1972 Grew SS245

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
Anyone have any information on these boats. Also known as a Slickcraft SS245 in the US. Wife bought at auction with trailer by mistake for $500. I’m new to boat ownership but somewhat mechanically inclined. TUFM-21C engine so 225hp Chevy with OMC Electric shift stringer outdrive. It’s winterized and covered so I’m just trying to gather as much information as possible over the winter to see if it’s worth diving into in the spring.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,540
Welcome a aboard

Issue with any older fiberglass boat is rot
Issue with OMC is they have been out of business for decades

Only you can answer if the boat is worth it to you
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,818
Your location ?----Do a complete inspection of this boat before spending any beer tokens.------Perhaps it has water logged foam under the floor.-----It is nearly 50 years old and there could be many things wrong with it.
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
Bay of Quinte, Ontario, Canada. Have stripped everything out of the boat ie toilet, water tanks, etc. No spongy parts in floor or anywhere else and hull and transom seems sound. Always operated in fresh water. Looks like a lot of farmer fixes (no offence) to farmers. I operate a 72 year old Farmall Cub tractor and a 30 year old Massey Ferguson lawn tractor to mow my lawn with no issues. It goes to the landfill when it’s absolutely toast. Not planning on a restoration but would like to get it in the water running. Looking for a like minded individual who may be willing to offer some advice keeping a piece of history going without a ridiculous expense.
Thanks for your replies. Lots of questions coming in the future.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
A 50yr old 24ft w rotted stringers & transom will take considerable effort, work, time & money....

For a boat that'd worth less then 1/2 the money you have in it, plus your time & labor free and any engine expense....
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
A 50yr old 24ft w rotted stringers & transom will take considerable effort, work, time & money....

For a boat that'd worth less then 1/2 the money you have in it, plus your time & labor free and any engine expense....
Interesting. Paid $500 for boat and trailer. Let’s say less than half is $200. Already been offered $1500 for the trailer. Maybe parting out would be the best option.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,540
Interesting. Paid $500 for boat and trailer. Let’s say less than half is $200. Already been offered $1500 for the trailer. Maybe parting out would be the best option.
I would part out in a heartbeat
 

salvageyard saviour

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Messages
164
Don't know if that cover is "lipstick on a pig " but don't give up on it yet.

Check the stringers! Try to remove the lag bolts holding the mounts to stringers. If they just spin, you have rot.

Personally I love boats like that. That electric shift will have people talking at the ramp. Just saw one worse looking than yours sell for $2700 here in SE Michigan.

If you have the time and eBay knowledge, those OMC parts are worth a fortune. The heads from the Chevy could be $500 also.

Good luck.
 

salvageyard saviour

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Messages
164
Okay, maybe 300. They're not double humps but a 71 225 hp SBC shouldn't be hard to get a few dollars from.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,540
Okay, maybe 300. They're not double humps but a 71 225 hp SBC shouldn't be hard to get a few dollars from.
To each their own. A 52 year old marine motor would have lots of rust in the passages

Nothing special about the marine heads. They are just truck parts
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
Don't know if that cover is "lipstick on a pig " but don't give up on it yet.

Check the stringers! Try to remove the lag bolts holding the mounts to stringers. If they just spin, you have rot.

Personally I love boats like that. That electric shift will have people talking at the ramp. Just saw one worse looking than yours sell for $2700 here in SE Michigan.

If you have the time and eBay knowledge, those OMC parts are worth a fortune. The heads from the Chevy could be $500 also.

Good luck.
Thanks for your input. The wife is not ready to give up on it yet and since it’s hers we’ll inspect more closely. Was talking to a boat guy at a party last night who has experience with the boat and knows the previous owner. He believes parting it out would be the wrong move. So I guess we’ll carry-on.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
I had a few customers with the exact boat engine combination. Down here in Louisiana the salt water use took a toll on the engine/drives. However the hulls held up. With fresh water use the the engine /drive is probably still usable. The biggest problem with any drive system is the owner’s neglect.
Get a new set of genuine Mallory points & condenser and if the fuel system is good as well as the fluids in the drive it should be good for a test run.
Back it down in the launch where the drive is submerged and check if it will over heat.
 

mvn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
204
Had a very similar model back in the 80's. Set it up for salmon fishing on Lake Ontario. Back in the days of paper chart sonar and LORAN C navigation! Great, solid boat in the rough water. No major issues from what I recall. Only one shift coil went bad. I had the same engine and put in a GM HEI ignition system eliminating the points. Rotted stringers was its ultimate demise.

Mark
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
I had a few customers with the exact boat engine combination. Down here in Louisiana the salt water use took a toll on the engine/drives. However the hulls held up. With fresh water use the the engine /drive is probably still usable. The biggest problem with any drive system is the owner’s neglect.
Get a new set of genuine Mallory points & condenser and if the fuel system is good as well as the fluids in the drive it should be good for a test run.
Back it down in the launch where the drive is submerged and check if it will over heat.
Engine oil is clean. Intermediate fluid is clean. Upper sterndrive fluid is clean. Lower sterndrive fluid is a milkshake. Tilt quadrant is missing so probably issue with tilt motor or relay. Water hoses from intermediate to engine disconnected and capped with hose connection on trunion left open. Water pickup on bottom of hull to provide engine cooling. Some sort of mod? Looks like some work to do to figure this all out.

326795A1-FFEF-4C7D-84F8-679EAD244B31.jpeg
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,818
That was a factory unit to run / flush off a garden hose.-----Cap it off with bits from your local hardware / CTC store.
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
That was a factory unit to run / flush off a garden hose.-----Cap it off with bits from your local hardware / CTC store.
Since the outdrive is no longer providing water to the engine because it’s been disconnected and capped I thought this may have been left open to relieve water pressure built up by the impeller.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,290
Obviously the original owner converted to a crankshaft driven raw water pump. The flush cap needs to be left off so that water can circulate through the drive to cool the gear oil. Just change the oil in the lower, you can use automatic transmission fluid as a substitute.
Resealing the lower takes some special tools so it is best to leave it as it is.
 

Ezepeze

Cadet
Joined
Oct 21, 2022
Messages
10
Obviously the original owner converted to a crankshaft driven raw water pump. The flush cap needs to be left off so that water can circulate through the drive to cool the gear oil. Just change the oil in the lower, you can use automatic transmission fluid as a substitute.
Resealing the lower takes some special tools so it is best to leave it as it is.
Thanks Kenny. All makes perfect sense.
 
Top