1973 Silverline Tri-Hull restoration

Woodonglass

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You will be building a bulkhead in your stringer system that will span from port to starboard underneath the helm section where the windshield and the steering wheel is. This IS a critical are in that it must be supported well so that the center section of the windshield is square and plumb which will allow proper alignment for the center section of the windshield to open and close properly. That portion as well as all sections of the cap are glass tabbed to the deck. Hope this helps
 

Rickmerrill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 13, 2014
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Normally the deck around the edges of the hull is "floating", just tabbed from the top of the deck to the hull and then extend the deck glass beyond that. Just wondering why you also want to get something under the deck to support it. Not a challenge question, just wondering.
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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Normally the deck around the edges of the hull is "floating", just tabbed from the top of the deck to the hull and then extend the deck glass beyond that. Just wondering why you also want to get something under the deck to support it. Not a challenge question, just wondering.
Well I was not really sure if the deck needed support underneath or not. This is my first time working with fiberglass so I tend to think like a carpenter and not a boat builder, lol. It makes me nervous thinking about all that space under the deck. So it should be fine to just tab it in to the side of hull? Thanks for your input
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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If you haven't seen this link you should take a look...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms[/URL]
Yes i have read through that post a bit. How smooth do fillets need to be. Mine have little dimples. I did use a spoon dipped in acetone to smooth out. But still were not perfect.
 

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Cooper_Stillwater

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If you haven't seen this link you should take a look...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms[/URL]
Yes i have read through that post a bit. How smooth do fillets need to be. Mine have little dimples. I did use a spoon dipped in acetone to smooth out. But still were not perfect.
 

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Woodonglass

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Uhmm yeah you'll prolly need you do a bit of sanding on those to smooth em out when you lay the CSM and Fabric the fillets need to be fairly smooth. On trick is to put the PB in ziploc bag then cut off one corner and squeeze it out like a pastry bag. You'll get a more uniform distribution of the PB and make it easier to keep your fillets more uniform with less ridges. A bondo spreader will also help with final cleanup. Better uniformity means less sanding.:D
 

Rickmerrill

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Ok, thanks for the answer. Yeah, Woodonglass' decks, stringers and transoms is the bomb. Bet I've read it 20 times and each new phase I reach I refer back again and again and keep finding things I missed.
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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I used angle grinder with 35 grit flap wheel, worked very well except corners where 2 horizontals meet. Tabbed in a small woven test piece and it laid in real nice. Hopefully I can get the stringers completely glassed in in next few days
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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Stringers glassed. More bubbles than expected. Just need to grind them out I suppose. I used roving, 1708 over top, then roving.
 

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Cooper_Stillwater

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Csm on top and bottom. Doing dry run with deck. Still need to glass bow piece and make 2 little awkward pieces for the front area
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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Little awkward pieces go where those earmuffs are.
 

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Cooper_Stillwater

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Also drilled the limber holes and made a tube out of 1708. I waxed a 3/4" pvc pipe, saturated the 1708 then rolled it on the pvc. Waited for it to setup then put pvc in a vise. Gripped the 1708 and twisted it off pipe. Cut into 3" lengths and PB them in
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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.....
 

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Cooper_Stillwater

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I heard that pvc will bond with polyester resin with good prep of the pipe, but thought I would experiment with this
 

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Rickmerrill

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Great idea on making your own tubes! Since most of my rot started from the poorly protected bulkhead drain holes I decided to go a little overboard. I bought a sample pack of tubes from an antenna manufacturer but I like your idea better. Here is what I got for $15 with shipping:
 

Cooper_Stillwater

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Great idea on making your own tubes! Since most of my rot started from the poorly protected bulkhead drain holes I decided to go a little overboard. I bought a sample pack of tubes from an antenna manufacturer but I like your idea better. Here is what I got for $15 with shipping:
Thanks! what are those antenna tubes made out of?
 
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