1972 Chrysler 85, Tolletson carburetor tuning

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May 28, 2011
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61
Hi,
I have a 1972 Chrysler outboard 857HD. It's a 2 stroke, I rebuilt the carbs last year and then put the boat away. I'm getting back to it now. The problem I'm having is there is a lot of blue smoke in gear and idle. I don't see a fuel mix screw adjustment. Am I missing it? If there isn't one, how do I set the mix?
It has good compression, about 126 to 129.
Carbs are Tolletson WB9B.
Thanks
 
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May 28, 2011
Messages
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Ok, I fell pretty dumb right now. I see it. Now I remember messing with it last year.
Thank you.
Here's a pic anyway.
 

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racerone

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No need to " mess " with these .---Just adjust them according to how the motor reacts.-----Right at the top is the low speed mixture screw.----Set all 3 at 1-1/2 turns out from gently seated.----Adjust as needed with boat / motor idling in the water in gear.
 
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Joined
May 28, 2011
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I have a 1972 Chrysler 85HP, 857HDoutboard with Tolletson WB9B carbs.
I rebuilt the carbs last year, got it running and put it away. I'm starting on it again now.
I've been chasing my tail for a couple of days trying to get it to run right.

I think I need to first set the timing. I have a marker on the block and there are two timing marks on on the "flywheel". One is 0, other is 36 degrees.
Do I just set it to 36 degrees, or is there another number? And that is with it in gear and full throttle?
More on idle and carb mix screw later.
Thank you again

Edit: It's set to 36 now and runs really bad. Should it be 30 degrees?. How do I figure out the 30 mark?
 
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topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
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That link I posted is called a "link n sync".....it gives an orderly method of setting up the carbs and timing.....I would follow that post to the letter in the order given. It sets up the engine to achieve good idle and full rated RPM. (y) To find 30 degrees you can get a new timing sticker from ebay, part# 37-F474387-1....about 7 bucks shipped.
 
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I'm going to start with the sticker.
I was trying to follow the video by Frank Acampora, but I think I don't know enough to be able to fully understand what's going on. Trying to learn and not get too frustrated.
I appreciate the help!
Thanks.
 

topgun3690

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That link I posted is probably the most important one on this forum......it's not a video and is easier to follow......ten steps to success. I keep a printed copy in my factory manual for easy reference. My manual says to set timing at 32 degrees.....the 30 degree setting came about to compensate for the crappy fuel we have now......36 is way too advanced. Some even use 28.
 

Nordin

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Jun 12, 2010
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These engines are really easy to time.
As it has battery feed ignition system with points (Magna Power CD system or regular auto style ignition with condenser and points).
To find 28 and 30 dgr BTDC you can count how many tooth you have on the flywheel. Divide it with 360 and multiply with 28.
Now you know how many tooth to the left of 0 mark you have 28 dgr.
Do the same for 30 dgr. You can check the 36 dgr mark the same way if you want.
To time you first check that the timing plate is right adjusted.
Use a screwdriver and find the TDC for the top piston.
If timing plate is right adjusted the large (middle) line at the timing plate should line up with the 0 mark at the flywheel.
If not adjust it.
With all plugs out and grounded, throttle at WOT and keyswitch at ON (run) position turn the flywheel slow clockwise.
The spark at top plug should appear at 28 or 30 dgr mark.
Adjust the timing at the tower shaft with the slotted screw with the stop nut.
BTW There a lot of threads at this forum with "how to set the timing".
I have posted about this many times, more then 10 times I think.
 
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Well, I timed it to 30 degrees, set the carbs to one and a half turn out and it won't start and idle. It really wants to but not happening.
Before at timing to 36, it would idle, but of course it ran very poorly.
I'm wondering if there's something else I need to look at?
Thanks again.
 

Nordin

Commander
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Sounds really odd it would not start and idle timed at 30 dgr BTDC!
Have you done the timing at top cylinder and at WOT?
Check that the distributor is adjusted right to the flywheel.
Set the throttle at idle (lowest setting) and pull off the throttle rod from the throttle cam.
Check with a screw driver in the top cylinder by turning the flywheel CW and find the TDC for the piston.
At TDC the 0 mark at flywheel should line up with the large mark at the timing plate AND the curved line at the distributor pully should line up with the flywheel outer rim.
If mark at timing plate do not line up with 0 mark, check the flywheel key.
If curved line do not line up with the flywheel rim , loose the distributor and readjust the timing belt and distributor pully.
The arrrow at the pully should point perpendicular to the flywheel, then the curved line should line up perfect to the flywheel.
 

jerryjerry05

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Possible the intake side's got bad gaskets on one or more port covers??
Set it where it runs and then take a can of starting fluid and spray around the intake side of the motor. That includes the bases of the carbs and the port covers and anywhere it might suck air??
If the spraying makes a difference?? then trace it down and replace the seals.
One TINY!!! backfire,cough, stutter can blow a port cover gasket.
 
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I timed it a #1 30 degrees, WOT and the distributer is aligned properly.
All my experience with engines is with cars, but I was thinking a vacuum leak also.
Just took a closer look and I can see silicon on the intake mating surfaces. I'll need to replace those gaskets.
I'll do some Google searching for the parts, but if someone knows where to get them, please add a link here.
Motor is a 1972 Chrysler, 85 HP, 857HD.
Thank you again.
 
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Joined
May 28, 2011
Messages
61
Found them through pine lake parts. Always great to talk to those folks.
Its Sierra # 18-0855 and

Chrysler 85159 F85159 Intake Manifold Gasket​


After this, I'll need to replace the prop shaft seals. Looks like the Exxon Valdez came through here.
 
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There, I fixed it................ What ?! It still leaks, but I don't understand.............Said the previous owner.

New gaskets are on the way.
 

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I have the gaskets and the mating surfaces are clean. Two question......
One, is there a torque spec and sequence for the intake bolts.
Two, should I use a sealant on the gaskets. I almost always use "Right Stuff" on almost everything. My concern is it is not fuel safe and as far as I know, no gasket maker type of sealant is fuel safe.
Thanks again.
 
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