1973 starcraft ss restore in progress

[Watermann]

A 90 would be a good match up for the 18' SS. I'm not sure of the year change over for HP ratings but 90 HP at the prop would be ample for such a light boat. I guess it also depends on what your plans are for the boat too.

 

[jbcurt00]

Prop to crank HP rating was in the 80s.... 1982~84.

90 should do fine. The 88spl has T&T? The 90 doesn't? The 88 would be my 1st pick.

 

[GA_Boater]

I always heard the odd HP rated motors were actually at the next full HP range. 88=90, 48=50 and so on. Is it true - I ain't got a clue? :doh:

 

[pckeen]

Sorry for the late reply - but i've been away. You'll be fine with a 90 on that. I went from a 115hp Johnson on an 18' Starcraft Holiday to a 90hp Yamaha. The boat is rated for a 120hp. The 90 moves the boat just fine.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

hoping to get back at it here shortly , put a little bling on last night and built a rack to let it down on , as i will be in and out many times getting fuel tank / foam / and deck in . gonna take a couple weeks to chase the elusive walleye and then try get to work on it for a few weeks. ill let ya all know how my rack works out .

 

[Watermann]

Sorta looks like bunks but without the trailer, it should be easier working on the insides with the boat lower to the ground. :thumb:

I like the decal, where did you order it from?

 

[crankbait cowboy]

yep, my thinking also h20 , a bit lower to get in and out of and seems pretty sturdy also. the decals i ordered on line from redlinegraphics.com

 

[crankbait cowboy]

advise needed! thinking of getting something done here in the next few weeks and thinking ahead , a couple questions i got for those that have gone before me , are how much 1 inch and 2 inch foam may i need to foam under the deck of the 18 ft ss / what adhesive recs may you all have for nautalex vinyl / and am going with a large flange 3/16 x 1 inch grip blind rivet for securing the deck, but wondering if ss or all aluminum is the preferred method? thanks

 

[Watermann]

For the foam it depends on how you're planning to lay it in the hull on how much you'll need. It's best to buy a couple sheets of 2" and start laying it in and buy more as needed. I just used the wellwood contact cement for my vinyl. On the LF rivets I used all AL and length will depend on the thickness of the decking. You don't want the rivets to be too long, 1" would be for 3/4" decking.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

thanks water , got 5/8 decking so undesided if 3/4 length is enough or should go with 1 inch rivets

 

[Watermann]

5/8" = .625 + the ribs .090 = .715 and then the vinyl which isn't much, maybe .010 for a total thickness of .725 which right in the middle of the rivet grip range I would use so they get nice and tight would be the grip range .625 - .875. You don't want to be pulling the rivet down much beyond it's lower grip range, they just don't seem to get as tight and the mandrel breaks off oddly too.

The next size up is the .876 - 1.00 which is well beyond the thickness of your material so you would have to be pulling the mandrel a good distance beyond it's intended range maybe causing it to break prematurely and leaving a jagged end sticking out on the mandrel.

Take a look here where I get my rivets online. The shipping is high but the rivet prices are low so make an order for everything you think you'll need.

http://rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

 

[Grandad]

am going with a large flange 3/16 x 1 inch grip blind rivet for securing the deck, but wondering if ss or all aluminum is the preferred method? thanks

The original aluminum rivets on my deck were just standard pop rivet head diameter. They were still tight. Have you considered how you'll smooth the deck before adding the Nautolex. I made sure that mine were slightly recessed by countersinking only slightly, then filling the dimples before covering. A broad head may be difficult to conceal/cover and you don't want any bumps that will cause premature wear of the Nautolex. - Grandad

 

[crankbait cowboy]

Thanks h20 and gdad. Was planning on securing deck 1 st then vinyl overtop. As dad said was planning to counter sink into wood but with large flange rivets then putty all rivet areas and splices with a wood filler and sanding deck before installing vinyl. Sound like a decent plan or am I going the wrong direction here. Yeah that is some crazy shipping charge, any idea what else I may need waterman..? Thanks

 

[Watermann]

You'll need rivets but maybe not in the quantities they have to offer, (100). You also have to rivet the side panels to the support shelf but you can use the same LF rivets you get for the decking. When I ordered I got an assortment of solids and blinds, counter sunk heads, regular heads in a couple different lengths, I also needed a couple hundred 5/32" for the cabin and gunnels. So that's why I shopped there but you may be able to find what you need at Amazon.

Remember you wont have to worry about countersinking all of the rivets, the ones around the edges are behind the side panels, only the ones out in the ply seams will be seen or walked on. I'm not so sure how well wood putty stuff will hold up or even stick very long to AL, I would hate to have it come loose under there and be a lump. I saw where a guy had used a sharp forstner bit to make the counter sink, then used his left over gluvit to fill the voids and a bondo type rubber spreader to work it in. Once the gluvit cured it was sanded smooth.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

well, ive been away from the project to long. cold in northern mn, but thinking of getting er in a shed installing the fuel tank, flotation and deck. hopefully get a start on it in next 10 days or so and put some time in before santa shows up. ill be looking for some advice from all you fine craftmen in the near future. thanks

 

[dozerII]

Good to see you back cc, will be following along on the completion.

 

[pckeen]

Brave man - I'm just North of you - and it's chilly in the shed at this time of year.

 

[Watermann]

Good to see you back at it CC. If you're installing a below deck fuel tank then my advice is to not cover the rivets holding the deck down with the vinyl, even with a deck plate over the connections. I didn't cover my rivets and neither did SC at the factory. Our work boat is a monster $100+k Northriver jet boat all welded AL and they used screws with exposed heads to hold the vinyl covered deck down. If a guy ever has to do below deck repairs you'll regret having covered the fasteners.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

im hearing you waterman, thanks

 

[crankbait cowboy]

Got my rivets, thanks h20. Haven't got a start yet but bear with me, hoping to get after it next week or maybe after xmas gotta find some ambition here soon ,