1975 StarCraft Mariner build "The Unicorn"

[classiccat]

found the first issue, a broken splice from one of the power cables from the ignition (probably bad work by myself).

Now that that’s fixed, looks like the solenoid is the culprit, it clicks but it’s only putting out 6.5 volts to the starter.

Have you cleaned (sanded) the terminals (battery to solenoid stud, solenoid to starter)? Also, what gauge cable are you running for those connections and how long are the runs (hopefully the cranking battery is under the splashwell and not the center console)? How old is the cranking battery and how many CCA's is it rated for?

 

[The John]

Have you cleaned (sanded) the terminals (battery to solenoid stud, solenoid to starter)? Also, what gauge cable are you running for those connections and how long are the runs (hopefully the cranking battery is under the splashwell and not the center console)? How old is the cranking battery and how many CCA's is it rated for?

Battery is a new, group 27, interstate marine starting battery from Costco (would have to look at the CCA's as I don't remember what they are), was at 12.87 volts when the coil issue was found.
Battery is under splashwell and is 4ga copper wire that is about 4.5 feet long (from my memory, the cables enter the splashwell with the steering line on the right side and are barely long enough). Crips on the lugs are in great shape along with the cable so no worries there.
I tested the voltage drop on the cables (none found, measured lug to lug) but have not checked the battery for voltage drop due to the issue with the solenoid (due to arrive on Thursday). After that gets here I plan on checking the grounds but they "look" good with no corrosion or any suspect traits.

I used a fluke 179 meter for testing.

 

[classiccat]

Battery is a new, group 27, interstate marine starting battery from Costco (would have to look at the CCA's as I don't remember what they are), was at 12.87 volts when the coil issue was found.
Battery is under splashwell and is 4ga copper wire that is about 4.5 feet long (from my memory, the cables enter the splashwell with the steering line on the right side and are barely long enough). Crips on the lugs are in great shape along with the cable so no worries there.
I tested the voltage drop on the cables (none found, measured lug to lug) but have not checked the battery for voltage drop due to the issue with the solenoid (due to arrive on Thursday). After that gets here I plan on checking the grounds but they "look" good with no corrosion or any suspect traits.

I used a fluke 179 meter for testing.

ah that's good; splashwell is a proper spot for the juice box...4awg is a tad on the light side; you probably have on the order of +10' length covering half of the beam plus making all of the bends before it connects to the solenoid.

In case you weren't aware, you have to check the voltage drop when she's cranking (current flowing); depending on model, some O/B starters can pull in excess of 135A.


I bet she'll be firing off when you swap-in that new solenoid.

 

[The John]

ah that's good; splashwell is a proper spot for the juice box...4awg is a tad on the light side; you probably have on the order of +10' length covering half of the beam plus making all of the bends before it connects to the solenoid.

In case you weren't aware, you have to check the voltage drop when she's cranking (current flowing); depending on model, some O/B starters can pull in excess of 135A.
View attachment 349927

I bet she'll be firing off when you swap-in that new solenoid.

Regarding voltage drop, I haven't been able to accurately test with the starter working since its not getting full voltage. There is no drop when measured while cranking (12.87V) but the starter is only getting 6.5+/- volts which I don't think is enough to move it.

The wiring from the OB to the battery is the factory wiring but that doesn't mean its correct either. =-) I was a little worried at first that there may be a break but none was found on the ground or positive wire.

Appreciate the advice!

 

[The John]

From one problem to another... Solenoid was indeed bad, its been replaced and I am now getting 12V to starter.

However, Starter is not functional. Ordered a new one, and I am expecting it today (as promised) or tomorrow (more likely).

 

[SHSU]

Bummer, but that is the life of us boaters. Fix one thing, something else breaks....

SHSU

 

[The John]

Good news, installed the starter and it turns the motor over. Now to run it down to the river to see if it actually fires up and runs. Then do a link and sync.

 

[The John]

Motor ran, not really well but not terrible. Let it sit in the water for about a half hour and the bilge was dry.

 

[The John]

Hey everyone,
Its still duck hunting season for me, but I just got the boat back from the outboard motor shop. They tuned and adjusted the throttle cable on my main and performed service on my kicker.

I still have things to finish, like the transom cover and etc, I should be getting started on that in the coming month after duck season ends.

 

[The John]

Finishing up two projects;
Flip flop helm seat is just about done, I have a cushion for it, just need to pickup a 2x4 for the backrest.

Transom area cover is in progress but not finished.

Since this thread is useless without pictures see the attached. Will post pics of the finished project when they are complete and installed.

 

[SHSU]

Just curious, what is the plug on the right of the transom cover for?

SHSU

 

[The John]

Finishing up two projects;
Flip flop helm seat is just about done, I have a cushion for it, just need to pickup a 2x4 for the backrest.

Transom area cover is in progress but not finished.

Since this thread is useless without pictures see the attached. Will post pics of the finished project when they are complete and installed. View attachment 355384

Just curious, what is the plug on the right of the transom cover for?

SHSU

Wash down pump. Super handy after boating a salmon and getting the scales/slime off the deck.

 

[The John]

Somehow i duplicated a post.... deleted.

 

[The John]

Put in the transom cap/cover and finished my flip flop seat.
Still have things to do but getting close.

 

[SHSU]

Like the flip flop seat. How you securing it to the deck?

SHSU

 

[The John]

Like the flip flop seat. How you securing it to the deck?

SHSU

Not exactly sure yet, so far it has sat there without movement during transport but I was thinking of lining the bottom with some kind of felt to keep it in place

 

[SHSU]

Not exactly sure yet, so far it has sat there without movement during transport but I was thinking of lining the bottom with some kind of felt to keep it in place

What about angle iron screwed into the deck? I would be nervous about it shifting when wet and hitting a big wave. Might just be me.

SHSU

 

[The John]

What about angle iron screwed into the deck? I would be nervous about it shifting when wet and hitting a big wave. Might just be me.

SHSU

you are not alone, after a little bit of testing it will move and so I am going to use a few well nuts to secure the seat to the deck. I am using well nuts as they can be removed easily if the seat needs to be removed.

I just got my boat back after a day at the outboard mechanic spa, its now linked and synced. Actual water test away from the dock to start shortly.

 

[The John]

Got her out on the water this past long weekend and caught some trout. Now onto the best salmon; Spring Chinook.

I am still not complete but its in a state that's fishable (but I am very close to completion).

 

[SHSU]

Pictures of first blood!!!!

SHSU