1974 Chieftain 25 "Adventurer" Restoration

[IslandExplorer]

Anyone know what the hull weighs approximately when totally empty without floors, motor, transom, etc.?

I want to reposition the boat on the trailer because it is seriously ****-eyed at the back and want it resting nice and even on the trailer as she gains all the weight of the new materials. Only needs to move starboard about 6 inches. Considering trying to lift the rear of it with the crane boom and nudge it over by hand... It swung the Mercruiser 888 fully dressed nice and easy last time and estimating that to be a solid 700+ lbs. Hull seems like it is getting real light now as I can rock it a tiny bit just by hand.

 

[TPSK]

View attachment 380835View attachment 380833

Nothing exciting, just more cleaning... ... ... ...
Long way from this before shot at least!

it is very good to remove greasy oils and liquid dirt using sawdust.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Wish I had aweigh to weigh the hull myself. Would be great to know:
1. bare hull weight (aluminum and glass only)
2. weight with floors, interior, and transom- without fuel or engine or I/O
3. and fully loaded weight including Mercruiser 888 and 120 gallons of fuel.

 

[IslandExplorer]

it is very good to remove greasy oils and liquid dirt using sawdust.

Good thinking! I burned all my collected sawdust over the winter getting coal fires started but I will keep that in mind bc that is definitely a better use and will be generating plenty more of it soon. Luckily the greasy oily stuff is just about gone now.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Lifting hull to center on trailer was successful. Once lifted a little, a ratchet strap and a few good shoves was all it needed. One roller bunk set (right rear) has two axles bent out of alignment and a now completely broken off main pivot bracket! Removed whole assembly for welding repair. Poor old girl hasn't been properly supported for the past who knows how many years.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Looking for some advice here. How much flotation do you think is needed to keep this boat floating if it was totally flooded?
The two 60g poly fuel tanks even if completely full would provide together 200+ lbs flotation (120gallons @6lbs/gallon -20lbs plastic weight). So lets assume tanks full/least flotation scenario from them. The rest of the boat obviously would have some small amount of displacement with all the plywood and whatnot, maybe its total weight is 20% lighter submerged? Not sure. I am going to distribute a fair amount of the flotation into the gunnels where there was none to help give it a chance to float upright in the event it was needed. But would like to hear opinions on how many lbs positive buoyancy needs to be added.

 

[IslandExplorer]

I didn't know how much would be needed but decided to take advantage of a deal I found on some used styro from equipment packed on pallets. It is just like the original white styro that was in it. I estimated I'd need at least 3000lbs more buoyancy if I could haul that much in the wagon and calculated the blocks to be 1.5 cubic feet each. 1 cubic ft of water is 62.41 lbs. 32 blocks @1.5 cu ft = 48 cu ft. 48 x 62.41 = 2995.68 so basically 3000lbs. Maybe it was meant to be, because the wagon could fit exactly 32 of those blocks, stacked to the ceiling, 4' wide without an inch of clearance on the sides! Hoping this is close to how much I'll need.

 

[silverbul]

Now you just need to upgrade to the QUEEN FAMILY TRUCKSTER. lol. just kidding, looks like a long road trip.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Any ideas on how much more flotation I'll need to add in addition to the 3000lbs worth below?

 

[IslandExplorer]

More deconstruction and cleaning prep before flotation installation.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Rough test fitting of the new flotation blocks. Each is 1.5 cu ft or about 90lbs buoyancy, have 32 so far.

Positioned 10 of the rear blocks around engine to try to directly counteract the approx 900lb Mercruiser, the rest I think should be higher, just above original deck height but a foot beneath top of the gunnels. So far looks like 20 of the 32 will fit in rear pretty easy, and then 12 in the cabin beneath floor, and going to try to put 4 of the cabin blocks higher (just under v-berth) to increase upright stability. I like the idea I read where the center bilge run is kept mostly clear of flotation vs running the foam close to the bottom there.
The reasoning was 1. keeps foam out of the wettest place to avoid absorption and make bilge cleaning easier and 2. (which seems especially nice) is that when swamped, this area would be full of water and be a low down anti-roll ballast while the flotation is positioned a little higher keeping the boat righted. Although it would sit lower in water before all flotation would completely kick in- the Mercruiser and water low in hull should help keep the boat upright? That would be far better than turtling in waves in my opinion!
It will have 2 60 gallon poly tanks mounted low that will likely almost never be filled over 1/2 so they will be adding to midship flotation: +200lbs buoyancy both tanks full, +960 empty, +600 half full.

Any thoughts/opinions/comments on this would be appreciated.

 

[IslandExplorer]

While all the ceiling is out I took some pictures of how the windshield appears to be attached by a row of rivets for its leading two edges and a single stainless screw through the aluminum at each rear corner. Not sure if the rivets hold the actual windshield frame itself down or maybe a track that the frame slides onto or something.

 

[IslandExplorer]

And finally- the build begins. Decided to go with 2x10's as a cheap simple solution to quickly and securely raise cockpit deck height while also boxing in the mammoth tanks. This layout will have the tanks nice and low on hull for stability. Putting in a 2' by about 5' piece of 3/4 down each side to bed the tanks. Wish I had the time and money to go all aluminum or fully seal all the wood but necessity calls for an expedited build. All the timber so far is fir so should last a while hopefully. Planning to keep her covered as much as possible. In any case, so glad to finally be constructing instead of destructing. More pictures will follow as the cockpit takes shape.

 

[1975oday22]

looking good so far.... cant wait to see it more complete. cheers

 

[Moserkr]

Looks good, that will make for a nice platform and walkway. If unsealed, make it easy on yourself to get to so you can seal it. Once covered up in a marine environment it will definitely mold, even though it will probably take many years to actually rot. Even one coat of anything to seal it would be better than nothing.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Looks good, that will make for a nice platform and walkway. If unsealed, make it easy on yourself to get to so you can seal it. Once covered up in a marine environment it will definitely mold, even though it will probably take many years to actually rot. Even one coat of anything to seal it would be better than nothing.

Thanks, and you're definitely right. I am planning to paint it as I go along, just not yet. Hoping to get it mostly cut and fit together then paint as much as I can. Mold definitely sucks big time so probably will use some Kilz or something on it in subfloor areas. Hoping to rig up some kind of passive solar powered bilge and subfloor vent (in addition to the ones that get switched on before starting) eventually for it to help keep the boat's wood and styrofoam and whatnot drier down there.

looking good so far.... cant wait to see it more complete. cheers

Thanks, and me too, I am absolutely dying to get back on the water. This baby is going to splash soon!

 

[ejnichol]

Is pressure treated wood not a good option with aluminum contact?

 

[Moserkr]

Is pressure treated wood not a good option with aluminum contact?

Pressure treated wood will interact with the aluminum hull and destroy it.

 

[havoc_squad]

Pressure treated wood will interact with the aluminum hull and destroy it.

This is because the old method of making pressure treated wood with arsenic or other highly toxic chemicals is banned in the US and likely most places in the world.

They use copper based chemical compounds to treat the wood instead of that highly toxic stuff.

It reacts strongly when in contact with different metals such as aluminum and steel.

This is why boats that used pressure treated wood before the ban didn't have this issue.

 

[IslandExplorer]

That's right on! It'd be better to have these douglas fir beams rot out in however many years than have the salt copper pressure treated wood slowly but surely self destruct the hull! It really is a shame that all the people-huggers just had to "improve" pressure treated wood. The good old mildly deadly arsenic actually is the way to go! Heard taking it away was one of those shoot yourself in the foot safety ideas someone cooked up thinking that the risk of rare occurrences of someone who doesn't know not to burn it in a camp fire and mildly exposes themselves to arsenic outweighs the wonderful advantages of wood that doesn't rot while also being compatible with other common materials. Can't have any natural selection anymore I guess! lol