1974 starcraft 16 ft super sport

Watermann

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Set the meter to DC and it should read 12.6v resting when fully charged if a cell is bad then it will be below 12v, When running the meter will read above 13v if charging.

Fuel will run out of the carb throats when the motor is tilted. Before I was referring to the idle air adjustment screws on the front of the carbs, if you have the air box off you can see them.
 

anderso8623

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i did not even think of the idle air screw! I garuntee I tightened it all the way after rebuilding them...

If I'm looking straight at the carbs with the box completely off where would the be located? Is it the screw at the top that hides the jet or is it in a different location?
 

Watermann

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They should be the inset screw with a casting around it on the face of the carb by the throat. Just don't loosen the one on the float bowls :lol:
 

dozerII

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The idle mixture screws should be on the starboard side of the carbs as in this picture item # 15

 

anderso8623

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I appreciate all the help but both descriptions seem to be wrong. Waterman-the screw you describe simple stops fuel from leaking out of the carb and covers a jet.

Dorzel-the same thing. It is a simple short screw that seals a jet.

I am lost for where to find the adjustment screw. I will post pictures shortly
 

anderso8623

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Dorzel-this is the screw in your picture



And this is it removed. There is no adjustment screw, just a fixed jet. All three jets are as clean as a whistle.
 

Watermann

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Yeah those are different than my Johnny's carbs, the air box has a pop out over the top of the idle air screws and they're in the front, sorry I shouldn't have assumed yours would be the same.
 

anderso8623

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Well, talked to the local Evinrude dealer and he advised me to tap shut each choke one by one. The carb that revved was the one giving me the problem. He also mentioned that there is no adjustment on my carb. Apparently they made two carbs that year, one with an idle air adjustment screw and one with just the fixed jet and the fixed jet bows not have an air mixture adjustment. He advised me to tear down and re clean. I did and it seems to be better, I can get her down to 800 but I think I'm going to drop the carbs off at the dealer and have them sonic clean them after the trip.
 

anderso8623

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Come hell or high water, she is splashing tomorrow. I made it to Houghton Lake today after a very rough start. Boat was not quite ready, two rotten tires, bench not complete, tail lights...the list went on. My wife lost our lay set of keys for her car so we had it towed to the dealer today. This gave me time to tinker and wrap a few things up. I could only find one new tire at the local Walmarts do we swapped out the one the lost the most air. Finally got on the road at 2pm and made it here around 6pm, not to shabby and all tires in tact. I'll post pictures of the splash as soon as I get her on the water!
 

anderso8623

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Well, another drop in the ocean... Still having lean issues. All hoses have been replaced, compression seems to be fine, next on the list is to swap out the fuel pump. I got her out to the lake but just when I was about to go, she stalled and would not start back up. Got a quick tow from someone coming in and got her back to the dock.

I let her sit and she started again but was at about 1500 rpm then slowly dropped then stalled. Started her back up and she was hard starting again. When she finally started, 1500 rpm then slowly dropped until she stalled.

Brought her back in. I will be checking the compression again to see if something happened between this week and today. My assumption is that I screwed something up with the pump when rebuilding it. If the pump is not the case, she sits until I get back.
 

anderso8623

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OK, I think I got this. Large crack in the fuel pump. Hose from the external connection to the pump is kinked. I did replace with hoses with out the spring inside (I was not aware there was a spring in it). I did replace (against advice) all hose fitting zip ties with hose clamps, lightly tightened yet firm. Found a yard up here with a ton of used parts, they have pumps for $20 instead of the $99 at the local shop. If this solves the mystery, I wil pop for a new one, just don't want to spend $99 on a whim.

I do have an odd question, what is the difference between the yellow/grey wire on the rectifier and the solid yellow? When I compared my rectifiers the old yellow/grey was next to the red wire and on the new, the solid yellow is next to the red wire. In both cases, I am referring to when the wires exit the actual rectifier.
 
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anderso8623

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As much as I am frustrated she did not run properly, I can't help but smile when I see this:



 

Watermann

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Yeah that dock view sure does beat the trailer alright. Keep at it, you'll get her going.
 

theoldwizard1

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As much as I am frustrated she did not run properly, I can't help but smile when I see this:

I haven't been to Houghton Lake to quite a few years, but that looks like the launch off of Old 27, just north of M55 !

Dad had a place on the North Bay for many years and in my youth (shortly after the Ice Age) we rented at a place just up Old 27 from that launch site !
 

anderso8623

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You are correct, just off of old 27 DNR launch. We stay at a place called poplars.

Did a carb cleaner test along the crankcase gasket and she died right out. Got her running and doused the seam with carb cleaner. One side was just fine the other killed the motor. I'm still only in the motor for about $300 so as long as I stay under $1000 she is still worth it. I have some research to do on replacing that seal and find out how much it costs to have the local mechanic do it. I'll get her running. Any tips? Send them my way?
 

Watermann

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The parts will cost next to nothing for that job but the labor will kill you!
 
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