally something to post.

In spite of the cold rainy weather, I did get in the shop today and work on the transom cap. And to my surprise, it looks like it is going to work as planned. There's the real surprise!

I previously told everyone that I bought two sticks of 1"x 1"x 1/16" angled aluminum. I made a transom mock-up way back for this effort. However nothing worked to my liking and that brings to this option. I took that mock-up transom pattern which is the correct thinness of the boat transom. So I took one stick of aluminum and laid it on the mock-up and started marking it at the first bend. And then I cut the sides to allow the aluminum to make the bends without bulging out on the sides. I continued doing that until I had it bent on the mock-up perfectly. And It looks good. I can easily weld those cuts and fair them out and polish the entire cap. Yeah! :high5:

I had to cut one of the angled stick and take off a blade width on my table saw to make the inside fit the transom nicely. But that is what I thought would have to be cut from the beginning. Now I can cut the sides on other stick and then weld them up. I see light at the end of the tunnel, and this time it isn't a train...

I posted some picture so you get the idea....

 

[mickyryan]

Very good , then you can take the welding rods fill the cuts and sand and it will look awesome!

 

[sphelps]

That looks great .. Will those welding rods work in my reg 220 stick welder ?

 

[mickyryan]

you use map gas with those sticks sam its like brazing

 

[sphelps]

Oh ok I just bought one of those little torches .. I have to admit idk much about brazing and welding ..Other than I wish I could .. :lol:

 

[archbuilder]

Looks really good, hopefully the brazing works well!

 

[gm280]

Oh ok I just bought one of those little torches .. I have to admit idk much about brazing and welding ..Other than I wish I could .. :lol:

Sam I didn't know much about welding either. But my son took a welding class at the tech center years (decades) ago and I always wanted to get a welder setup. So I was gifted a Hobart MIG system for a Christmas present also years ago. Of course my first weld were worst then...well...crap. But since that time I have welded tons of things and basically self taught myself how to weld. Once you get to the point of hearing a good weld from a not so good weld, it becomes very easy and tons of fun. I soldered for a living for well over 50 years now, holly crap I am old. But I enjoy welding more then soldering now.

These Alumiweld rods are used with a propane torch and do a very nice job. So that is what this project will be using to make this transom cap. I am certain a TIG setup would be way better, but I will use this for now.

I'm still playing with the idea of a TIG welder. After verifying what I want, I will more then likely buy a TIG soon... I seem to find more and more things that a TIG setup is better for then a MIG. And since a lot of the TIG welders I'm looking at, they also can do stick as well. So that gives me Soldering, MIG, TIG and Stick abilities. Life is good!

Thanks all for the encouraging words. I'll post more as I get more finished...

 

[chevymaher]

Made me look. I was checking out the alumiweld.

 

[gm280]

Okay, I did Alumiweld up one side of the transom cap. However in doing so I basically charred the wood pattern some. Probably still usable but charred all the same. I Also feathered in a few welds using a 2" flapper wheel and for the most part, it seems to work okay. I'll try to finish that up hopefully today and post the results.

However, I also bought a Primeweld TIG 225X welder this morning and if the Alumiweld doesn't get it done, I will now have a very good TIG welder to use...Yeaaaaaa If I only knew how to TIG weld now... MIG is easy, but I never tried TIG yet.

If anyone else has this TIG welder, post up how you like it. I've read and read, and read some more until I am tired of reading specs. for weeks now. And this TIG welder seems to be the top choice for a TIG system under $1000 dollars. So unless I get into some type production work, and that is never going to happen, I think this welder will do my bidding for hobby shop usage.

If the weather would break and get back to warmer temps without rain, I will start on the gas tank again. I need to prime and wet sand now...

Until next update, you all make it a great day. Remember, this is the only Saturday February 1, 2020 you will ever see ever again. Make it the best!

 

[kcassells]

That's funny... so most times you read read read and just hit the buy button out of exhaustion and variables.
Good for you! Looking forward to your new learning curve.

 

[oldrem]

I see that one has DC capability. The only successful welding I've ever done was DC.

 

[gm280]

I see that one has DC capability. The only successful welding I've ever done was DC.

Yeah, it has both AC and DC capabilities. Seem the AC is used for aluminum welding the most. And you can adjust the "balance" in AC mode. In other words you can set it for more positive then negative to help clean the aluminum to get better welding conditions for better welds. But I like the fact that you can adjust everything for either Aluminum, Steel and even Stainless Steel welding. AND it is also Stick capable as well. So with my MIG setup that I already have, (Hobart 140) and this TIG and Stick Primeweld TIG 225X system,I think I have everything covered. .And it can pulse DC and high frequency starts, ramp up current, ramp down currents, start gas flow prior and end adjustments and most everything one would ever need. Especially for hobby shop usage. Now if I only knew how to use it...

Well the weather did get nice now. I went through my PPG paints to see what I had available. I have enough primer sealer to do the gas tank. But I did have three cans of hardeners and primer coat that was solid as a rock. One was never even opened before. So shelf life go to them before I could. But I can get more if needed. I had to mow (grind up the leafs) today and clean up the branches from a tree that got blown over. Man Am I getting old. What use to be no big deal (10-20 years ago), had me puffing like a freight train. And I stopped and didn't finish either. But not much more to do with that.

Post again soon with I hope a gas tank painted pictures...

 

[gm280]

A little more progress.

I took one 6 gallon boat gas tank and used paint stripper on it. Then put it into the media blaster cabinet and after a loonnngggg time blasting, I got it to bare metal. There wasn't a lot of rust. If fact there was so very little, and the inside looks new. Also no dents either...YEAH! But removing all the paint residue left from the paint stripper I blasting the entire tank so the surface was all the same, was a lot of blasting. Glad I installed a foot controlled blaster valve setup. That allows me to use either hand and change hand position without getting hand-cramps. I am about due to change the blasting media. I am using Black Diamond media from Tractor Supply. Very cheap (~$9 dollars a 40 or 50 lb bag) and does a way better job then mere sand. I think it is left over coal burning type byproduct, but it really cuts paint and rust like magic.

After finish blasting and then a really good Acetone wipe down, I gave it a couple coats of wet sand-able primer. I will start the wet sanding tomorrow. Then it is a good two or three base coats of paint. Then the attempt at the graphics and then clear coat(s)... I attached some picture for those who have never seen a bare metal 6 gallon Johnson portable fuel tank. Yeah, I know not much to see, but without pictures it didn't happen...

I do have one question for anyone that knows any history of these old type gas tanks. On the very top of the tank, directly under the handle, there is a large letter F stamped into the metal. Does anyone know why or what it stands for? :noidea: