1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[archbuilder]

I second that.

 

[kcassells]

I turd the motion. Please do. And yup there so many missing parts to a rehab. Specially the boat, year, mfg otr even how it was posted by others.
I cannot find any start to finish wheelhouse rehabs. All bits and pcs.

 

[gm280]

Well then I will do that in short time.

Right not I am posting the pictures of the cast Aluminum parts for the front, rear port and starboard side of the boat. Not much to see but I said I would post them. I am not some how advertising anything about Tom Boy Boats, but since I have to use them to finish off the rub rail installation, I had to use them. The lettering on the front one seems to be drying but the two transom parts are still sticky. But not as bad as they were. So I'll give them a few more days. Lesson learned here, don't mix types of paint regardless how small and seemingly insignificant
the amounts.

And one other question before I get back to work. How do you all sign on and get to your project threads? I presently sign on, and do a search on the forums for "Tom Boy Boats". Then I see my thread and click on it and then go to post. Then I have to go to the latest page number. Seem there has to be a simpler way. IDK

Anyway here are those pictures. Sorry it is not something interesting but it is all I have presently. :facepalm:

Oh one last thing, I didn't paint or clear coat the hook loop sections. I figured if I did, when I hook anything to them, they would chip and look bad. SO I taped off those areas as the pictures show.

Have a great day...

 

[oldrem]

Looking darned good to me!

 

[gm280]

Well I haven't posted anything in the last few days. But I have plenty to do. The cast aluminum plates finally cured and are not sticky anymore.

However, my wife just underwent surgery to implant a post (stud or whatever they call it) for a tooth. And since she didn't have any bone in the area for that post/stud to install into, they had to graft such a bone type structure as well. And now she looks like a chipmunk with her face swollen. And, of course, I call her a chipmunk now. And the work on the boat is going a little slower because of that. But since she is recovering remarkably well, I can work in some boat doings as well. At least that is my plan presently.

I will proceed to install the rub rails and insert next. Pictures will be posted, because if no pictures, it never happened...

I am also collecting all the sequenced picture of building a live well and will open a new thread for that. I do have lots of pictures and even some drawings of it to show.

I also am going to post some different live well cushion designs for everybody's opinions.

So until I post again, have a great day...

 

[sphelps]

First on the list ...Take care of the Admiral !
The rest ,just get to it when ya can ...

 

[gm280]

First on the list ...Take care of the Admiral !
The rest ,just get to it when ya can ...

Oh, she absolutely comes first! I wouldn't think about letting her fend for herself and do something else. But she is presently in no pain now and while the swelling is still there, she has gone through it very well. Lots of post meds to take, but doing extremely well. All of this because she had a tooth that never came in place. So they tried everything possible to get that tooth to move down in place. It didn't work. So they had to remove that tooth and now she had to go for a implant stud to implant a crown type tooth. But now she will have a full mouth of straight teeth after all this. She wore braces for 10 years prier to all this. This the final stage...

 

[gm280]

Okay I did some work on the boat today, after we went and voted this morning. :usa2:

And I think I will regret it in the morning. Why you may ask, because I installed the rub rails. And every 4" or 5" it took a large headed pop rivet. And since there were 3/16" diameter size, a lot of squeezing went on. Hand cramps could set in... :facepalm: :cold:

If you look really hard, you can see those large heads on the rivets. Those will be covered over with carpet later. :whoo:

I also installed the front "Tom Boy" cast piece and some other items as well. I also installed the two "U" bolt hooks on the transom. So all in all a lot done even though it doesn't look like much. I did coat all those bolts with 100% clear silicone and tighten them very nicely. I don't see any water issues, but time will tell. :decision:

I still have the front "U" hook to install, but I stopped there today. A good place to start tomorrow. I still have to wipe off the rub rail insert and install it, but it doesn't look too hard to do. A little heat gun and some patience and finesse and I think it will fit well. Then I have to install the two back "Tom Boy" cast parts and the transom top rail. But I have to make a new top rail and am playing with some ideas to make that. If it turns out well, I will post that idea. If not, I'll have to get some thing to fit. ray2:

Wishing you all a nice day...

 

[oldrem]

And I think I will regret it in the morning. Why you may ask, because I installed the rub rails. And every 4" or 5" it took a large headed pop rivet. And since there were 3/16" diameter size, a lot of squeezing went on. Hand cramps could set in... :facepalm: :cold:

That's why I let Watermann convince me to get the air riveter. Arthritis cramps my hands up bad enough without putting in hundreds of rivets.

 

[gm280]

That's why I let Watermann convince me to get the air riveter. Arthritis cramps my hands up bad enough without putting in hundreds of rivets.

That is funny, not actually ha ha, but odd funny. I actually do have an air riveter, but since it is so old, I decided to just squeezed them in by a hand pop rivet tool. I too have the arther stuff and I pushed through it anyway. I thought get this done and it will be behind you. Worked for me at the time. We will see in the morning how the hands feel. But it now allows me to do other boat things since that part is finished. :happy: :joyous:

I will say one thing though, those rub rails installed stiffen up the sides really well. A solid setup for sure...

 

[sphelps]

Everything is coming together looking great !

 

[archbuilder]

Looking good. Miss carpal tunnel let me know it wasn't happy with all of Fuggly's rivets......next time I will be buying an air rivet gun!

 

[gm280]

Looking good. Miss carpal tunnel let me know it wasn't happy with all of Fuggly's rivets......next time I will be buying an air rivet gun!

Well strangely enough my hands didn't feel anything painful the following morning. However, my elbows did. But it was manageable and I continued on.

I did install the front hook bolt assembly. I believe you could lift the boat up just using that hook now. I also finished a mock-up (breadboard) of the low voltage circuit to alert about the battery conditions. I think I can also use that same circuit, with some minor modifications for the low fuel indicator as well. So on to the transom issues to install the rear Tom Boy cast parts.

And those corner parts are interesting on how they are made and have to be installed. Not one section of them are square. So I have to modify things to make them fit again and look right. The rear of the boat has the sides flared out to connect to those corner parts. So modify until they fit. Not a great design, but then they didn't ask me when initially designed those boats either. Go figure.

So until next time,you all have a fun day.

 

[gm280]

Here is a little update info for anybody that is using a typical resistive fuel sender setup for your fuel tank to fuel gauge. Roughly 140 ~ 150 ohms is about a quarter of a tank fuel level. And that is independent of the size of the tank with either a swing arm or reed sender unit. I wanted to know so I can finish up the low fuel indicator light circuit. So hope that helps others.

 

[gm280]

Here is a little update info for anybody that is using a typical resistive fuel sender setup for your fuel tank to fuel gauge. Roughly 140 ~ 150 ohms is about a quarter of a tank fuel level. And that is independent of the size of the tank with either a swing arm or reed sender unit. I wanted to know so I can finish up the low fuel indicator light circuit. So hope that helps others.

I guess I need to explain this some what.

Yesterday I made a bench top setup (mock up) of the entire fuel sensor system. I used a power supply with the Reed Fuel sensor and the Faria fuel gauge. I set it up so I could verify what a low fuel level would be both on the actual fuel gauge and the sensor. And I did that to see what the resistance would be, but also the voltage drop, so I could finish making the circuit to indicate when the fuel level got low and turns on a LED. And my results were what I posted earlier. So while that allows me to use those value to finish the design, I guess your set up could show slightly different values. But they should be very close since the Faria gauge should display the same for all quarter tank levels, or something very close.

I will say this, the reed sensor isn't a smooth result. It has about six or so reed switches that come on or off as the magnetic float slides up and down the tube. And that is in steps rather then a smooth resistance flow. So the Faria gauge jumps in steps as well. So when it got close to the quarter tank mark on the gauge, I measured both the resistance of the reed sensor and the voltage at the gauge to give me those values. So while the sensor jumps for my setup, if you have a lot deeper tank, you will get better resolutions for your reed sensor being there will be more steps. And if you use a float swing arm type fuel sensor, it will move smoothly on the gauge, but also bounce around because of fuel sloshing around in the tank.

Hope that makes a lot more sense. :noidea:

 

[gm280]

Today I worked on more of the electronics. So pictures are not posted since circuits really are not interesting to the majority, I'm sure. I have everything worked out with one circuit remaining to finish yet. Then I can install them and wire everything. That is going to take a while with all the things I added, like a crazy person. The things I wanted are seriously not usually installed in such a rudimental type boat. But I like to have them for niceties. My fault, I agree, but too late now.

If, for change, anybody would like a copy of the low fuel warming light schematic or the low battery as well, let me know. They are really simple circuits and seem to work pretty good.

Wishing you all a wonderful day...

 

[kcassells]

Well gots to say...........HUH? You're light years ahead of my okie butt. Wish I knew more.
Chekov..set co-ordinates for ...........

 

[sphelps]

Most of my wiring jobs end up looking like a birds nest ... :facepalm:

 

[gm280]

kcassells; Well gots to say...........HUH? You're light years ahead of my okie butt. Wish I knew more. Chekov..set co-ordinates for ...........
Yea, It can seem that way until you see what it actually is. Anything you are not familiar with seems that way. But what I am talking about is a very tiny little circuit that lights up a Red LED when the fuel level drops to a quarter of a tank or your battery drops to about 12.2 volts. The same as your car does. And that tiny little circuit is so small that it measures a mere 3/4" square in size for each low level option. That's it...

@sphelps: Most of my wiring jobs end up looking like a birds nest ... :facepalm:

Yea, it really can get that way in a hurry. What I try to do is point to point wiring as I install each wire, That way I can bundle them accordingly to where they go and how. Then I group bundles up to make them seem like a controlled birds nest. Seem to work for me.

Since I used the same paired wire types for everything (red and black in a cable) I will be adding wire labels to sort them out. That way you can easily look at each wire and even without any schematic diagram, you know exactly what it is and where it goes. And while that does take a little extra time, it is well worth the effort down the road if you ever have to repair or troubleshoot anything. And all the wiring slides in PVC pipes/tubing for long runs so removing or installing a new wire, for whatever reason, is a snap.

Again a lot more then a boat of this caliber would ever see or need. But I had huge dreams about it when I initially starter this project. I really wanted more of a Bass Type Boat, but settled on this so I could get fishing quicker. So much for that quicker idea now. More about that when it is finished. :facepalm:

Weather turned from hot to cold in the matter of days around here. Highs in the lower 50's is the typical forecast now. And we missed the comfy 70's and went straight to cold and freezing mornings now. So the shop will get a little heat applied in the early morning I guess.

Wishing everyone a great day...

 

[kcassells]

GM it all makes sense. Just need to see it in color. Your dc skills are awesome. I'll reach out as soon as I get to that point.
All is very appreciated.
Kevin