1975 StarCraft Mariner build "The Unicorn"

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The John

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update on progress, Its been a few weeks as we had a bad ice storm that required us to evacuate from our home for a period of time and when we returned to start cutting up branches and cleaning up.

Removed the motor controls from the outboard to remove the center console. Ran into a problem getting the cables out of the run so i will have to leave the center console in there for now and work my way to it in order to remove it as I am not sure what its catching on inside. Hope to get more done this weekend.
 

SHSU

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Hope all is well and no major damage.

We were blessed here in Houston TX, but I know a lot of people were dealing with burst pipes and such. We don't know how to handle cold down here...

SHSU
 

The John

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Hope all is well and no major damage.

We were blessed here in Houston TX, but I know a lot of people were dealing with burst pipes and such. We don't know how to handle cold down here...

SHSU
luckily we averted major damage but were without power for 8 days. I did loose my backup camera and TV antenna on my trailer, but considering it looked like this, i am happy it wasnt worse.
 

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The John

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Taking the floor and center console out, and found this in the bilge. 😮
 

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The John

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Busy day today,
removed the sole and the center console from the boat. aside from the one surprise I am happy with the condition of the hull.

My next steps are:
1. Remove the main motor and remove the spashwell to get access to the transom for replacement. Remove the transom.
2. Figure out the plan for removing the boat from the trailer to add new bunks/keel rollers and get the rest of the trailer painted and wired for lights.
3. Create plan for wire routing and buy electrical materials for electrical system.
4. Ready new sole and transom materials for installation.
5. I am thinking about polishing the center console, what does everyone think? it is home made and made out of aluminum. I will need a new wind screen to add to it which I will source locally.



Question on the third photo, are these metal plates normal? I haven't made a final decision on the sole, either painting it or doing vinyl. I imagine I will keep them, but it all depends on the final fit and finish. I will be using 3/4 ACX as the sole so it will be thicker.
 

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SHSU

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Taking the floor and center console out, and found this in the bilge. 😮
Just shows you it has a history has a good fishing boat!!! lol

Good think you found it.

5. I am thinking about polishing the center console, what does everyone think? it is home made and made out of aluminum. I will need a new wind screen to add to it which I will source locally.
I have never been one for polishing aluminum, but know others have. It would look good, but it might get bright in the sun too. My 2 cents is just to paint it, but that is just me.

SHSU
 

The John

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Just shows you it has a history has a good fishing boat!!! lol

Good think you found it.


I have never been one for polishing aluminum, but know others have. It would look good, but it might get bright in the sun too. My 2 cents is just to paint it, but that is just me.

SHSU
Agreed, I’ll either polish it or leave it bare aluminum.
 

Watermann

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Nice, an early 70's model and now comes the hull clean up and repair phase that takes the longest most times.

I mention this to most of the early pre hull brace SC owners that they should consider adding them to their boats to keep them from suffering from future side splitting issues at the spray rail chine. That and rib end cracks are the 2 leading failure points on the older boats.

Your hull is a Mariner without side panels making it even more susceptible to the side splitting issue.

d6a6c814-1a30-4498-bb0f-57fa01f076c6-jpeg.334922



Here is my Chief that I added the braces to.
y4mQmoREx4phr4yKnOVyCP1v78cMbOR6UNfVkD7ku_d3rEPKUVLN-bMAscK8HNtGO-oYHpPXBcqICAoW0lm9GP9DoHKzyRMHVe0vqI8Up-Ku8h-qxfR5YXB9CNiIJguJZ_wPjZHZ8LAEXg8VxeUKM4lv1uAa3D6G6_b4pp-8gznfI_j27Wb-4N-VMch-OLjvSJY


Without this can and does happen.
side split.jpg
 

The John

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Nice, an early 70's model and now comes the hull clean up and repair phase that takes the longest most times.

I mention this to most of the early pre hull brace SC owners that they should consider adding them to their boats to keep them from suffering from future side splitting issues at the spray rail chine. That and rib end cracks are the 2 leading failure points on the older boats.

Your hull is a Mariner without side panels making it even more susceptible to the side splitting issue.

d6a6c814-1a30-4498-bb0f-57fa01f076c6-jpeg.334922



Here is my Chief that I added the braces to.
y4mQmoREx4phr4yKnOVyCP1v78cMbOR6UNfVkD7ku_d3rEPKUVLN-bMAscK8HNtGO-oYHpPXBcqICAoW0lm9GP9DoHKzyRMHVe0vqI8Up-Ku8h-qxfR5YXB9CNiIJguJZ_wPjZHZ8LAEXg8VxeUKM4lv1uAa3D6G6_b4pp-8gznfI_j27Wb-4N-VMch-OLjvSJY


Without this can and does happen.
View attachment 335050
Good morning,
yes, I am looking forward to getting her all cleaned up. I was thinking it was going to be much dirtier (from my previous experience doing rebuilds like this) but it was pretty clean after being out in the open for 13 years.

I haven't figured out a plan around the implementation around it but I was planning on adding the side pieces along with adding some support to the center rails to add some rigidity. Can you tell me what thickness you used for your braces?
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Good morning,
yes, I am looking forward to getting her all cleaned up. I was thinking it was going to be much dirtier (from my previous experience doing rebuilds like this) but it was pretty clean after being out in the open for 13 years.

I haven't figured out a plan around the implementation around it but I was planning on adding the side pieces along with adding some support to the center rails to add some rigidity. Can you tell me what thickness you used for your braces?
Yeah I used .080 5051, good ole surplus road signs :D
 

Watermann

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you mean "surplus" road signs right? ;-)
Yeah I worked for the county here and the road dept moved leaving piles of old signs. They said throw them away we don't want them so I helped myself to what I needed or wanted.

Oh and a typo, the AL is 5052, same as used in our boat hulls.
 

SHSU

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Yeah I worked for the county here and the road dept moved leaving piles of old signs. They said throw them away we don't want them so I helped myself to what I needed or wanted.

Oh and a typo, the AL is 5052, same as used in our boat hulls.

Endless supply of aluminum. Depending on the size and amount, you could weld together a descent size hull.

SHSU
 

The John

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Pulled the splash well and the outboard this weekend. Started working on getting the transom out, it is not in great shape, made a cardboard cutout just in case. There is some sections of the transom that will need to be repaired, see the below picture. 8688B6E4-C911-4FE0-9F92-2F78535A2E87.jpeg
 

SHSU

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Pulled the splash well and the outboard this weekend. Started working on getting the transom out, it is not in great shape, made a cardboard cutout just in case. There is some sections of the transom that will need to be repaired, see the below picture.
Yep, the normal corrosion for the tinnies. Take a wire wheel to it and clean off the outer junk to see extent of damage.

SHSU
 

The John

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still working on getting the transom out, I may resort to cutting it up depending on how things progress as it currently doesn't want to budge (transom drains, stern eyes, bolts and everything have been removed).

This weekend I am going to pull the boat off the trailer regardless if the transom is out or not. My plan is to replace the keel rollers, and add new bunks to the trailer after painting and wiring it up. Its supposed to be nice this weekend and I want to take full advantage.
 

Moserkr

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I had to screw in a few eye hooks to the top of my transom, then got on a chair for leverage to pull it out. Wouldnt budge otherwise due to a bunch of old 5200, corrosion, and rotten wood holding it down.
 

MNhunter1

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I fished some ratchet straps through the splashwell drain holes (need to fish it in between the transom skin) and back up to the cross member of the kids swing set. Tighten the straps down until it begins to lift the hull off the trailer and you can raise/lower the height of the stern by cranking up/down on the trailer jack. Had to climb in and use my body weight back by the transom to break it loose, but once it's loose, you're good to go.
 

The John

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I was using an engine hoist and some lifting eyebolts, I was actually lifting the boat off the trailer.

I am going to try to use a long flat blade to see if I can separate the wood from the aluminum. well see if that works.
 

Moserkr

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@The John Good idea with the flat blade. I forgot I used a machete first to cut the crud along the side before it came out. Keep trying, she will give eventually. Lifting the boat just means she needs another strategy first lol.
 
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