1974 Chieftain 25 "Adventurer" Restoration

IslandExplorer

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
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460
Looking forward to your project, lots of work so do it right and you will have a real collectors item !! Cool boat!
Thanks Airshot, you are right, it is a Lot of work but I just can't ever seem to take on easy, rational projects. šŸ˜ I sure love my retro classics. She's going to be a head turner I'm sure (for better or worse šŸ˜…). People always asked about the Starchief. These old Starcrafts really stand out amongst the more modern rigs!
 

ShoestringMariner

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
1,600
Whatā€™s your restoration intent, are you restoring as per or similar to original, or do you have custom plans? Mix of both?

Are you keeping the head and galley etc?

And great hoist ingenuity Iā€™m riveted to this thread
 

IslandExplorer

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
460
Whatā€™s your restoration intent, are you restoring as per or similar to original, or do you have custom plans? Mix of both?

Are you keeping the head and galley etc?

And great hoist ingenuity Iā€™m riveted to this thread
Thanks, I'm loving the crane, should've built one a long time ago. Restoration intent is a mix. I love the original look of the boat but I want to push it a bit and increase its capacity in a few ways. Keeping galley and expanding upon it by putting in a gimbaled propane 2 burner stove with oven that I picked up at marine consignment. The sink will be a larger than original rectangle type (great for empties šŸ˜‰) that a previous owner fitted it with. The head is going to be moved back to the factory starboard side and I am planning on making a cubby like area expansion low so the porta potty can be tucked away a bit (fore). This is because I'm putting in a urinal on opposite side (aft) that connects to a holding tank (former fresh water tank). This will help relieve the porta potty's capacity a bit keeping it fully available and cleaner for the ladies. Rear deck I intend to level out, making it more open with tall railings and a small swing out jib for lobster pots and whatnot. So cabin will be very similar to stock but with modified bathroom, kitchen, and adding a small bar! Hopefully it will all work out how I am envisioning it.
 

IslandExplorer

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Oct 21, 2019
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So far unable to remove this little shifter cable thing. Any tips on this? I modified a wrench that now can fit in that area but it still won't budge. Wrench started to slip under the torque. Not seeing a way to remove it without cutting cable to get a socket on there. Is this cable something that has to be replaced anyway? Trying to avoid breaking anything that's still good.IMG_20230531_191036.jpgIMG_20230531_191043.jpg
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
The V8 sits right on two boxed beams, open only at rear, with nice reinforcement plates that extend down between the ribs. I have discovered that this is not the only structure however and there is a wood piece about 4x4x36 (estimated) secured underneath the aluminum beam, located in place by 2 studs with stainless steel nuts fore and aft. The motor mounts then bolt through the beam and presumably screw down into the 4x4. I am going to test the integrity of this piece of wood once the transom is completely out and I will add more detail. Here are a few pictures of it for now:
Nice, definitely bookmarking that response on the motor mounts.

I'd be inclined to want to at least find an Alpha One Gen 1 outdrive setup. Might make things easier overall.

The Alpha One Gen 1 freshwater transom assembly with trim pumps and rams should be a dime a dozen here in the US and decent supply in Canada.

The outdrives for 1.50 ratio in usable condition might be a different story.
 

IslandExplorer

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Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
460
Nice, definitely bookmarking that response on the motor mounts.

I'd be inclined to want to at least find an Alpha One Gen 1 outdrive setup. Might make things easier overall.

The Alpha One Gen 1 freshwater transom assembly with trim pumps and rams should be a dime a dozen here in the US and decent supply in Canada.

The outdrives for 1.50 ratio in usable condition might be a different story.
I agree, I would prefer to have an Alpha generation as well but I still have so much plywood and paint and whatnot to buy that I need to service and repair everything as cheaply as possible to stay on course to make this happen this season. The outdrive is old but at least it was fresh water only and so far (knock on wood lol) all bolts and things came out easily other than that damn shift cable. If this outdrive is repairable with just rebuild kit like bellows, pump, seals, bearings, etc. then that will likely be my most affordable route. I will keep an eye out for an Alpha and try to grab one to swap in the next season or so if I can. Luckily for me, I prefer a lack of complication typically and it seems the MC1 might be one of the simplest, without trim attitude sensors and whatnot? That suits me just fine. Never had trim indicators before, never felt I needed em. Hopefully, with some TLC, the drive has a few years left in it!
 

ShoestringMariner

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
1,600
Thanks, I'm loving the crane, should've built one a long time ago. Restoration intent is a mix. I love the original look of the boat but I want to push it a bit and increase its capacity in a few ways. Keeping galley and expanding upon it by putting in a gimbaled propane 2 burner stove with oven that I picked up at marine consignment. The sink will be a larger than original rectangle type (great for empties šŸ˜‰) that a previous owner fitted it with. The head is going to be moved back to the factory starboard side and I am planning on making a cubby like area expansion low so the porta potty can be tucked away a bit (fore). This is because I'm putting in a urinal on opposite side (aft) that connects to a holding tank (former fresh water tank). This will help relieve the porta potty's capacity a bit keeping it fully available and cleaner for the ladies. Rear deck I intend to level out, making it more open with tall railings and a small swing out jib for lobster pots and whatnot. So cabin will be very similar to stock but with modified bathroom, kitchen, and adding a small bar! Hopefully it will all work out how I am envisioning it.
Some great sounding mods. Going to put a platform on the back?
 

IslandExplorer

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Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
460
Some great sounding mods. Going to put a platform on the back?
Thanks and I most definitely am. It had a corroded angle iron and wood swim platform supported by steel chain that I need to replace once transom is done. I want to build in a kicker motor mount for my trusty 9.9/15 as I don't believe in leaving shore in the salt without one. Was hoping to find a good deal on a used teak platform to modify to fit but likely have to fab something up myself. I know no one likes trex type stuff šŸ¤« on boats but I have been really thinking about it because I have used it paired with aluminum supports before and it was quite durable and proved to be surprisingly strong. The weight concerns for my abnormally light boat I think are somewhat irrelevant so that is my best idea so far but open to ideas.
 

IslandExplorer

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Oct 21, 2019
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Today's progress:
Extensive pressure washing of transom and hull interior along with removal of non-OG 20 gallon stainless port side tank and hidden rotten wood behind it.
 

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Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
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Since you are open to ideas for a swim platformā€¦. An aluminum platform with aluminum supports. Instead of teak wood or trex, put hydro-turf on the deck part that looks like teak. Fools people all the time on my boat, they think its real wood but its closed cell foam. Lightweight, comfortable, sharp looking, (almost) indestructible and low maintenance. Thats my plan at least for a small swim platform on my little 160ss.
 

IslandExplorer

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Since you are open to ideas for a swim platformā€¦. An aluminum platform with aluminum supports. Instead of teak wood or trex, put hydro-turf on the deck part that looks like teak. Fools people all the time on my boat, they think its real wood but its closed cell foam. Lightweight, comfortable, sharp looking, (almost) indestructible and low maintenance. Thats my plan at least for a small swim platform on my little 160ss.
That's a great idea, would be way lighter than the trex I'm sure! My buddy just laid down some of that stuff nicely in a few sections of his previously plain white fiberglass skiff and I thought it looked awesome. Wonder what would be a good thickness for the alu deck so that it doesn't need more than say 4 full triangle shaped bottom supports... Would likely use alu angle for the gussets and a perimeter wrap so all the edges would be reinforced. 1/8 sheet ya think would be enough? I could rivet it all around which I'm sure would help a lot with overall rigidity.
 

Moserkr

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1/8 would probably be overkill honestly, but would still be light. I used 1/8 on my 160ss for some stuff and wish I had gone smaller. These boats arent even made of AL that thick. 4 triangle bottom supports, maybe some additional cross members under the platform. But with 1/8 for the platform you could skip cross members.

Hydroturf is great though. Doesnt absorb water, gives traction, and is tough as nails. Guys use it in their duck boatsā€¦. Just reacts poorly to gasoline.
 

IslandExplorer

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1/8 would probably be overkill honestly, but would still be light. I used 1/8 on my 160ss for some stuff and wish I had gone smaller. These boats arent even made of AL that thick. 4 triangle bottom supports, maybe some additional cross members under the platform. But with 1/8 for the platform you could skip cross members.

Hydroturf is great though. Doesnt absorb water, gives traction, and is tough as nails. Guys use it in their duck boatsā€¦. Just reacts poorly to gasoline.
Definitely good to know about the gas sensitivity. If that's its only real Achilles heal- then that's perfect. I'll have to scout out the old scrap yard soon for some more tin to make that platform happen. I'm really liking the idea of it being all riveted together just like the rest of the boat... very OCD compliant and the less stainless and wood in water contact the better!
 

ShoestringMariner

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Apr 18, 2015
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A great way to clean oxidized aluminum is to use bristle discs. They donā€™t remove aluminum.
 

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IslandExplorer

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A great way to clean oxidized aluminum is to use bristle discs. They donā€™t remove aluminum.
Thanks, I'll have to try some of those. So far the part that's been toughest to clean is the tar like stuff in bottom of bilge, concentrated only in certain areas. I think it might be oil & styrofoam melted together sludge that slowly congealed and fossilized over the eons of neglect.
 

IslandExplorer

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Oct 21, 2019
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Anyone have pictures of what the factory (or DIY) hull reinforcements look like on these Chieftains??

I know that they added some sort of rib end support on some later hulls and was wondering just how those were attached. This hull appears to have a structural beam each side that connects the gunwales and the hull bottom in addition to its normal riveted seam. This looks as though it is to reinforce the spray chine and rib end connection. So not sure if my hull already has the extra reinforcement or not.
 
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