1972 Evinrude 50hp selectric

dmeckley12

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I'm having issues finding good electrical diagrams showing where wires are supposed to go on the terminal block, for a 1972 Evinrude 50hp selectric.
 

racerone

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Just to add ----your control box and motor must have that yellow plug.-----And 12 volts is only needed to crank it over and provide power for shifting.-----The magneto produces the spart and does not use 12 volts to do that.
 

dmeckley12

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Thanks for the diagram. My outboard seems to not producing a spark. I originally replaced the rectifier, because I found frayed wires. Still no spark. I replaced the stator, CDI, and both coils. Still no spark. I read out the rectifier, and all wires show continuity no matter which way I have the black lead. Any other recommendations would be much appreciated.
 

racerone

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Disconnect black wire with yellow stripe at the CDI / powerpack.----Test for spark.
 

dmeckley12

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Disconnect black wire with yellow stripe at the CDI / powerpack.----Test for spark.
I just ordered the rectifier today. I should have it by Tuesday. Do I need to wait for that before I test for spark when the black and yellow wire is disconnected form the CD?
 

F_R

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The rectifier has absolutely nothing to do with producing spark.
 

dmeckley12

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I removed the black and yellow wire from the CDI. It has spark. I put the plugs in, and it wants to start but still no go.
 

racerone

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If I picked up a 1972 outboard motor for cheap ??----I would tear it down and do a complete evaluation before spending any beer tokens for parts.----First post the actual compression values here.-------Is your battery top notch / load tested?----Is the starter in top condition ??----Does the motor shift properly?----All easy things that can be checked without any coins spent!!
 

dmeckley12

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Well compression is good and the motor runs. Only when I manually open and feather the carburators. The controls are very stiff to move.
 

racerone

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Remove sparkplugs.-----Turn key on.-----Put control in forward.------Turn flywheel with socket and ratchet.----Should shift to neutral after about one turn.----Put control in reverse.-----Should be in reverse after about 2 turns.----Yes a good unit shift that easy !
 

dmeckley12

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I haven't tested the shifting yet, I am out and about. But how do I keep it idling in neutral. As of know I have to manually run the carburator controls, while turning both idle needles to find where it will idle by itself?
 

racerone

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See post #9-----I started working on outboards BEFORE your motor was made.-----But it is your motor to work on and learn as you go.
 

jimmbo

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Remove sparkplugs.-----Turn key on.-----Put control in forward.------Turn flywheel with socket and ratchet.----Should shift to neutral after about one turn.----Put control in reverse.-----Should be in reverse after about 2 turns.----Yes a good unit shift that easy !
Shouldn't it remain in Forward, as no power is going to the Neutral Solenoid
 

racerone

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When motor is NOT RUNNING it will be in forward !!----Oil pressure is used to shift this thing.----With 12 volts applied ( key turned to on ) to neutral solenoid , green wire , oil is directed to shift to neutral.----When 12 volts is applied to green and blue wire it goes into reverse.-----But the motor must be turned as clearly indicated earlier.---That develops oil pressure!----Sorry----To me these hydro electric shift units are very , very simple.
 

dmeckley12

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I put a socket on the flywheel and turned it as directed in post #13. I don't see anything moving other than the prop.
 

racerone

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Gearcase must be full of oil ( type-C ) for electric shift.---- The shift solenoids are very secretive.----They are inside the gearcase and in the oil.------Find the shift wires going into the lower unit.---You can apply power there to bypass the shift switch and wiring.------It might be wise to get the shift sorted out.----Finding a shop to work on that might be hard and if they will , it will cost lots of beer tokens.
 
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