1974 Starcraft SS16 Restortation

[CraigBarnard]

Personally I found using the aluminum rods just as easy to use (with practice) as jb weld.
Long term results are awesome. Can hardly tell the holes where ever there..Been several years now.
Should have pics of it in use here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/giarc_dranrab/albums/72157625350990860

Looks like you have to cut and paste

 

[FIGMO]

Hey Craig,

Thank you for the input. I had a look at some of the holes you filled with the aluminum weld. Seems to work pretty good. Given WM's earlier comments I took my splash well (SW) into a custom fabrication shop to see what they could do to salvage it, or get an estimate to fabricate a new one. Still waiting. My SW is in pretty rough shape, there was a fair amount of damage to it from the rotted transom. If things go well with the fabrication shop, then I will likely take my transom knee to them as well. I know SHSU took his brace to a welder and had new "wings" attached to it. It looked really good.

As for the aluminum weld, I think I will purchase a started kit of the Alloy 5 and give it a try on some obscure parts, like the aluminum framing for the live well. Considering WM's concerns about the product, I intend to do some experimenting to see if it is as good as they claim in their advertising. At the very least I will be able to provide some additional feedback on the product.

 

[Candutch]

Mr. Watermann,

Thank you for resizing that image for me. Yes indeed on following other build logs. I have already set up a couple of links to other builds, sadly some of those used photo bucket. Most of the links I found were from random searches, and no longer active. The best one I have found to date was Candutch, which of course he recently finished. A beautiful build. If you have links to more active logs I would greatly appreciate the links.

I will be posting my background information to get this started very shortly.

Cheers

FIGMO

I don't know how I have missed this one for the last 5 months. Thanks for the compliment FIGMO but that finished project is thanks to all the knowledge from this forum. I will be following your project with interest.

One question, Civy or military jumper? Feel free to PM if you prefer.

 

[FIGMO]

Military jumper, that photo was from when I was with the military parachute team, the SkyHawks.

 

[FIGMO]

Hey Craig,

Given WM's earlier comments I took my splash well (SW) into a custom fabrication shop to see what they could do to salvage it, or get an estimate to fabricate a new one. Still waiting. My SW is in pretty rough shape, there was a fair amount of damage to it from the rotted transom.

The custom fabrication shop quoted me 200.00 to 250.00 to repair my SW. To fabricate a new one would be around 800.00. So I have opted to go with the repair. I have included some pictures on the SW so you can see just how bad it is. My plan is to get it repaired while I am waiting for the weather to warm up. Same for the transom knee. Hopefully by the time warmer weather arrives, I will have what I need to get straight back to work on the boat.

Question, does anyone know what type of aluminum the SW is made from?

 

[Candutch]

Military jumper, that photo was from when I was with the military parachute team, the SkyHawks.

Thought so, which Regiment did you start out in. I was a Patricia from 89-00, 3rd and 2nd. Had lots of good friends in 2 CDO.

 

[FIGMO]

Thought so, which Regiment did you start out in. I was a Patricia from 89-00, 3rd and 2nd. Had lots of good friends in 2 CDO.

Lol, small world. RCR with 2nd and 3rd Bn, plus the Airborne Regiment (3 CDO). My son in law is a Patricia, but I don't hold it against him.

 

[Watermann]

The AL alloy most commonly used then was 5052 for strength and corrosion resistance. I guess it's still used as is 6061 now for it's weldability.

 

[FIGMO]

The AL alloy most commonly used then was 5052 for strength and corrosion resistance. I guess it's still used as is 6061 now for it's weldability.

Hey WM,

So for the purposes of welding the guys at the shop should treat it as 6061?

 

[Watermann]

Hey I wish I knew but I know nothing about welding AL but they should at the shop.

I've looked at those pics a couple times and my mind comes up with a fix for each issue. I would repair it myself without welding. Once that sucker gets welded on it'll be all wonky out of shape and it's been fatgued enough already to get all cracked up.

 

[FIGMO]

Hey I wish I knew but I know nothing about welding AL but they should at the shop.

I've looked at those pics a couple times and my mind comes up with a fix for each issue. I would repair it myself without welding. Once that sucker gets welded on it'll be all wonky out of shape and it's been fatgued enough already to get all cracked up.

I am all ears, and open to suggestions.

 

[Watermann]

For the the pic below, I would cut off the cracked lip where all the screws go on the bottom of the SW and solid rivet on a new piece of 1" x 1/16" angle bedded in 5200.

 

[Watermann]

The corner cracks stop drill cracks with a small bit. You'd have to use backer plates again with solids and 5200 rather than the blinds and whatever they put on there. All of the patch plates would be on the underside and all that would show would be solid rivet heads. Seal all the gaps with 5200 and paint, it would blend is and look just fine.

don't think there would be a whole lot of stress on the SW with new transom wood and rebuilt boat. The boat being used with rotten decking, side panels and transom is what does that damage.

 

[FIGMO]

Hey WM,

Looks like sound advice. I have some scrap aluminum in garage I can practice solid riveting on. I will be doing solid riveting for both the Z brace and the transom knee, so doing a little more will not matter.

 

[Watermann]

The price they wanted for doing the repairs just seems like the "don't wanna do it" price, at least to me anyway.

 

[FIGMO]

The corner cracks stop drill cracks with a small bit. You'd have to use backer plates again with solids and 5200 rather than the blinds and whatever they put on there. All of the patch plates would be on the underside and all that would show would be solid rivet heads. Seal all the gaps with 5200 and paint, it would blend is and look just fine.

Mr. WM,

I noticed that you never mentioned anything about using JB weld on those cracks. I am assuming then that the 5200 will fill those cracks adequately?

 

[FIGMO]

Another question for the Starmada Community. I have been searching for a good price on marine grade electrical wire, the tin lined stuff. That appears to be a difficult task in Canada. I did find "certified" wire for automotive use that claims it can also be used in marine applications. Considering that my boat will only used on fresh water lakes, do you think the certified automotive wire would be okay for my restoration?

 

[knezzer]

I believe that you can get away with the "certified" automotive wire and be fine. Kept dry and neatly fastened it would probably be good to go for a long time. I'm going to use the same for my boat. I plan on tinning my wires together and using the heat shrink with the goo inside, and good crimps for the terminal strip. On my fishing boat I have all my LEDs wired with Ft6 plenum rated 18/2 wire that is definitely not marine rated and its held up for 3 years just fine. You're only going to see fresh water so its not that bad. But ultimately the best would be to use the proper wire for the application.
I'm not an expert on this type of wiring so if it's bad advice I'm offering let us know

 

[Watermann]

On 3 boats I've worked on I've not seen any so called "marine wire" from the factory, not even in the wiring harness of my Mercruiser.

That being said I have not bought or used any of this marine wire at all. The "marine environment" your boat spends the most time in is your driveway. The weak link in any wiring are the connections not the middle of wire run going bad because it's not marine wire. Use good connectors like Anchor brand with epoxy lined shrink tube and a GOOD crimping tool then you'll be just fine. Anywhere the wire can get abrasion run them inside the plastic conduit/sheathing.

 

[FIGMO]

Good day Gents,

Sounds good, exactly what I wanted to hear, as that marine wire is freaking expensive. Good points on the connections and protective conduit. I want to start working out how much wire I am going to need by gauge, depending on the item I am powering.

How are things in SK knezzer? Looking forward to seeing some work from your side of the boarder.